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CDL differences.

Discussion in '80-Series Tech' started by PHAEDRUS, Dec 1, 2003.

  1. PHAEDRUS

    PHAEDRUS

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    Hey all,
    I know this has been covered ad nauseum for teh later series trucks but was out last weekend and had the same issue twice. was running with a bunch of locked and lifted 40 series in about 2' of snow nice thick wet s***e that liked to slide. well I kept up and only had to get tugged twice wich made me feel pretty good. both times the rt rear wheel dropped into a void and the cdl was not engaging the fronts at all. this was in low gear but the little cdl light on the dash was not lighting up. I am going to crawl under it this afternoon and see if I can figure it out but wanted to check and see if there are any differences between the series as far as the transfer case and where the actuator is mounted. pics would be great or the name of the fine individual who posted the write up last tiem cant seem to find it in search but recall enough of it to bluff.
    Dave
     
  2. Bradass80

    Bradass80

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    I think there is a write-up on Slee's site, repair of cdl, i don't recall which year they were working on though, may be of some help, Brad.
     
  3. PHAEDRUS

    PHAEDRUS

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    Yeah already went over that. jsut looking to see if there are any differences between the years. will put iot on the lift this afternoon and see what it is doing.
    Dave
     
  4. PHAEDRUS

    PHAEDRUS

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    ok so I crawled under and am looking at the transfer case from the front end at approx 11:00 and there is a plug and then a small cannister looking part. wich one is the actuator? teh one im touching or teh plug in front of it. if it is the cannister do you need to lower the trensfer case to remove it?
    Dave
     
  5. cruiserdan

    cruiserdan SupportingVendor Emeritus Moderator

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    Man Dave,

    Your circulation sucks, yer hands are BLUE. :flipoff2:

    Your hand is on top of the actuator.

    :cheers: D-

    Oh, the "can" is part of the actuator. It is the armature cover.
     
  6. Eduardo96FZJ80

    Eduardo96FZJ80

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    [quote author=Phaedrus link=board=2;threadid=8245;start=msg69837#msg69837 date=1070318411]
    ok so I crawled under and am looking at the transfer case from the front end at approx 11:00 and there is a plug and then a small cannister looking part. wich one is the actuator? teh one im touching or teh plug in front of it. if it is the cannister do you need to lower the trensfer case to remove it?
    Dave
    [/quote]
    Dave,
    Have you ruled out a bad electrical conection?? On occasion, mine will not engage, and I noticed that it is probably in the switch itself, If I just push on the switch again it will engage??
    Hope this helps
     
  7. PHAEDRUS

    PHAEDRUS

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    yes,
    my circulation is poor plus its cold in my shop. oh and I'm wearing gloves. yes I have ruled out bad electircal in the dash, ie when I push the button the actuator under the dash engages but no light and no motor sound under the truck.
    gotta pull that one out and test it now.
    so I crwled under and went to remove it, question is what is holding it on there. I can see three phillips bit screws holding a plate on and under that three (that I can see) appears approx 12mm bolts going into the case housing. is it the bolts to the cas housing or is it the screws holding the plate.
    Dave
     
  8. cruiserdan

    cruiserdan SupportingVendor Emeritus Moderator

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    Dave,

    There are four 8 mm bolts (12mm head) that hold the actuator on. once the bolts are out the actuator needs to come out about an inch and a quarter to clear the gear on the bottom. It is sealed to the tcase by orange FIPG (00295-01281).


    D-
     
  9. Photoman

    Photoman SILVER Star

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    Dave,
    How about pulling the actuator electrical plug first and with the switch engaged, see if you are getting power to the actuator. May save some work.
    Bill
     
  10. PHAEDRUS

    PHAEDRUS

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    planning on that in the morning, got kind of slammed towards the end of the day today and no time to test circuits. if the actuator is bad what coudl a price savy lad pick one up for. I dont trust the local stealer to check the air pressure in my tires so anyone know a decent dealer??????
    Dave
     
  11. cruiserdan

    cruiserdan SupportingVendor Emeritus Moderator

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    Not a decent one, no........ :flipoff2:


    36410-60050, list $674.11 :eek: about 500 bucks, smart shopper wise.

    D-
     
  12. PHAEDRUS

    PHAEDRUS

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    Damn youve got some hungry dogs over there.
    I was reading through the slee write up and seeing a $50 relay he was talking about replacing and thinking peice of cake but thats a bit more. hopefully will know more around lunch time.
    Dave
     
  13. cruiserdan

    cruiserdan SupportingVendor Emeritus Moderator

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    Dave,

    I may be able to get my hands on a used actuator if the original is, in fact, bad and can't be revived.



    D-
     
  14. PHAEDRUS

    PHAEDRUS

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    thanks I will post back later today or tomorrow.
    Dave
     
  15. PHAEDRUS

    PHAEDRUS

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    OK
    so I pulled the dash and rechecked the switch and the actuator on the pig. both check out showing 25.5 volts switched. so I crawl under the truck and look for the wires going in to the actuator. found two sets one slightly forward of the mounting plate (not it) and one with three wires going into the top of the actuator plate. question is is that the wires im chasing and if so how do they come out of the top?
    Dave
     
  16. cruiserdan

    cruiserdan SupportingVendor Emeritus Moderator

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    Yes, they are some of the wires you are chasing. There are two more that head around the corner. All 5 come from a common plug. They do not come out of the actuator.


    D-
     
  17. PHAEDRUS

    PHAEDRUS

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    ok then, so I need to drop teh t case down and remove the acutator to test or do you think using test probes on the wires is ok and will not introduce too much moisture into the lines? just really dont want to drop the t case unless I have to.
    Dave
     
  18. PHAEDRUS

    PHAEDRUS

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    OK I got impatient and started testing. where my finger is in the above photo has three wires green yellow and black. the green is showing a constant 3 volts and once the swithc is activated goes to 12 volts. nothing from yellow or black. regardless of switch position or t case position. the two lowe wires are green and look like extension cord wires(ie tehy are joined together) getting 3 volts from one regardless of position and 0 from the other again regardless. need some insight here as to what is normal.
    Dave
     
  19. e9999

    e9999 You want to do what...? Moderator

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  20. ppc

    ppc M Go Blue

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    Are sure you meter is not set to measure resistance? Looking at my 94 FSM I don't see any type of circuit with 25V and assume they are somewhat similar. The 3V reading might indicate some failure related to diodes or feedback through the lamp circuit. Give us some more details such as readings with the key on or off, center lock switch on/off. Does the 91/92 automatically engage when shifted to low range?
     
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