My Chevy 350 doesn't start. New dist cap, coil, plugs, wires, rotor, module. New carb. New wiring harness. It turns at a pretty efficient rate but nothing fires.
Chevy 350
- Thread starter 72FJoy
- Start date
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air, spark, gas. its one of those
Was any work done to it previous to this problem? And yes, you need those three basic mediums, air,spark and fuel. Good luck
- Thread starter
- #5
Fuel...when I manually pull the accelerator I see fuel dripping into the carb (shouldn't it be spraying?) Compression...it starts after a little bit. Spark...ditto from the last one. I've always been having some issues with the starting. It sits for a day and it has a hard time coming around and then finally it starts right up. Now, it doesn't even want to budge. I tried and tried a couple of days ago and nothing. The next morning I pumped the gas pedal a couple of times and it started right up. It runs sort of strange after that too....kind of choking when accelerating. Maybe fuel?
inkpot
SILVER Star
Howdy! What year engine, what kind of carb? Electric or manual choke? Smogged or desmogged? John
fuel filter or fuel pump.
Disconnect the line that feeds off the pump to the carb, stick the hose in a coffee can and have someone turn over the ignition. You should have a steady stream of fuel. If not either you fuel pump is bad or you filter is clogged.
I hope you put a new fuel filter on when you installed the new carb.
Disconnect the line that feeds off the pump to the carb, stick the hose in a coffee can and have someone turn over the ignition. You should have a steady stream of fuel. If not either you fuel pump is bad or you filter is clogged.
I hope you put a new fuel filter on when you installed the new carb.
Check your float level and fuel pressure. If you have to, install a small inline fuel gauge just before the carb. It's a great diagnostic tool.
Be careful, because on a lot of these gauges gasoline will dissolve the plastic 'lens'. The one on my pickup is frosted now, but fortunately it can still be read. (Homer Simpson probably designed it.)
If you have a secondary float (Holley 4bbls have them, while Edelbrocks don't) then be sure to check that as well. Sometimes the secondary float sticks closed, and a Holly 4-bbl should be set up so the secondaries are cracked open a tiny bit. This is to prevent fuel stagnation and overheating. Edelbrocks are immune to this problem.
You said the fuel dribbles out of the squirter instead of being jetted out in a stream. This suggests that your accelerator pump may not be getting fuel (possibly dirt or a torn rubber check valve) or the carb may be getting so hot underneath that the fuel is being boiled out of the accelerator pump. Pump the carb ten times and see if the condition changes towards the end.
Be careful, because on a lot of these gauges gasoline will dissolve the plastic 'lens'. The one on my pickup is frosted now, but fortunately it can still be read. (Homer Simpson probably designed it.)
If you have a secondary float (Holley 4bbls have them, while Edelbrocks don't) then be sure to check that as well. Sometimes the secondary float sticks closed, and a Holly 4-bbl should be set up so the secondaries are cracked open a tiny bit. This is to prevent fuel stagnation and overheating. Edelbrocks are immune to this problem.
You said the fuel dribbles out of the squirter instead of being jetted out in a stream. This suggests that your accelerator pump may not be getting fuel (possibly dirt or a torn rubber check valve) or the carb may be getting so hot underneath that the fuel is being boiled out of the accelerator pump. Pump the carb ten times and see if the condition changes towards the end.
Had same problem on chevy v8 in 76 fj40. Replaced wires, coil, fuel filter, plugs.... turned out the problem was the ground from the battery to the frame wasn't grounded enough due to corrosion between the ground wire and the frame. Cleaned it up and the engine worked great. It had previously turned ok but no spark. Turned over even better after the cleaning. Good luck!
- Thread starter
- #11
Ok this might sound funny but my battery is grounded to the bolt on the fuel pump. When I installed a entirely new wire harness I put the neg side of the battery on the fuel pump bolt where I "believe" it was before I replaced the wiring.
I would ground the battery to the frame. take a wire brush and clean the area real well and bolt it up. There is a spot already on the frame for the connection.
