Checking Valve Clearances

[Rookie2]

My rig's running well right now thanks to alot of the help/information from this forum.. so thanks. But I've got some pretty loud chatter from my values and thought I'd look into checking the valve clearances. I've read through the procedure in the FSM and searched some here to see that this appears to be a low banana deal. But I've got a few questions:

1) As far as procedure (keeping in mind this is a DD).., I guess pretty much have to remove the valve cover, check the clearances, re-install valve cover with new gasket and order shims for valves out of tolerance, then remove again and change out?

2) Where would one suggest getting the SST's to do the shim removal (if required).

3) Necessary to drain the coolant?

4) Any boobie traps out there that I'm missing?

Thanks for the help.

Rookie2

 

[cruiserman]

Check them when the rig is cold, meaning let it sit over night. Mixing and matching shims is a way to save money, but you have to pull the shims out to see what size they are (versus using a feeler gauge to check the clearances). I wouldn't bother with a new valve cover gasket. You don't need to drain the coolant.

Forgot to add that I didn't use the SST to pull the shims. I just pulled the camshafts. A strong magnet is helpful like one of the telescoping ones you can get at Sears.

 

[landtank]

This is on my to-do list as well. I've noticed that when the engine is completely up to temp the clatter is more noticable. Luckily my daughters car has just passed inspection an we are now a 3 car family which will help with this sort of time consuming adjustment since I can leave the truck down without impacting my work.

 

[RavenTai]

I have all the bits to do this also but have not done it yet, the valve cover gasket is a huge rubber o-ring like packing and looks like it would be OK to reuse for the time between checking and changing the shims (if needed) , put the new one on for the final close up, get new spark plug tube seals and pcv vale and more importantly the grommet

I ordered seals for the TB and intake manifolds also, plan on cleaning the TB and intake manifolds at the same time

 

[cruiserman]

You don't need spark plug tube seals unless you're pulling the head, and even then probably not. The TB and intake gasket material is metal. The valve cover gasket is definitely reusable.

People here sure spend a lot of money on gaskets .

 

[RavenTai]

You don't need spark plug tube seals unless you're pulling the head, and even then probably not. The TB and intake gasket material is metal. The valve cover gasket is definitely reusable.

People here sure spend a lot of money on gaskets .

my spark plug tube seals are seaping oil, I have read here that that is fairly common, why would you have to replace them with the head and not the valve cover? they are in the valve cover



as for the intake gaskets I woudl rather not put it together and have to pull it apart for a leak they were not expensive

 

[robbie]

I would disagree with you cruiserman. I think if the vechicle has 30-40 k miles it might be ok. all the trucks I have seen (which is a lot) have needed the gasket as well as the spark plug seals. The gaskets get hard and delevlop cracks, the spark plug seals get hard and will not seal properly and create vaccum leaks as well as leak oil. Maybe you have had some luck with these seals, I would personally change them out at or over 100k miles. later robbie

 

[Rookie2]

I just pulled the camshafts.

Ooo... yeah, I was hoping not to have to do that the first time around. The FSM had one to many "be carefuls" when removing the camshafts.

The part I'm a little fuzzy on is the procedure for removing the shims. The FSM shows a tong shaped plier that raps around the camshaft, and a screw driver type pry bar to get inside the notch on the valve to remove the shim. I'm curious what the mechanical attachment here is. Are you just prying and popping the shim out of the valve? And what is the tong shaped SST doing for you?

Are these tools available at most Auto stores or are they "special".

Sorry, for all the little questions. Even kind of irritated me to re-read it.

Thanks again,
Rookie2

 

[robbie]

The tools are special. Ben here at the shop tried the snap on ones and it was too thick to work. I got mine from Toyota. It was spendy but then I do this a lot. IF number 6 on the back side of the cam is out of spec's you will have to remove the cams as there is no other way unless you remove the engine. You may be able to make a tool that will work but it will take trail and error. Yes you have to cam the puck down to remove the shim. later robbie

 

[cruiserman]

Whatever floats your boat. It's your money.

Robbie has the SSTs since he does a lot of 1fzfe motor work. It's not a big deal to pull the camshafts. Just need to follow the manual.

 

[Rookie2]

If that's what I've got to do, then I'll do it. But surely these aren't only two options out there (#1-Puchase the SST's, #2-Pull the Camshafts). So what's everybody else doing, or going to do?

Maybe I need to talk to C'dan about getting a bag of shims, just in case some need to be changed out, that way I wouldn't have to remove the camshafts twice.


Rookie2

 

[Beowulf]

Rookie2,

I suggest checking the valve clearances and IF one or more needs adjusting then take it to a trusted mechanic that has adjusted the valves on one of these engines. Find someone like Robbie that has the SST and the shim set if you can. Wait till you see the prices on those shims.

-B-

 

[RavenTai]

R2 I plan to just check them, if they are good (fairly good chance) I close it up and all done no problem, if any need adjustment I'll close it up and gather tools/parts needed

 

[landtoy80]

I checked my valves at 210,000 mi. No adjustments needed
I did have to replace the sparkplug tube seals as they were so hard I had to wack the valve cover to get it off.

You may as well clean the intake chamber while you have everything apart.

Look in the FSM and get all the seals you need. It shows you wich ones need to be replaced.

Seals are cheap, time is $$$. WHen you reuse a seal and it leaks it cost time (time = $$$)

Forgetting to install a seal = more work and fowl language