Carburetor removal question

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cbmontgo

cbmontgo

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I am hoping to remove my carb this weekend for a rebuild (yes, I am going to give this a shot), and I see several linkages where it is connected. Other than the 4 main mounting bolts/nuts, how many linkages need to be disconnected? I see a couple of springs and ball "joints" in there, but I don't know which ones to release.

I wish I had photoshop to make some "arrows" on here. This is what I am looking at:
carb.webp
 
I just did this for a webber to stock switch....you need to pull the clevis pin you show in your picture and then remove one of the black retaining rings on the rod below the clevis pin you just pulled. Make sure you don't lose em....use a pair of needle nose pliers to pull the clevis pin...i used a pair of small channel locks to twist the retaining ring off....once that is off the throttle assembley will fall down on the front of firewall...but won't separate...take a few pictures to help you remember how to put it all back together....but it is easy...have fun....
 
eastendmedic said:
I just did this for a webber to stock switch....you need to pull the clevis pin you show in your picture and then remove one of the black retaining rings on the rod below the clevis pin you just pulled. Make sure you don't lose em....use a pair of needle nose pliers to pull the clevis pin...i used a pair of small channel locks to twist the retaining ring off....once that is off the throttle assembley will fall down on the front of firewall...but won't separate...take a few pictures to help you remember how to put it all back together....but it is easy...have fun....
Click to expand...

So just the clevis pin and one of the retaining clips, that's it? What about the choke...are there any other connections related to it?
 
I just did this for a webber to stock switch....you need to pull the clevis pin you show in your picture and then remove one of the black retaining rings on the rod below the clevis pin you just pulled. Make sure you don't lose em....use a pair of needle nose pliers to pull the clevis pin...i used a pair of small channel locks to twist the retaining ring off....once that is off the throttle assembley will fall down on the front of firewall...but won't separate...take a few pictures to help you remember how to put it all back together.
Click to expand...
No! Don't do that.

I was trying to stay out of this, but once again have been sucked down into it.:doh:

First, remove the throttle return spring, visible in the pic.

Then use a long screw driver and pry the throttle pushrod off the ball stud on the carb throttle arm. The black spring clips on either end stay in place. They are springy, just pry and the pushrod will pop straight off (to the rear).

Remove the four 12mm mounting nuts. Lift the throttle linkage bracket off the outer two studs and let it fall. It's not going anywhere.

No need to remove clips of any sort.
 
CBmontago,

No it's the other sping in the picture and the other end of that link that needs to come off.

Dynosoar
 
I don't know if it just me or if it's a problem for others, but I can never get a socket -even with a u-joint on to the mounting nut that is closest to to the firewall and to the valve cover, I ended up cutting a wrench to fit it, I would have welded it back together to form an L-shape but the welder is down, like I said don't know if it's just me.
 
Slightly off topic.............

Hey Dynosaur......

I see you've taken the 60 down to Cabo. I am leaving on the 19th to head down to Todos Santos, just north of Cabo, for a 3 week cruise. I'll be driving this.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=118483

It's my Christmas present to my two college-going daughters. I don't think their mother is too happy that I've snagged them for both Christmas and New Years but I've been on the short end the past 12 years when it comes to alone time with them. We will take 3-4 days on the way down and will probably stay a week and then another 3-4 days coming back. Any suggestions on places to camp, must-have gear, or anything else you can think of? The only sure thing at this point is the stop in Loreto. It's been about 15 years since I've made the drive but I'm sure it hasn't changed a whole lot.
 
RHON said:
I don't know if it just me or if it's a problem for others, but I can never get a socket -even with a u-joint on to the mounting nut that is closest to to the firewall and to the valve cover, I ended up cutting a wrench to fit it, I would have welded it back together to form an L-shape but the welder is down, like I said don't know if it's just me.
Click to expand...

I don't use a socket either. I purchased a stubby combination wrench (10mm IIRC).
 
ZRotheohv said:
also have choke cable! it's just a cable retained by a clamp held by a phillips head screw. once the screw's out i believe you move the cable vertically and the nubbin on the end of the cable slides out. it's easy to see what to do though.
Click to expand...

That's what I was wondering about. Thanks.
 
didn't mean to give any wrong info here....I basically did what JC said except I had to replace the long swively rod...so that is why I had to remove the clevis pin...figured it made it all come out easily for me.....those little black clips do snap right back into place if they happen to come off...as long as you don't over stretch em......your choke cable...if it is like mine....is just like a old bicycle brake cable held in place by a nubbin and phillips head screw with a clamp....just goes to show you there is more than one way to skin a cat.....hope I didn't jam you up!
 
eastendmedic said:
didn't mean to give any wrong info here....I basically did what JC said except I had to replace the long swively rod...so that is why I had to remove the clevis pin...figured it made it all come out easily for me.....those little black clips do snap right back into place if they happen to come off...as long as you don't over stretch em......your choke cable...if it is like mine....is just like a old bicycle brake cable held in place by a nubbin and phillips head screw with a clamp....just goes to show you there is more than one way to skin a cat.....hope I didn't jam you up!
Click to expand...

Hey, no problem. I appreciate everyone's help here. I am going to get to work on it this afternoon, so I am sure there are many more questions to come!
 
Gasket between heatsheild and carb. = Yes.
 
There is no separate gaskest between the carb and intake manifold. However, there is the heat shield with permanantly bonded gaskets to the top and bottom of it.

Dynosoar
 
Dynosoar said:
There is no separate gaskest between the carb and intake manifold. However, there is the heat shield with permanantly bonded gaskets to the top and bottom of it.

Dynosoar
Click to expand...

OK, cool. I think it is good to go then. My heat shield is on there and looks fine.
 
Okay, maybe I stand corrected , but my heatsheild did not have any gaskets bonded to it but rather some sort of paper gaskets, could be something the PO did, I got my rebuilt carb. from cruiserparts.net and they sent the two gaskets with it, either way there needs to be something there.
 
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