CDL not working. (1 Viewer)

[Safado]

[quote author=landtoy80 link=board=2;threadid=9037;start=msg78557#msg78557 date=1071981831]
I wanted to reread what the mod did to the tranny shift pattern.
[/quote]

Found it if you haven't already.

The transmission shift points move up in low range, it also downshifts earlier. It is difficult to verbalize but very noticeable.
You can check it out like this:

Shift into low range and transmission in drive. Accelerate moderately. The trans will go 1,2,3,od quite rapidly.
Stop and crawl underneath, plug the low 4 position switch back in and repeat the test. You will find that the gears hold for much longer, and when you let off the trans downshifts.

Give it a try...................

Regards....Dan

 

[landtoy80]

I wanted to set up the tranny to shift hard and soft in Low.

 

[Rich]

The result of leaving the connector on the transfer case and removing pin 7 in the connector in the side kick panel is that when in low range the transmission will upshift and downshift at lower rpms. This is appropriate and desirable as the drivetrain is producing much more torque at any given rpm when in low range. This approach maintains the factory designed shifting logic. It also reduces the stress on the tranny when shifting. It is well worth pulling pin 7 versus removing the connector on the transfer case.

 

[Safado]

[quote author=landtoy80 link=board=2;threadid=9037;start=msg78562#msg78562 date=1071982958]
I wanted to set up the tranny to shift hard and soft in Low.
[/quote]

hmmm Not sure if that would work. As I understand it the factor that changes the shifting points is the removing the tranny plug as per the old instructions. The goal of both instruction sets is to give the driver more controll over the CDL. In other words they both make it possible to shift into Low without setting the CDL. But before C-Dans instructions on the PIN 7 mod, you had the side effect of the changed shifting points. The PIN7 mod isn't to be used in conjunction with the old instruction set, but rather improve upon it. If you want to be able to do both you can, but you would have to crawl underneath and remove the tranny plug and cover it each time as per the old instructions. Not sure if that makes sense or not, but toggling the PIN7 mod wouldn't do what you want it to.

 

[landtoy80]

Toggle the tranny plug.
That is why I want to reread the whole post as I had an ideas but forgot what they were.
The memory is the second thing to go :-\

 

[Rich]

For clarity, the electronic transmission control has two sets of shift points, one set is for high range, and one set is for low range. The computer needs to sense that the transfer case is in low range in order to use the shift points for low range. If the connector is removed from the transfer case the computer will never know it is in low range, and thus the computer will fail to use the correct shift points for low range.

Removing pin 7 in the connector inside the kickpanel prevents the automatic locking of center diff in low range, without the adverse effect of preventing the computer from knowing that the transfer case is in low range.

 

[ppc]

You could put a switch inline with pin 7 to have two settings for shift points. I've thought about doing that as sometimes I like the fact the transmission doesn't snap into gear so hard. I've been on some fire roads in the mountains where I stayed in low range because of frequent situations where low is required but followed by easier sections, little or no throttle where the low shift points are more desirable going through all the gears.

I haven't heard of anyone testing the variance in shift points in conjunction with the ECT(Normal/Power) switch settings. Is there a third or forth level that could also be used in high range? To be more specific, in high range switch pin 7 to fool the transmission control module into believing it was in low and then toggle the ECT(Normal/Power) and play with all four of the permutations. I’ve never really messed with the ECT switch when I was in low range before I did the “pin 7” or “pull the plug” from the transfer modifications. Who has a lot of time on their hands?

 

[landtoy80]

PPC, has the idea I had. I don't like the hard shift in LOW when its not needed.

 

[Klunky Chris]

[quote author=Safado link=board=2;threadid=9037;start=msg78548#msg78548 date=1071980436]
Maybe I should expound a bit.

Before starting this post, I locked the CDL and tried to unlock it and it wouldn't unlock. I drove up and down the street, Reverse and Drive, re-locked, and then tried to unlock it again. Went back and forth between H and L and didn't get anywhere. Turned the truck off and on several times and tried everything again. Everything to no result. Changed out the PIN 7 mod and did it all again. Still nothing. It was only when I put the plug back in that it fnally reset. But now it seems fine, maybe one more trip down the block would have done it last time. I guess what I'm trying to say with all this...is that it took a REALLY long time to unlock.

What physically has to happen in the CD for it to lock and unlock? Could something be fouled up there? Thanks.
[/quote]

Ok... I'm joining in a bit late here but I had a thought. (scary, I know!)
Was ALL of your driving on hard pavement/concrete?
If it was, is it possible that the transfer case was only bound up because of it? I know in my 40 and 60, if you drive on hard stuff that doesn't let the wheels slip (because they need to) in turns, it can be very hard to shift out of 4WD.

could this be what was happening?

I am currently chasing a problem where my CDL doesn't seem to be engaging. The motor whirrs fine, but no CDL light on the dash. I've been looking in my Toyota manual, but don't have a handle on HOW the cdl locks yet :
I'm not sure if the 80 transfer case can have the same problem as 40's/60's.......

does this make sense to anyone???

 

[Safado]

[quote author=Rich link=board=2;threadid=9037;start=msg78578#msg78578 date=1071988528]
For clarity, the electronic transmission control has two sets of shift points, one set is for high range, and one set is for low range. The computer needs to sense that the transfer case is in low range in order to use the shift points for low range. If the connector is removed from the transfer case the computer will never know it is in low range, and thus the computer will fail to use the correct shift points for low range.

Removing pin 7 in the connector inside the kickpanel prevents the automatic locking of center diff in low range, without the adverse effect of preventing the computer from knowing that the transfer case is in low range.
[/quote]

Nicely put Rich...that's what I was trying to get across in all my babble.

PPC and LT~
Think of it this way. Pin 7 has NOTHING to do with the x-fer case using the high points vs. the low points. PIN 7 is the route that tells the x-fer case that the driver just shifted into Low and to set the CDL. The plug on the X-fer case is the one that sends the signal to use High or Low shifting points. The signal you would need to "toggle" would be on that line to the X-fer case.

Klunky-
Yes, everything I did was on pavement. I've put everything back together now, somewhat, and will test it off road this week.

 

[Riley]

Very timely discussion guys as I'm doing these same 2 mods this weekend as well.

The only problem I'm having is that I can't seem to get pin-7 out of the connector. Exactly where do I slide in my pin pick? Perhaps my dental pick is not thin/long enough?

Do I slide it in from the wire side of the housing or from the 1 of the 2 holes on the other end? ???

Years ago I used to pull pins out of these connectors, perhaps I have lost my touch.

Just about ready to cut it.

R

 

[ppc]

Safado,

I think you have a misunderstanding. The "pin 7" removal is the signal wire from the transfer case and were are intercepting it before it reaches the diff lock ECU but allowing it to still go to the transmission control module. Your suggestion doesn't allow the signal to go to either.

 

[Safado]

Yeah it was a bit of a bugger to get out...actually ended up doing it 2 ways all said and done. One way is to do it like this.

 

[Safado]

The other way I never took a picture of. But if you look down the empty slot next to Pin 7 you can see how the wire is held in place and see that you can remove the wire by hooking the little plastic piece from outside the connector and pulling the wire. Take a look at the empty slot and it should all make more sence.

 

[Safado]

[quote author=ppc link=board=2;threadid=9037;start=msg78728#msg78728 date=1072044424]
Safado,

I think you have a misunderstanding. The "pin 7" removal is the signal wire from the transfer case and were are intercepting it before it reaches the diff lock ECU but allowing it to still go to the transmission control module. Your suggestion doesn't allow the signal to go to either.
[/quote]

Sent you a PM.

 

[Beowulf]

Chris,

Kurt (Landtoy80) has posted several pics of the center diff and the locking mechanism. Do a search for more information.

-B-

 

[Safado]

Did you check the plug on the x-fer case that I told you about in my last post?

If you're going to check to see if the CDL is just having problems locking, take it on a dirst trail and rock the steering wheel back and forth a bit.

 

[Cruiserhead05]

safado,

I did get up under the truck yesterday and looked around. found alot of wire connecting to the tranny and trnasfer case, all looked fine and in place but i want to get a better look again to make sure i didnt look over anything. also i thought as soon as i put it in low the CDL should at least statr blinking like the front and rear diff indicators are doing. i'll check under the truck again and get back to you. thanks