Changing Brake Pads Gotcha's? (1 Viewer)

[joltman]

I'm about to attempt my first solo brake pad change on my 2018 URJ-200. I've looked at/felt the rotors and they aren't scored. I wasn't planning on changing the brake fluid (it's been 30k miles since it was changed). Are there any concerns I need to know of regarding the compressions of the brake pistons? I was planning on opening the brake fluid reservoir to let the excess fluid back up into it. However, the resi is at the MAX line now. Will compressing the pistons cause any damage to the master brake cylinder? Or should I plan to replace the fluid as well? Is there a tool I should use for that? I've seen the Jafffa Adventures YouTube video on pad replacement, and it looks easy enough. I've also seen the video on using TechStream to flush. Should I do this as part of my maintenance? I was planning on upgrading to DOT4 brake fluid if I had to do it. Thanks for the assist!

 

[CharlieS]

Nothing tricky about it unless you have seized pistons or corrosion on sliders. Everything else is very straightforward. If you're only doing pads, it is a super easy job. You don't need to flush or even bleed unless you open lines or bleeders. If you need to take any fluid out of the master cylinder, a large syringe or turkey baster are useful tools. I like to have a spare hardware kit on hand in case anything needs to be replaced, but it isn't necessary. If you replace rear rotors, the parking brake adds additional work, and getting it adjusted correctly is a bit of a pain.

 

[joltman]

Nothing tricky about it unless you have seized pistons or corrosion on sliders. Everything else is very straightforward. If you're only doing pads, it is a super easy job. You don't need to flush or even bleed unless you open lines or bleeders. If you need to take any fluid out of the master cylinder, a large syringe or turkey baster are useful tools. I like to have a spare hardware kit on hand in case anything needs to be replaced, but it isn't necessary. If you replace rear rotors, the parking brake adds additional work, and getting it adjusted correctly is a bit of a pain.

So it sounds like there's no concern pushing fluid back up into the reservoir? It won't damage the master cylinder? And I'll have to get a large syringe to take extra fluid out.

 

[Sandroad]

You won’t get much brake fluid back in the reservoir. Maybe a couple turkey basters worth. Just watch it after each set of pads. My rotors were fine on the outside, but pitted and scored on the inside. So check the insides too. Where I live, new hardware front and rear is needed along with the pads and I needed to do light cleanup on the calipers where the pads slide in. Otherwise, very easy job. Be safe, hold the truck up securely.

 

[AnyMal]

So it sounds like there's no concern pushing fluid back up into the reservoir? It won't damage the master cylinder? And I'll have to get a large syringe to take extra fluid out.

As long as the truck is not running no. Only gotcha is the bleed starts at RL not RR as you may imagine due to how the lines are routed.

BTW my rear caliper line nuts were completely seized and I chewed them up quite a bit. They will have to be replaced one day.

 

[joltman]

I've got the front pads on. No real issue except the Lisle quad piston compression tool I purchased didn't fully compress the pistons. A C clamp fixed that easily.

I opened the "brand new" box from the dealership and I see this:

The pad says Toyota on it, and the box is the same part number that was installed 2 years ago. Are these legit pads? The fact that have a brand name on them makes me question whether these are genuine. Not to mention the box was ripped and taped up. Any help/thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

[joltman]

Whelp, if I had just proceeded I would have noticed that the old pads are green too. The also say ADVICS. False alarm!

 

[32cls6speedmt]

advics is part of aisin parts. They are genuine.

 

[04UZJ100]

Advics makes some of the highest quality braking systems in the automotive world.