changing rear shocks. Question???

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srkpaco said:
Anthony and Trunk Monkey I have searched and read some of the answers to this question but need some clearification so don't get all angry.:mad:
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Some members here get all bent out of shape and PO'd when they see certain questions and respond in a rude manner. I would suggest those people just chill out a little and simply not respond rather than come across as angry and even belligerent at times. Forums exist for a reason and questions will be repeated. If it bothers you that much when it happens, don't open the thread!

To the op, I'm about to do the same job myself, so I appreciate the question. Just because it's been asked before doesn't mean I don't like hearing current knowledge and practices before I delve into a project.
 
Anthony, you get an apple from the teacher for finding that so quick. YEA!

Look dude, sorry i did not search google for the answer I searched the IH8MUD web site and it didn't answer all my questions and with kids, work and life going on sometimes I don't have time to read 35 posts to find an answer and search every engine on the web, that is why I am a member of this site.

This is a free site and I try to respect it and use it accordingly and not disrespect or clog up the site with stupid questions. I am not a mechanic nor do I work for Toyota so I will do my best to tread lightly on what I post!

Everyone has there own way of how they get, process and use information, my way is different than your I like to ask questions and talk to people not sit in front of the computer and search for things. If that is so bad start your own site and charge people to be members then you can try to control how people deal with certain issues.

Man all we are doing here is discussing things about vehicles we like.
 
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Getting the 22mm Flex Head Gearwrench takes longer than the process ! That tool is THE KEY to easy removal. In my case, it took maybe five minutes per side with that wrench and a big pair of channel lock pliers. Gentle on the shock housing with the channel locks though.

Oh, and soak the top nut with PB Blaster or your favorite penetrating oil ahead of time.

It really isn't a difficult job.......provided you have the proper tools.
 
srkpaco said:
Everyone has there own way of how they get, process and use information, my way is different than your I like to ask questions and talk to people not sit in front of the computer and search for things. If that is so bad start your own site and charge people to be members then you can try to control how people deal with certain issues.
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Conversely the attitude of "I don't care if this has been posted 10 times before, I want to ask again and be spoon fed" doesn't come across so well either. You're sitting in front of the computer to post, how is searching any different? You've got questions - great - but it's forum courtesy, not just here, to search first and learn from those who have gone before. Still got questions after your search, by all means post up. I love seeing posts like - "Hey, I found the thread about drilling holes to change your shocks, that was great, thanks to the poster. However, drilling holes scares me, so I'm going about it the traditional way and noticed some posts about different types of wrenches, can someone help me with the right one?"

Better yet - bumping the original thread with that question. Keeps all the information in one thread! Even easier searching! In the end, no big deal, but I know peeps appreciate being recognized for their threads and keeping the same question from coming up again and again. Enough of forum etiquette, back to tech.

super90 said:
Gentle on the shock housing with the channel locks though.
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I crushed the crap out of the housing to get a good flat grip, they're going in the trash anyway.
 
It is usually best for one not to stumble into a sandbox and start kicking up sand before getting to know how the folks that having been playing there for a loooong time like to go about it. It's a surefire way to upset the harmony of a community.

Everyone here has lots of priorities they are dealing with. For the most part, they are happy to help out, but admittedly, there are certain topics that come up again and again and it is understandable that certain constituents tire of rehashing them.

All that said, of all the forums I belong to, this is one of, if not the most helpful, civilized, friendly and respectful of each other.
 
super90 said:
It is usually best for one not to stumble into a sandbox and start kicking up sand before getting to know how the folks that having been playing there for a loooong time like to go about it. It's a surefire way to upset the harmony of a community.

Everyone here has lots of priorities they are dealing with. For the most part, they are happy to help out, but admittedly, there are certain topics that come up again and again and it is understandable that certain constituents tire of rehashing them.

All that said, of all the forums I belong to, this is one of, if not the most helpful, civilized, friendly and respectful of each other.
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Big giant Thankagiving Amen!
This is a great forum and the earlier pioneers of the forum are fantastic in keeping the place grow.
 
Drilling holes in a perfectly good floor of a really expensive and nice vehicle seems crazy to me and sounds like a good way for bad things to happen years down the road.

I plan on keeping my LC forever, drilling is not an option for me.
 
If your truck is originally from TX and not the rust belt, just soak the top nuts in PB Blaster, get the Flexhead gear wrench and get under there and dive it.
 
Thanks super90, my truck was bought brand new in Texas and has never lived out of state. Gonna get the wrench and get it knocked out this next weekend.
 
Trunk Monkey said:
Also from that post you can see I did mine with a normal 22mm wrench, just wedged it in there and rotated the shock body to remove it instead of undoing the nut.
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I did mine with a 7/8ths, haha. Still worked fine using the open ended side.
 
I removed my own shocks with a standard 22mm wrench (not
A gear/flex headed). Used a ratchet strap wrapped around the body of the shock and tied to the frame to keep the lower tight from spinning. First shock took awhile to figure out second one went much faster.
 
A pair of these,

2013-07-01-23-35-44.webp

a well-sealed hole in the floor, an electric impact wrench with a 22mm deep socket, and the shocks are off in literally 30 seconds. :lol:

2013-07-01-23-35-44.webp
 
I had to preserve the stock shocks to swap onto my totalled 100 to give back to the insurance company. So I used a rubber strap wrench. It worked well.

I've swapped shock 5 times on 3 different 100s. I would recommend drilling the holes through the floor. It makes the job about as easy as the front. I assume you could do it without even taking the rear wheels off.
 
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