CDL NOT WORKING?? (1 Viewer)

[Grod302]

Hello guys

Last night I installed my CDL switch and when I went to try it nothing happened...no light on the dash, no noise...nothing... also correct me if I'm wrong but when I shift the transfer case into L shouldn't the CDL light and ABS light come on in the Instrument cluster? not to mention when I shift into L and turn my FF-FR diffs Locks the lights blink but nothing happens. I am completely clueless into what could possibly be the issue. my truck runs perfect other than these issues. I guess that's what happens when you buy a truck owned buy a soccer mom from Northern VA.. clean but never been used like it was intended to. I know all these issues are not completely related to. the CDL and the FF-RR diff locks are not connected to each other and theoretically shouldn't affect each other but it's quite annoying to be honest. I know she's 20 years old but I am picky with my vehicles and I like everything to work like it should. any help with this would be really appreciated

thanks

 

[mct75]

On mine, the CDL was working fine, but the indicator switch was gummed up. I removed it (from the top of the transfer case) and cleaned it, and now the light works like it should.

 

[Grod302]

On mine, the CDL was working fine, but the indicator switch was gummed up. I removed it (from the top of the transfer case) and cleaned it, and now the light works like it should.

might have to try that. time to get under the truck and do my thing lol

 

[177Aidan]

I have the same issue, when i put it into 4LOW no light goes on for CDL or ABS. Looks like I'm crawling under there to Ill let you know if that fixes it

 

[george_tlc]

Engine off, ign switch to ON. Select L OR push in your CDL dash switch (if installed). If you have less than young hearing, get a person to listen under the vehicle for the CDL motor to cycle (takes a second or two while making its mmmrm sound, both to engage or disengage).

So, if you hear the sound but no CDL or ABS light, most likely the sensor/switch is internally 'dirty/glazed'. Either a new one (aftermarket is cheaper) or 'clean' the contacts (I have a writeup on my website, see sig).

If you have the CDL switch installed with the Pin 7 mod etc then ONLY the CDL switch will engage the CDL (L no longer performs that function).

cheers,
george.

 

[Grod302]

I have the same issue, when i put it into 4LOW no light goes on for CDL or ABS. Looks like I'm crawling under there to Ill let you know if that fixes it

Lemme know if that works! thanks

 

[Grod302]

Engine off, ign switch to ON. Select L OR push in your CDL dash switch (if installed). If you have less than young hearing, get a person to listen under the vehicle for the CDL motor to cycle (takes a second or two while making its mmmrm sound, both to engage or disengage).

So, if you hear the sound but no CDL or ABS light, most likely the sensor/switch is internally 'dirty/glazed'. Either a new one (aftermarket is cheaper) or 'clean' the contacts (I have a writeup on my website, see sig).

If you have the CDL switch installed with the Pin 7 mod etc then ONLY the CDL switch will engage the CDL (L no longer performs that function).

cheers,
george.

thanks George. I am currently reading on your website how to do it. do you have any suggestions on how to diagnose the front and rear locks?

 

[george_tlc]

F/R lockers can only engage AFTER the CDL light comes on on the dash. So you need to get that working first. Until the CDL light comes on the F/R locker lights will only flash (no engagement possible).

cheers,
george.

 

[Grod302]

F/R lockers can only engage AFTER the CDL light comes on on the dash. So you need to get that working first. Until the CDL light comes on the F/R locker lights will only flash (no engagement possible).

cheers,
george.

OH WOW!! dang dude thanks so much! that really really helped a lot! again I'm a newbie when it comes to these trucks lol.

 

[CoffeeGeek]

If you don't have someone to help you does the drivetrain bind up when turning on pevement? Another check is with it Locked jack up a tire and try to rotate it.

I had a simallar issue, turned out to be the motor magnets came loose from the housing. The CDL actuator is right next to the catalytic converter and gets excessively hot.

 

[Grod302]

well I had my girl last night get in the truck and try the cdl switch while I was under the truck and nothing... not a single noise.... what could this mean?

 

[george_tlc]

No noise means the actuator isn't operating. So, you need to figure out if the actuator is at fault or if power to it isn't getting there. I presume in your test you had the Ignition switch to 'on' and engine not running.

I also presume you've checked the appropriate fuses...

If you search this subforum for CDL actuator and similar terms you will find many threads that cover the various steps to fault find versus rehashing it all again. The search function works VERY well on mud.

cheers,
george.

 

[Grod302]

No noise means the actuator isn't operating. So, you need to figure out if the actuator is at fault or if power to it isn't getting there. I presume in your test you had the Ignition switch to 'on' and engine not running.

I also presume you've checked the appropriate fuses...

If you search this subforum for CDL actuator and similar terms you will find many threads that cover the various steps to fault find versus rehashing it all again. The search function works VERY well on mud.

cheers,
george.

yeah the ignition was "ON" and I also checked the fuse that says " DIFF" and it looks fine.

 

[Squash]

Did it work by shifting into low before you added the switch?

Did you add the switch and cut some wire/wires?

Bring it back to OEM, get into/onto dirt or dirt road and do some figure 8's in low and try to get the CDL to cycle.
Once this is affirmed add the rear locker making sure it cycles, lastly drive fairly straight and get the front involved.
Sometimes a little stump or rock can help load up the drivetrain and exercise the CDL.

Another option is to pull the sensors, short the wires and check that your CDL,RR and FF lights are lit up.

 

[Grod302]

Did it work by shifting into low before you added the switch?

Did you add the switch and cut some wire/wires?

Bring it back to OEM, get into/onto dirt or dirt road and do some figure 8's in low and try to get the CDL to cycle.
Once this is affirmed add the rear locker making sure it cycles, lastly drive fairly straight and get the front involved.
Sometimes a little stump or rock can help load up the drivetrain and exercise the CDL.

Another option is to pull the sensors, short the wires and check that your CDL,RR and FF lights are lit up.

I've used the 4L before I even installed the CDL switch and I don't see any lights on the dash however I have felt the typical 4L driving characteristics ( feels like it's binding, longer to brake etc). when I installed the CDL switch I did not cut/splice into any wires. I simply plugged it in to the harness for it. I've gotten in into some dirt roads but nothing. it's actually getting annoying quite honestly. I'm gonna see if replacing the sensors might work. otherwise I'm outta luck

 

[Grod302]

the FF and RR Lights do light up when I turn the switch/knob. but not the CDL light

 

[CoffeeGeek]

the FF and RR Lights do light up when I turn the switch/knob. but not the CDL light

Do they light up or do they flash? Flashing means it is not working.

 

[Grod302]

Do they light up or do they flash? Flashing means it is not working.

they just flash.

 

[Grod302]

so I changed the sensor in the transfer case and nothing....checked the relay in the fuse box....nothing, it's good. tried to listen to any noises from actuators, or even relays kicking in... nothing... at this point I have no clue what is going on. she works in the Low range and even did the PIN 7 mod while I had the stuff out... I'm out of options here. any help will be useful at this point

 

[CoffeeGeek]

so I changed the sensor in the transfer case and nothing....checked the relay in the fuse box....nothing, it's good. tried to listen to any noises from actuators, or even relays kicking in... nothing... at this point I have no clue what is going on. she works in the Low range and even did the PIN 7 mod while I had the stuff out... I'm out of options here. any help will be useful at this point

Trying to understand what works in low range?

If the actuator is not working and everything else in system has been confirmed to work, you are going to have to test it. Search through my posts and you will find advice on the actuators as I have also had issues.

It is possible to power the actuator with a 9v battery and physically t test if it is working. Sounds to me that you are going t have to pull it and re glue the magnets.