Caster plates combined with correction bushings?

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I have a Dobinsons lift (c59-309/308 springs), which was supposed to be 4", but actually ended up being 6".

My steering is quite loose and requires a lot of input. With my caster at +1.3, I'm thinking that's the culprit. I have the 5 deg plates and wondering if there's any issue with adding the correction bushings as well? Anyone else have this combo that can share their experience?

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devo

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I don’t know the answer but it may not be recommended?

Who’s plates did you use? I first used Dobinsons with my big lift and it didn’t help at all!
If your not using the @landtank plates already, give him a shout.
Maybe Delta arms are in your future?




devo
 

landtank

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How did you determine that you are at 6” of lift? It looks like 4” to me and your caster numbers support that.

My plates correct for 7 degrees so if your Dobinson plates are indeed 5 degrees my plates would add 2 degrees to what you have.
 
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How did you determine that you are at 6” of lift? It looks like 4” to me and your caster numbers support that.

My plates correct for 7 degrees so if your Dobinson plates are indeed 5 degrees my plates would add 2 degrees to what you have.

Center hub to fender flare is 26". If I remember correctly I was at 20" stock...maybe 20.5".

Yes, I am using the 5 degree plates from Dobinson. I wasn't even aware there was a 7 degree plate. Are those listed as the "4" application" on your site? Would this help tighten the steering?

@devo thanks for the info.
 

mudgudgeon

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Did you want that much lift?

Caster issues are the first worm out of the can IMO

Beyond about 3" of lift, you start getting all sorts of issues that require solutions and money. Maybe changing springs is a better fix rather that piling on band aids?
 

landtank

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Center hub to fender flare is 26". If I remember correctly I was at 20" stock...maybe 20.5".

Yes, I am using the 5 degree plates from Dobinson. I wasn't even aware there was a 7 degree plate. Are those listed as the "4" application" on your site? Would this help tighten the steering?

@devo thanks for the info.
I would say you’re at 5.5” of lift. Any other mods to the front axle or mounts?

I ask because at that height I’d expect your caster reading to be a bit lower. And that height is higher than what my caster plates can compensate for and still be with the factory specs
 
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I used the eimkieth ram with slee castor plates🤷🏻‍♀️. It drive great, but I have a part time kit
 
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Did you want that much lift?

Caster issues are the first worm out of the can IMO

Beyond about 3" of lift, you start getting all sorts of issues that require solutions and money. Maybe changing springs is a better fix rather that piling on band aids?
No I didnt. I intended to only get 4". The supplier told me the springs would settle, but they certainly arent going to settle that much. Originally it was about .5" higher, so it has settled a little.

The stance is great and I like the clearance, but honestly I dont need it. I think swapping the springs is likely what I'll do. What other issues could I get into down the road, beyond the caster?
 
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I would say you’re at 5.5” of lift. Any other mods to the front axle or mounts?

I ask because at that height I’d expect your caster reading to be a bit lower. And that height is higher than what my caster plates can compensate for and still be with the factory specs
I added an adjustable Panhard and DC shaft.
 

devo

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#1 on my thoughts will be your pinion angles. Your rear axle will have to be adjustable to achieve the optimum DS angle. My experience is that you can’t do much with front DS angle and a DC DS won‘t help much!



devo
 

mudgudgeon

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No I didnt. I intended to only get 4". The supplier told me the springs would settle, but they certainly arent going to settle that much. Originally it was about .5" higher, so it has settled a little.

The stance is great and I like the clearance, but honestly I dont need it. I think swapping the springs is likely what I'll do. What other issues could I get into down the road, beyond the caster?

Drive line vibrations will be the big one. I see you went with a DC shaft. They don't always solve the problem, and tend to wear uni joints fast.

Other things that are typically needed with big lifts.
Adjustable rear links
adjustable panhard rods. Raised panhard brackets away bar extension links
Extended brake lines
extended bump stops
LSPV extension bracket

Things that are affected . . .
You'll get more bump steer as panhard and steering link geometry will be off.
Handling in general will be affected due to link geometry, and raised centre of gravity (more body roll)

Raising the rear panhard mount on the rear diff will help correct some of the poor handling, but you'll lose the factory smooth handling to some extent.

Knuckle studs on the passenger side knuckle / steering arm are more likely to work loose (search "check yer nuts").

Rear brake balance can be problematic unless LSPV is set up properly.

Parking in garages can be a problem, at the mall or at home.

It'll feel less stable off road due to raised centre of gravity and more body roll due to longer springs. I've known guys to build up a rig with talk lift, then sell it because they were terrified of being on a side slope with the extra lift.

They are more difficult to get in and out of. May not be a problem for you, but what about missus, kids, friends? I once had a date fall out of my 4" lifted cruiser trying to get it of it with held on (great impression on a first date :lol: )

6" lift looks like you're compensating.

I'm sure there's other things impacted, but forget.

I previously had a 4" lifted 80, and a 2" lifted 105 series.
The 2" lifted cruiser went everywhere the 4" lifted 80 did, and then some. The 2" lifted cruiser put more built up rigs to shame. The mods I did meant it just worked. It was stable and predictable. It had limitations, but the trade off of a higher lift wasn't worth it IMO

I currently have an 80 on stock/original suspension running 305/70R16 tyres (33"). Eventually I'll put a 2" lift under it. I've kept tire size at 33" because I like the gearing to stay close to stock
 

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