Chains for our trucks 285/50R20

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Joined
Aug 13, 2021
Threads
43
Messages
1,074
Location
The Great PNW
Hi guys,

I'm running all season tires (they were new when I got the truck and I'm wearing them down before replacing w/ more suitable tire).
I'm running OEM 20 size tires (285/50R20) and I know that is not a popular size here, but I found products to cover the entire spectrum, so it is the type/feature not the model of the traction device.

The truck works fine for my snow needs and speeds for going skiing at the PNW resorts.
I do have some tracks boards and shovel to get out if I get stuck in the parking lot but I was thinking not pushing my luck and have a pair of chains in the trunk for just in case. I usually have some traction device in all my cars even if they are AWD and running dedicated winter tires.

[2023-02-10 - Update] We had a few days of slick ice after rain followed by freeze. You could not walk on the street. So, I said to myself what a great opportunity to test my truck systems. My neighborhood has off camber turns and steep hills. I was running above mentioned AS tires and no traction devices. Because of that stopping on the steep hill was not an option as the truck was just sledding down with the brakes applied. Off chamber curves were a no go as the truck was sliding sideways. All that was expected. What I did not expect was the traction difference the central diff lock and crawl control made. I was able to climb the steep hill provided I started on the flats, and I did not stop! [end update]

First question is choosing between the cables and chains.
I have a lot of experience with cables as chains are overkill for anything but trucks and can actually damage some cars.
But what about 200 series? I do not do off roading in the winter or deep snow forest roads. Some of the chains I tried on for fit are actually extremely nice with tight as a drum fit. They are heavier by a lot and take a bit more space but not a lot more because they fold better than cables. I like the cam style and some don't even need spiders (some do).
The cables have much nicer ride on bare pavement or hard surface snow/ice and I can run them to the max rated speed without feeling the car is coming apart due to vibration. I can also install some of the cables without moving the vehicle. Most chains require that I move the wheel at least 1/4 rotation.

Second question is what kind of chains or cables you found the most useful for use on the 200?

[Update 2023-02-10] l ended up keeping:
Security Chain Company ZT751 Super Z LT Light Truck and SUV Tire Traction Chain
with a spare set of Security Chain Company SZ1176 Tire Traction Chain Rubber Tightener
Security Chain Company Quik Grip Square Rod QG2128
with TireChain.com 39225 Truck SUV Spider Tensioner Tightener Bungee Tire Chains
For details see my posts below. [end update]

Last question, how many/which axle do you chain?

[Update 2023-02-10] For my 2013 LX and OEM size tires, the answer is rear axle only. No chains or cables that I could find will fit the fronts. There are two areas that create problems: the vertical arm from spindle to the UCA and the UCA. The vertical arm is a problem with the cables, because the cable that goes around the back of the tire holding the cross/Z cables, is rubbing on it. The arms position relative to the spindle is fixed (it si part of the spindle) so there is nothing to be done except finding a cable that has a larger diameter - could not find one, or getting wheel spacers. The chains are rubbing on the same arm and are very close to UCA. The beefier Super Z ZT751 side plates and especially the C hook are too close to the spindle arm for comfort. Z6 SZ451 cables are better in this regard. For the rear, chains or cables are fitting fine with a lot of room to spare.
That brings me to the conclusion that for OEM size tires, unless you have multiple sets of tires/wheels, running spacers, or live in a snow free area, one of the most important criteria when buying tires is snow traction for the front tires. [end update]

On my other awd's is the fronts. But on 200 I think it should be the rears first. I'm looking for only chaining one axle. Is that a problem?

Here is what I've tried for fit using my spare...

Security Chain Company Z-579 Z-Chain
They are the z style (at an angle to the thread) - good, but the fit is not so great requiring a spider that is not included with the cables - not a big issue as I can buy them separately. What I do not like is the ends of the cables that are sticking out and you are supposed to tuck under the plastic sleeves (green in the picture) not very secure.
Amazon product ASIN B001H9GQR4
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Security Chain Company SZ451 Super Z6 Cable Tire Chain
Amazon product ASIN B000HZBRSC
[Update 2020-02-10] They are z-style like the Z-579. They do come with the rubber tensioners. Spare tensioner is SZ1176. The cable disconnect is more secure and also harder to hookup. But they do feel lighter weight and the way the Z cables secures into the Y plates is not as good. They are also on the large size for my tire size, the rubber tensioners being kind of relaxed. Compare the tensioner pics with the pictures for ZT751 both installed on my tire.
This is the smallest profile chain, but it is still not fitting the front wheels because of inner cable (round around the wheel connecting the Z cables in the back) rubbing on vertical arm (from spindle to the UCA). A chain with a larger inner cable diameter is needed. The clearance between plates and the vertical spindel arm is Ok but small. The clearance between UCA and cables is good. [end update]



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Security Chain Company QG2828CAM Quik Grip V-Bar Light Truck CAM
Amazon product ASIN B00HRI5MQA
I got them in sale at 30% their cost so I posted them in classifieds before returning them; too aggressive for my use.
For my tire I need to cut 3 links from each of the two ends to make it a perfect fit, with no links flapping around. They are not suitable for dry pavement or even thin snow as they are going to damage the pavement due to the V-band claws.
The steel has a gray coating not sure if paint or just a clear coat.
Weight 14.4kg / 32lbs.

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Peerless 0232805 Auto-Trac Light Truck
Amazon product ASIN B0091RCM5Y
This is a lightweight chain even compared to the other chains listed here, so you can say it is a very light chain. The slack control system is clever, but I do not trust it being made of plastic. It also not working quite well on my size tires and the chains overall are a bit large for my tires. The plastic tighteners are loose around the wheel and can possibly scratch the wheel. They are not listed compatible for my size, but I just had to try it.
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Security Chain Company QG2128
Amazon product ASIN B00JFS9Q30
They are very similar to QG2228CAM in fit and build. The difference is that they are zinced, and the chain links are made of square wire instead of round. The links are regular oval links not twisted. Wire thickness about the same.
Weight 12.29kg / 27lbs
These have the best fit of all devices I've tried on my wheels.
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The fit in the back is great.

The fit in the front is not good. The chain is very close to the UCA and it is actually rubbing on the vertical arm of the spindle.
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For storage in my trunk, I used a Home Depot Husky 12" tool bag. They fit well. The Harbor Freight Tools Voyager 12" tool bag is larger than needed.

The cams are keeping the chain very tight, but just for insurance I also got a set of spider tensioners: TireChain.com 39225 Truck SUV Spider Tensioner Tightener Bungee Tire Chains
Amazon product ASIN B07DWP2P82
 
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The last shall be first, and first shall be last:

Last question, how many/which axle do you chain? For my use case (on-road winter ski travel) and geography (northern Oregon Cascades), I feel it necessary to be able to chain both axles. A rig that must travel in the worst on-road conditions (i.e. packed snow / freezing rain at 34 degrees F, off-camber in the hills) requires, at times, chains on all four to stay out of the ditch or off the curb. I run dedicated winter tires and am prepared with cables for all four, if/when necessary. YMMV

Second question is what kind of chains or cables you found the most useful for use on the 200?: Again, for my typical use case (on-road winter ski travel), Peerless Super Z6 cables. LC200 front axle is clearance limited. Cables have a lower profile than chains. The Peerless Super Z6 is very low profile and clears in all directions on the front axle of my rig running 275/65/R18 dedicated winter tires. For redundancy in case of breakage, and flexibility in mountings devices on either axle, I run the same device front and rear.

First question is choosing between the cables and chains: I generally prefer chains over cables for superior traction and durability. I've always selected chains on my prior trucks. However, clearance is a concern for the front axle on 200 series. Notwithstanding all the appropriate words of caution, and Toyota's own manual recommending otherwise, I choose to run very low-profile cables on all four wheels when/if necessary. The 200 is my must-perform armageddon rig!
 
This is gold! Thanks for taking the effort here.
 
Speaking from experience with that family, your first cable model is very difficult to get onto the vehicle when the tires are on the ground. There isn't a lot of spare cable to let the traction bars wrap around the contact patch, especially if you are already on snow.

I now have a set of the Z6 for my tire size and am happy with how they go on, plus got a second set of bungees in case I tear or lose one. Haven't had a chance to use them yet.. the truck did very well in the ski conditions last year on the ATs by themselves.

Plan to go with the non-V chains eventually (partly for use in really bad mud conditions) and move the cables to the front when needed, but haven't purchased.. still in the back of my mind to move up to 285/75 and want to sort that out before I buy more traction aids that are fit specific.
 
I ran the super Z cables on my 3rd gen 4Runner, front and rear. The 4R had the same caveats of “limited clearance don’t run chains in the front and use only cables on the rear”. We lived up a (small) mounting in Virginia and the road up was steep (had to stay in 1st gear or you’d stall) and had several tight switchbacks (270 degrees) and no guardrails. I drove up in 12” of snow without issue, whereas is previous slide and spun in much less snow without them. I like the Z chains because when going DOWN there was always some chain in contact with the ground, unlike many chains where they are a ladder and you can have the tires touching but the chain is not. I had stock tire size and didn’t have any contact issues with the suspension.

I have a single set of the same cables for the rear of the LC. I bought them a couple years ago when planning to drive out west through potential snow over Christmas break. Covid cancelled that trip and I’ve never used them. I have 34s and have spent a lot of time to keep them from rubbing but I’m sure if I ran cables on the front I’d contact the suspension, so no cables or chains in the front for me, but with a stock tire size I’m pretty confident the super Z low profile cables would work ok. On stock suspension you could probably run full chains on the rear but for the OPs needs I would stick with cables.

Btw if you break a cable while driving it seems like the best case scenario is smacking up a fender and the worst case would be wrapping it around a brake line or suspension component. Definitely don’t exceed the speeds recommended, and don’t run them any longer than you have to.
 
Anyone run cables with 285/70/18? i.e. 33.98 x 11.5 x 18.
 
Chains should be used on rears only. You run the risk of ripping out brake lines up front, especially if the wheel is turned.

Having chains in the front and none in the rear also puts you at risk for fishtailing/spinning as you decelerate.

Could you get away with chains up front or on all 4 wheels? Probably. But I personally wouldn't.
 
Anyone run cables with 285/70/18? i.e. 33.98 x 11.5 x 18.

I'll probably get flak for this but here's my strategy for emergency use, and to be able to legitimately? answer chain checkpoints as to whether I'm carrying chains.

As I'm on 35x12.5 tires, with somewhat competent 3PMSF rate AT tires (Toyo AT3), the goal is to never need chains. I only visit snow country for winter activities. Clearance is marginal which I think might be the crux of your question?

In the rare situation requiring chains - I'll inflate the rear airbags to ensure I don't get enough compression to worry about clearance. Then use these toy chains
Amazon product ASIN B0B8S8XFZL
They're light and easy to carry. Whereas most chains large enough for big tires cost a lot, are heavy, and take up more space. Reality is I also have a winch and recovery boards. So the situation that probably won't work well for me is extended ice?
 
I cut and pasted this from "Tire chains on a 200" Mud post p7#128-the end...
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I have cked the clearance at the mud flap area with 33.2" dia. on my rig and there is only a 1/4 inch of clearance with the mud flaps still installed and I altered my mud flaps so the 33's wouldn't rub. There is no way for me to run my chains on the front with my 33.2 dia tires. I have not tried the cables on the 33's and I don't think I will, only the 32.2" snow tires have been run with class "s" clearance cables on the front and all bets are off when a class "s" needs 1.5 inches (37mm) on the tread face at 30 mph and 1/2 inch (15mm) at the side wall static or at 30 mph.

I have found that the cables have a much narrower operating window. They do not like to be spun in reverse. I threw a cable off the front tire last weekend even after it had been inspected twice at installation and again at the next stop. I was climbing back onto the road from a wide spot and had to reverse and spun in the dry snow and the left side tire inside hook and loop unhooked. Yes, I know, I was not using the cables for there intended purpose of "on road only". I would have done the same in a flat parking lot turn around so be careful when spinning in reverse with cables. Each manufacturer may use a different attachment method so just keep checking. I have added secondary locks to all three attach points for each cable assembly.

My signature line below is up to date on minor bolt on modifications and measurements. Yes, I added the 1" wheel spacers after my my last post a while ago on limited space available on the front tires and still have stock wheels. So now after some fun testing the cables on the front of my 200LC, success. Chains are better than cables off road and cables are better than snow tires.
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Brake lines are not an issue on the front unless you throw a chain/cable and it wraps around the hub. That same damage can happen on the rear axle.

There are 5 points of possible contact on the front of the LC and 4 on the LX. I used a 3/4 inch block of wood as a go-no-go gauge.
#1&#2 -CK at the fender front and rear of the tire and minor turns.
#3-Aft tire contact on the frame at full lock turn.
#4-Ck the UCA and spring perch area (side wall bulge on the inside top of tire)
#5-Hard right turn tire tread clearance at KDSS bar (W/KDSS only).

The mfg package says what size tire they are supposed to fit not what vehicle. Try them on, ck clearance, ck clearance under load and practice putting them on.
 
I'll probably get flak for this but here's my strategy for emergency use, and to be able to legitimately? answer chain checkpoints as to whether I'm carrying chains.

As I'm on 35x12.5 tires, with somewhat competent 3PMSF rate AT tires (Toyo AT3), the goal is to never need chains. I only visit snow country for winter activities. Clearance is marginal which I think might be the crux of your question?
I'm with Teck. 3PMS ATs and airing down will get a Land Cruiser down most any plowed road. Chains have their place (and I do carry for compliance) but I've never once needed them. Tried them on one and they haven't came out of the bag since. My road hasn't been clear since late October so winter driving is 'de rigueur' for our house.

However, with the user having 20s, airing down won't be nearly as effective. We're looking for an 18+ 570 and I've been debating on what to do. I for sure will throw 17" AT3Ws on them. But I may also keep the OEM rims and go to a Nokian (or equiv) true winter tire. This might be easier for the wife to manage than airing up/down as conditions change. Trying to determine if a full-pressure low-profile winter tire will be superior to an aired down 3PMS AT.

If you're out in freezing rain chains will make a difference, but in most cases it's better to just stay at home. Bad freezing rain has poor outcomes. Offroad driving is another situation where chains can be useful, but it sounds like this question is more toward highway use.
 
I'm with Teck. 3PMS ATs and airing down will get a Land Cruiser down most any plowed road. Chains have their place (and I do carry for compliance) but I've never once needed them. Tried them on one and they haven't came out of the bag since. My road hasn't been clear since late October so winter driving is 'de rigueur' for our house.

However, with the user having 20s, airing down won't be nearly as effective. We're looking for an 18+ 570 and I've been debating on what to do. I for sure will throw 17" AT3Ws on them. But I may also keep the OEM rims and go to a Nokian (or equiv) true winter tire. This might be easier for the wife to manage than airing up/down as conditions change. Trying to determine if a full-pressure low-profile winter tire will be superior to an aired down 3PMS AT.

If you're out in freezing rain chains will make a difference, but in most cases it's better to just stay at home. Bad freezing rain has poor outcomes. Offroad driving is another situation where chains can be useful, but it sounds like this question is more toward highway use.

Good to know from someone in snow country that this is viable. I remember from my younger years going into the mountains with summer tires, RWD, even with chains, compound of the tires still matter. A lot. I'll give up some off-road capability in an AT for better cold weather performance.

Great point on airing down. I wasn't able to find a sound answer for that outside of trail driving. More surface area for sipes and packed snow in treads to find traction?

Regarding airing down, it's a trade but 35s on 20s has the same sidewall as 33s on 18s. With some advantage of more surface area with the larger overall diameter.
 
I'll probably get flak for this but here's my strategy for emergency use, and to be able to legitimately? answer chain checkpoints as to whether I'm carrying chains.

As I'm on 35x12.5 tires, with somewhat competent 3PMSF rate AT tires (Toyo AT3), the goal is to never need chains. I only visit snow country for winter activities. Clearance is marginal which I think might be the crux of your question?

In the rare situation requiring chains - I'll inflate the rear airbags to ensure I don't get enough compression to worry about clearance. Then use these toy chains
Amazon product ASIN B0B8S8XFZL
They're light and easy to carry. Whereas most chains large enough for big tires cost a lot, are heavy, and take up more space. Reality is I also have a winch and recovery boards. So the situation that probably won't work well for me is extended ice?


FYI from the reviews... (I looked at those today)

BAD-CHAINS.jpg
 
On the mountain roads it rains during the day. Then it freezes, then it snows.
The road ends up with sheet ice under the snow.
I've been stopped in some traffic and then just the grade in the road slid the whole truck sideways until it rested at the edge of the road.
Chains or cables on all 4 wheels in that stuff.

I did see these other nylon cables.

Looked interesting...

Amazon product ASIN B01NA025AK
 

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