Changed Sway Bar bushings at 175K...WOW! (1 Viewer)

[yuji]

There have been a lot of PNs posted, can somebody help me figure out what I need for each piece?

OP listed;
94184-61001 Front Link Nut 2
90179-08062 Rear Link Nut 2
90385-11021 Stabilizer Bar Bushing 2
90560-10275 Stabilizer Bar Bushing Spacer 2
48820-60032 Front Link Kit 2

It seems like he edited in the missing parts into the original post, so this includes the missing space/bushing.

The OEM cushions are: 48817-30010 and you'd need 8 of them.
This nut is not in the OPs post but listed mid way through the post; 94180-41000........$4.28 - Nut

And lastly mentioned are more bushings.
48815-60140........$9.63/each


Is the final part count for both fronts and rears?

94184-61001 Front Link Nut 2
90179-08062 Rear Link Nut 2
90385-11021 Stabilizer Bar Bushing 2
90560-10275 Stabilizer Bar Bushing Spacer 2
48820-60032 Front Link Kit 2
48817-30010 Cushions x8 OR Poly Energy Suspension 9.8105R ($13)

94180-41000 <-- x 4? - not sure of this nut mentioned in later post.
48815-60140........$9.63/each <-- x4?


I'm going to replace my rear springs / debug front brake noise soon and figure this is a perfect time to do this!

 

[petrotk40]

this thread is better for the part #'s

https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/537225-parts-list-refurb-your-sway-bars.html

 

[yuji]

this thread is better for the part #'s

https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/537225-parts-list-refurb-your-sway-bars.html

Thank you! I'll take it over there.

 

[virafp]

Steering rack

Have you done this yet? Considering buying this kit.

I have not done this yet. My suspension shop said the labor would be about $125-150, and it eliminates the sloppy steering.

 

[bctlex]

Was just curious how those energy suspension bushing are after a few years of use? I am trying to decide between OEM vs ES.

 

[virafp]

About two weeks ago I went in and snugged everything up. The bushings look great, no issues at all.

 

[bctlex]

@virafp - thanks for the update!

 

[NicB]

Hi guys, I am looking at replacing my front bushings. The OP said they were easy to replace and he did so with the tires on the car/flat on the ground. Can I just turn the wheels to access the bushings, unbolt, replace the rubber, then bolt back up? Are these things under any load or tension? Let me know, the rubber parts are dirt cheap, seems like an easy fix.

 

[hardhat]

Hi guys, I am looking at replacing my front bushings. The OP said they were easy to replace and he did so with the tires on the car/flat on the ground. Can I just turn the wheels to access the bushings, unbolt, replace the rubber, then bolt back up? Are these things under any load or tension? Let me know, the rubber parts are dirt cheap, seems like an easy fix.

Yup, that's what i did. Careful turning the top nut without holding the base as they will likely snap, at least mine did. Not a big deal if you have the replacement link.

 

[NicB]

Yup, that's what i did. Careful turning the top nut without holding the base as they will likely snap, at least mine did. Not a big deal if you have the replacement link.

Good to know...will watch for that!

 

[gmusic]

Great information. I was complaining about this very issue (sway/diving) this week so I'll start out by inspecting the sway bushings. We have 230k on our rig, the bushings are most likely shot!

 

[blklnamru]

Dang.. this seems easy enough for me to do. I'll check mine out later tonight and might hit up toyo for parts!

Thanks!

 

[iRMX]

Great info, every bit helps. I will do the same when I tackle my OEM shocks this weekend.

 

[schaff70]

Replaced my front swway bar bushings and end links yesterday.

Just a note - the best way is to fully drop the front sway bar. Don't need to remove it, just unbolt everything to allow clearance to fit the new bushings.

The new bar bushings will have to be installed toward the outside of the torsion bar. Put enough lubricant on the bushings inside and out, slide the bracket over the top and slide it toward the inside. The bracket only goes on 1 way with a lip or edge to the outside.

Install the new end links loosely then line up the bar brackets and start threading the bolts. I always apply some anti-sieze whenever reinstalling the bolts for future ease.

Before you tighten up the bar brackets make sure your end links are inside the bar end holes - I found out the hard way one wasn't and the bar was resting on the top of the end link. I used the jack handle and a BFH to knock it loose and it fell into the hole

I also picked up a set of the poly universal end link bushings from Auto Zone for $14.

These will work, but they required a little trimming as I wasn't able to compress them enough to start threading the nut. I only had to trim less than 1/16" off of the top one in order to get the threads started.

Overall the front bushings and end links was a 2 curse word job - only because it took me a while to get the passenger side bracket bolts lined up in order to thread into the holes.

Total job without help took about 3.5 hours.

I'm going to tackle the rears with some Whiteline poly bar bushings, but while I was under the truck I found the passenger side rear shock leaking...... . I had Rancho 5000s back there and already had to replace the driver side once about 4 months ago. I'll do some reading and find another option this time.