Cheapest source for a koyo rad (1 Viewer)

[masterfab23]

So i went to the local stealership of janesville and they tried to tell me that they could get me a koyo rad for 525 bucks! doesnt sound right to me i thought they were half the price of oem? Does anyone know a cheaper source. I have a 96 but want a rad for a 93 since there 3 core brass, will the koyo for a 93 be 3 core brass as well?

 

[BirfMark]

1993 - 1994 Toyota Landcruiser KOYO Radiator C1917

Use the search function - this has been beat to death lately.

 

[wspastorbryan]

Ebay is good, just make sure it's a Koyo.

 

[masterfab23]

Go part is out of stock for up to 2 weeks and how can i know im buying a genuine koyo radiator

 

[-Spike-]

I just bought one on ebay from radiatorspot for ~$205+$~$15 shipping. Koyo.

Also, someone I trust has lately informed me that the aluminum may be better because modern antifreeze doesn't play well with brass/copper.

 

[Flank]

So i went to the local stealership of janesville and they tried to tell me that they could get me a koyo rad for 525 bucks! doesnt sound right to me i thought they were half the price of oem? Does anyone know a cheaper source. I have a 96 but want a rad for a 93 since there 3 core brass, will the koyo for a 93 be 3 core brass as well?

Try this exercise in dealing with your dealership... Ask them not what their price is, but what the Toyota LIST price is... I learned from my dealership locally here: that wholesale a 2kw starter is about $185, that list it is about $250, and that their selling price is $340 - because they can get it. It is normal for the dealerships to mark up from national list price. They said "we don't even mark it up as much as XY dealership across town...".
I had asked the parts manager what the secret handshake was for getting parts at wholesale price for TLCA members and local LC club chapter members, or would they prefer I mail ordered all my parts and took my business out of state. They now give me wholesale. When in doubt, call Dan or Beno and skip the local if they are screwing you. At least my local was very up front when they realized I would be ordering parts with some frequency.

 

[TX Cruiser]

The Koyo A1917 is 3 row plastic aluminum, the C1917 is 3 row copper/brass, thus the A&C prefixes. A 2 row A1918 should work fine since it's not hot in Wi. I'd go aluminum over copper/brass every day of the week.

I don't believe Koyo is making the C1917 anymore. The ad is most likely old stock they want to unload.

 

[masterfab23]

Thanks for the info tx cruiser probly go with an aluminum one

 

[TX Cruiser]

You're welcome. I don't understand the fuss about it at all. I took out a 3 row copper/brass, put in a 2 row aluminum and it seems to work better. Not that there was anything wrong with the 3 row, but a newer radiator is cleaner. Granted, I'm not too concerned about prices and availability, as I sell radiators (only in my territory). My concern is how much air flow I can get, how clean my condenser is, and how well my fan clutch operates. But I'm an a/c guy. Same principle though.

I don't hear of anyone switching to a micro-tube, parallel flow condenser when the a/c doesn't work well at a stop light. They add another fan! Same sort of argument as a 2 v 3 row, unless the vehicle is used in extreme conditions and extreme scenarios.

Leaks are a different issue though. In my mind, an upgrade is anything that will produce a better delta T.

 

[AFinn]

(hijack on)

TX cruiser, so, is there a better condensor that could be made to fit our rigs? i assume it would take having new lines and the such made to work. but honestly, if one knew what he was doing, could this be done? would it work that much better?

(hijack off)

 

[TX Cruiser]

At the present moment, I know of no direct bolt in, but American Condensers has said they will quit manufacturing tube and fin condensers, and move to micro tube designs for all applications. I'm sure it would make a difference, more surface area equals more heat dissipation. Our condensers could be a lot better than stock. To start, it would help a lot if they weren't black. I'm sure the capacity would change, and it would require less oil and refrigerant with a newer design.

Lines are not hard to adapt if you know what to do and can do it. Dimensions matter. Most condensers today are block style fittings like ours. Intake and discharge points are important when considering a replacement. Ours are about a half inch apart height wise, on opposing sides.

The drier relocation is another that makes me laugh. It's not going to be stock anyway... There are two rubber hoses to and from the compressor manifold (both low and high) and it's not a problem. That high side hose sees the highest pressure in the entire system.

Run all the a/c stuff down the passenger side if you want, it doesn't matter how the lines are run, the size will. Low fat, high skinny.