...I got fired up looking at the roll on paint sites (and foam brush sites) and thought, how hard could that be? Well, it would have been a lot easier had I stuck w/something closer to the original color. Live and learn. I'm making progress (slowly). Going from a faded, chipped blue to white on an 84' Cruiser.
Cheap paint...too late to turn back now...
- Thread starter tomrayjr
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Looks real good.
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- #3
Trying to create a classic '10ft' paint job. I went w/white because I thought it would best hide any imperfections I may leave...
how much did that cost you would it not have been just as cheap to go to maaco for 200 dollars
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- #5
I'm only $30 in right now (1 quart of paint, foam brushes, mineral spirits, 600 grit wet sandpaper) but I suspect I'll need at least 2 more quarts (another $16 bucks). I had it priced at a Maaco equivalent here in town for $299, but I have gone that route with an old Mustang and it started flaking within a year. My job won't look great, but neither would theirs.
It wasn't a financial decision, it was just something I wanted to try after reading about it.
It wasn't a financial decision, it was just something I wanted to try after reading about it.
I think it looks pretty good. How many coats is on it in the pic? Wet sanding between coats?
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- #7
What is supposed to be the beauty of the foam brush over the roller is less sanding. I'm at 4 coats right now and haven't wet sanded yet (I've been wet sanding the old areas before painting). I haven't covered the entire Cruiser. When I do, I'll wet sand and maybe apply another coat or two. I'm using some 'poor man's paint job' technique on stylusscustoms.com.
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- #9
They have you thin the paint out VERY thin so it's pretty runny (doesn't lay down thick coats). My biggest challenge is keeping it from dripping down the sides.
Anything I do is going to look better than the way it was. The blue paint was faded to approximately 4 different shades of blue and I had sanded and put primer on any surface rust I found (Cruiser is from Cali, very little REAL rust, but humidity here in Bama is not good for surface rust).
Pulling off lights and trim and such, I have found zero rust behind anything. The only bad spot on this cruiser was around the rear drivers side window, which I'm simply sanding and covering now but, in the long run, I need to pull that window out and do it right.
Anything I do is going to look better than the way it was. The blue paint was faded to approximately 4 different shades of blue and I had sanded and put primer on any surface rust I found (Cruiser is from Cali, very little REAL rust, but humidity here in Bama is not good for surface rust).
Pulling off lights and trim and such, I have found zero rust behind anything. The only bad spot on this cruiser was around the rear drivers side window, which I'm simply sanding and covering now but, in the long run, I need to pull that window out and do it right.
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- #10
Not done, but driving it anyway...
...got tired of it sitting in the garage. Looks better than it did faded blue w/primer spots but I need a few more coats in areas and to scratch off some paint where paint got under my tape.
I have not wetsanded, buffed, or sprayed any clear yet.
...got tired of it sitting in the garage. Looks better than it did faded blue w/primer spots but I need a few more coats in areas and to scratch off some paint where paint got under my tape.
I have not wetsanded, buffed, or sprayed any clear yet.
JohnnyC
Long ago TLCA# 2231
what color white is it and what brand paint?
that actually came out way better then you were making it sound! great job
- Thread starter
- #14
I used Rustoleum Gloss White...
...bought two quarts (either 7592 or 7792, don't have it here in front of me). I also bought 2 rattle cans of gloss white, which does a better job of getting into grooves/hard to brush places. It's so dang bright in the sun that the imperfections are hard to notice.
I still have to do the jams and a better job around the doors and windows, but I'll just do that at my leisure. It's all about detailing now. I wasn't even going to do the jams but it looks like crap when the doors are open.
...bought two quarts (either 7592 or 7792, don't have it here in front of me). I also bought 2 rattle cans of gloss white, which does a better job of getting into grooves/hard to brush places. It's so dang bright in the sun that the imperfections are hard to notice.
I still have to do the jams and a better job around the doors and windows, but I'll just do that at my leisure. It's all about detailing now. I wasn't even going to do the jams but it looks like crap when the doors are open.
- Thread starter
- #15
Are the Landcruiser emblems on the side held on by a screw like the tailgate '4wd' emblem appears to be? I need to take those emblems off and paint because they were hard to tape around. I didn't want to pry on it too hard and break it to find out.
Mine were taped on. There were "pins" on the back side of the emblem to locate them.
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- #17
Thanks. I'll be prying those off then.
Looks good. Nice work for so cheap. I'm looking for options for my 40. Its just a trail rig so I don't want to drop a lot of money on paint. What part of bama are you from? I'm in Huntsville.
10 foot rule - no problem, just let it get a little dirty and it will look great, that is what white paint is for, all 3 of my cars are white, wouldn't have it any other way
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- #20
I'm in Huntsville as well. I'm still not finished thanks to the weather turning colder again but once it's warm I'll knock it out (do the jams, better job around the glass, etc...). I still haven't even sanded and/or buffed it.
I have a 77 Bronco leaking fluids all over my garage so I have been working on that more than anything.
I have a 77 Bronco leaking fluids all over my garage so I have been working on that more than anything.
