chassis straightening?

[sodafeld1]

Has any one done their own chassis straighten?
I was under the impression my rear axle was bent. Discovered my rear left wheel bearing getting stuck to the axle housing stub. I put on a straight rear axle. (removed shaft, diff,etc..) But there is still a banana bend from the rear axle to the front axle, of 5mm. Not much, barely noticeable, slight pull to the left bent side. Tyres wear evenly with coopers at3 and rotations.
In hindsight upon purchase, the bullbar had a good dent on the left.
Makes sense that if I ran a centre line down the chassis and measured diagonally from cross member 1 and 2, I would find the culprit bend there. On level ground.
Probably the most common chassis damage from head on.

Has anyone bent a chasiss back? Did you take the tub off? Engine off? Pics? big ask...learning, everything else is ace.

 

[SNLC]

Ya we have done it, on a frame straightening machine.

That is the only way I would do it.

Cheers

 

[sodafeld1]

Ya we have done it, on a frame straightening machine.

That is the only way I would do it.

Cheers

Did you take the engine out?

 

[SNLC]

Did you take the engine out?

Nope, vehicle can be 100% assembled depending on how bad the damage is.

Cheers

 

[sodafeld1]

well that cheers me up! I was disappointed that it wasn't perfect. Makes me realise how many wonky cars must be on the road. I shall go speak to a local. 5mm bend over 3.5m length isn't too bad for a tractor, but not optimal. The main pain is removing the friction welded rear bearing and the slight pull to the left.
How much for interest sake do you charge for a little straighten in the States? Not that I am going to another continent. Probably need to have a look, find exactly where it is and charge accordlingly to pay off the equipment and time,overheads, wages..
Thanks man.

 

[roscoFJ73]

slight pull to the left bent side

7* series always pull to the left on Australian cambered roads but it depends on how bad it is. My mechanic used jacks and a little heat to straighten chassis'. You can buy cheap hydraulic jacks these days. Maybe not top quality, but ok for occasional home workshop use.

 

[sodafeld1]

I heard about the pull to the left in Oz, which is much more preferable to the right!
I shall get around to it someday, not too much of a worry. Don't have level ground, so I imagine I have to jack it level then make some sort of level template to plumbob and mark the cross member junction with the chassis intersection to measure diagonally..which is kind of a pain in the butt. Quicker for me to make/find a bearing splitter and change rear bearing more frequent for now. Looking at an old ubolt.. It is not much of a bend, 5mm over 3.5m. Maybe when I recover from the effort of pulling the diff and axle housing, replace brake lines yadda yadda. Not this week.

Keep an eye for those chassis jacks, maybe dismantle the engine hoist temporarily and use the jack from that..

 

[roscoFJ73]

I heard about the pull to the left in Oz

Its because the steering and suspension is designed for flat roads. I think most roads here are about 50mm higher in the centre. You notice it most when you are behind a motorcycle. They are rarely perpendicular to the road. The fat tyres on my triumph wear prematurely on the RH side. At $420 ea rear+ $320 ea front and lasting 15000klms, it gets a bit expensive.

 

[sodafeld1]

That is noticeable tyre wear. I am probably being pedantic..

 

[SNLC]

$1000 last time we had one done.

Cruisers from the factory have slightly more caster (.5*) on the crown side of the road to deal with what you guys are discussing. Not 100% on that for old 70-series but it is true over here on 80-series and newer.

Cheers

 

[sodafeld1]

$1000 last time we had one done.

Cruisers from the factory have slightly more caster (.5*) on the crown side of the road to deal with what you guys are discussing. Not 100% on that for old 70-series but it is true over here on 80-series and newer.

Cheers

noted, that's about $1400aud.
I think I shall live with it on the good troopy, whilst I get the 2nd troopy wreck in the right direction. The frame on that one needs heaps of work, going to pull the tub to access the number 2 cross member perches, weld the frame best I can. Get it level and straight as possible, measure every way.

I shall look at the rear bearing if it has friction welded again in about 5000km on the good troopy. At least I have a spare hub to have cleaned with some racers pre installed.