Changing out rear leaf springs on 40's/45's
- Thread starter melvinjo
- Start date
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ginmtb
'74 FJ40 - my first!
Being a newb at this, I can only give so much input, but I have changed my leaf springs. I'm a safety professional so I took the following precautions:
- used multiple jack stands - 4 in all - 2 under the frame, 2 to support the axle
- placed removed tires under the car in the event somehow the car fell off the stands (I live in earthquake country)
- have a ratcheting strap to be able to pull the leaf springs into place - mine were a really tight fit and I could not push them in by myself. Plus trying to hold them in place and push is pretty difficult. They're not light so if one were to fall on you it wouldn't feel very good
- use lots of grease - friction in this case is not your friend...
As for installation, make sure the leaf springs are pointed in the correct direction. On the OMEs it isn't clearly apparent - ask me how I know.
Don't forget the torque wrench. Some nuts don't need to be tightened much.
Anyhow hope that helps. Good luck with it and be safe!
- used multiple jack stands - 4 in all - 2 under the frame, 2 to support the axle
- placed removed tires under the car in the event somehow the car fell off the stands (I live in earthquake country)
- have a ratcheting strap to be able to pull the leaf springs into place - mine were a really tight fit and I could not push them in by myself. Plus trying to hold them in place and push is pretty difficult. They're not light so if one were to fall on you it wouldn't feel very good
- use lots of grease - friction in this case is not your friend...
As for installation, make sure the leaf springs are pointed in the correct direction. On the OMEs it isn't clearly apparent - ask me how I know.
Don't forget the torque wrench. Some nuts don't need to be tightened much.
Anyhow hope that helps. Good luck with it and be safe!
Bear Lake Cruiser
SILVER Star
x2 on above post. They won't fly apart. there is a spot where they sit naturally. Jack the vehicle off the ground in rear. jackstand under frame. Prep ubolts and other nuts and bolts with PB blaster. loosen ubolts a little at a time switching from one to the other and back again. As it comes apart control the axle with a floor jack under the brake drum. Really pretty easy.
Maybe this guy lives in the rust belt - no location given. You might need a torch to soften the bushings to get the front pin or shackles apart. Without a torch, you risk the temptation of pounding on threaded ends with a hammer, which is bad. For this, a cutting torch beats a propane torch, but use what you have or can get. Another tip: don't fully tighten one side and then do the other - leave all things a bit loose until it's all under control and in place. Fully tightening one side and then doing the other can make alignment of the axle to the springs a lot harder.
Bear Lake Cruiser
SILVER Star
Yep, if all rusted up...that is what makes a relatively easy job hard. Many will say to not reuse your U Bolts. I always have except once. But remember to check the torque on them a few days after and again a few weeks. They can loosen as the new suspension settles in.
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
One spring at a time. Jack stand under the frame just in front of the front spring hanger. Leave tires on. Block tires from moving. Other spring will keep axle from rotating. Use a ratchet strap on the springs by the shackles. Use a Port-A-Power to press the shackle out of the bushings. Ratchet strap will keep the spring from spreading apart. Use the Port-A-Power to press the front bushing. Use a bolt or some type of pin to press it out once flush.
I see no reason for having axle on jacks and half the vehicle on jack stands when it doesn't need to be.
I see no reason for having axle on jacks and half the vehicle on jack stands when it doesn't need to be.
Bear Lake Cruiser
SILVER Star
Very good point!
Being a newb at this, I can only give so much input, but I have changed my leaf springs. I'm a safety professional so I took the following precautions:
- used multiple jack stands - 4 in all - 2 under the frame, 2 to support the axle
- placed removed tires under the car in the event somehow the car fell off the stands (I live in earthquake country)
- have a ratcheting strap to be able to pull the leaf springs into place - mine were a really tight fit and I could not push them in by myself. Plus trying to hold them in place and push is pretty difficult. They're not light so if one were to fall on you it wouldn't feel very good
- use lots of grease - friction in this case is not your friend...
As for installation, make sure the leaf springs are pointed in the correct direction. On the OMEs it isn't clearly apparent - ask me how I know.
Don't forget the torque wrench. Some nuts don't need to be tightened much.
Anyhow hope that helps. Good luck with it and be safe!
OK , I will bite.. How do you know the correct direction on OME ???
ginmtb
'74 FJ40 - my first!
Yup that is correct - you just don't get instructions indicating that. And sometimes when you call OME tech support you will get the "arrow points forward" answer like we assumed. Doh!
ginmtb
'74 FJ40 - my first!
That's a good call where were you when I did mine? lol
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
Just this week I tried pulling springs on a LWB cruiser. Shackles were installed backwards. I was able to remove the shackles using what I call axle straps. Just short straps with one end designed wrap around the axle and hook back to strap. Other end to the car hauler. With tension I was able to beat the shackles out. On the fixed pin end I failed using my 4 ton port-a-power. Frame deflected but pin wouldn't move in the bushing. This is at a junk yard. I had a plan B which included 10 ton-a-power, long two inch strap to hold the frame together and pipe wrench to twist the pin. But probably don't need a ten leaf spring pack with my bad back. My 65's original springs are worn but my back like the comfy ride.
Mine were really easy (no rust). I think the best advice you got above was to leave everything loose on BOTH SIDES and you won't need to pull and tug with straps or porta powers etc (unless the new springs were made incorrectly.) Don't try to install the forward end of the springs with the rubber bushings both installed. It won't fit. Install the bushing that is on the inside edge, but wait until you have the end of the spring in the forward shackle, then push the remaining bushing in through the big hole that the mounting bolt goes through. Put some grease on all the bushings (some people say silicone grease and others say lithium). Tighten each pair of springs gradually, alternating the tightening so both sides are tightened at roughly the same time. That avoids the twisting and binding that many complain of.
- Thread starter
- #15
I ended up just supporting the axle the side I was working on with a jack stand, then removed the shock, axle plate, then the rear shackle bolt. I then let the spring lay down supported by only the front bolt. There was no tension on the spring. The front bolt was bitch to remove. Even with heating, it took awhile but finally came out . I have the new spring now all in place, but all bolts are loose in prep for the other side
One i get the other side all done, Ill tighten all bolts
By the way, the EMU 2.5 springs are HEAVY, About 100 pds each!
One i get the other side all done, Ill tighten all bolts
By the way, the EMU 2.5 springs are HEAVY, About 100 pds each!
- Thread starter
- #16
I ended up just supporting the axle on the side I was working on with a jack stand, then removed the shock, axle plate, then the rear shackle bolt. I then let the spring lay down supported by only the front bolt. There was no tension on the spring. The front bolt was bitch to remove. Even with heating, it took awhile but finally came out . I have the new spring now all in place, but all bolts are loose in prep for the other side
One i get the other side all done, Ill tighten all bolts
By the way, the EMU 2.5 springs are HEAVY, About 100 pds each!
One i get the other side all done, Ill tighten all bolts
By the way, the EMU 2.5 springs are HEAVY, About 100 pds each!
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
Port-a-power and straps were for removing the springs. I didn't mention anything about installing springs because that always been the easy part of replacing springs/bushings. Personally I use heat as a last resort because what it can do to metal. If possible I replace anything I applied heat to, but that's just me. I also hate smell of burnt rubber.
Main reason for my first post was really about safety.
