Carb woes

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T

TX650L

Joined
Nov 15, 2008
Threads
24
Messages
103
Location
Houston
Well I picked up the 1984 FJ60 today. When I got it from the guy it started and ran well but then on the way home I ran into some problems. The PO said that he had rebuilt the carb on the rig. Apparently he did not rebuild it right because as I was slowing down to pay at a toll booth the truck died. After much praying and hoping I was finally able to crank it up. It would crank and belch black smoke but would not catch. This would happen as soon as I was not giving the truck gas. It happened a few more time and finally I realized that if I goosed the engine while stopped it would not die. Anyway I made it to my uncle's house (who happens to be a pretty competent mechanic) and we started looking at things. Apprently the carb is flooding really bad. The crazy thing is that when I left his house the truck ran fine. I was able to stop at lights etc with no problems.

I have come to realize that this is a carb problem and that I will either need to rebuild or replace the carb. I have only rebuilt one carb ever and that was on my dirt bike. I am very mechanically inclined though and with a good manual or instructions I could rebuild it. Does anyone know where to fine these? Also I'm thinking about just buying a Weber Carb and replacing it all together. Are these carbs worth it? Which one should I be getting and where?

Thanks for all the help guys. Forums like this make me confident to tackle problems once thought to be out of my ability! :wrench::)
 
I bought a new stock carb about 6 months ago, but it was beyond my limited skills to adjust, and my mechanic never really got it right either. One reason was the half-**s desmog on the rig. I just bought a weber 38 DGES. It is installed and I just finished a 12 hour trail ride. I love it. Other rigs stalled where I drove smoothly; plenty of power; good milage. Just my 2 cents.
 
Congratulations on the new rig, don't be afraid to tear into it!
As long as you don't fumble with the idle mix screw, then things can't get any worse. It takes me about an hour to remove, clean, and replace my carb. Start by removing the air filter housing via the two 12mm bolts, one on the valve cover, the other on the head above the dizzy. Then undo the valve cover vent in the back, and undo the 10mm on the carb. Remove hoses and move the entire filter housing out of the way. Get a 17mm line wrench and undo the fuel line in, next the linkages should be removed. Next, the vacuum lines and then the 4 12mm nuts holding down the carb and it should pop off.
-Once the carb is off, I start by undoing the accelerator pump and then removing the 8 screws. After this, one linkage must be undone, then the top half should lift off. Clean the jets via the bowl drain ports, https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/108900-carb-problems-carb-rebuild-101-please.html
 
GAS-A-LOT! said:
"THIS SOUNDS LIKE A JOB FOR!....."

:bounce2:JIM-C!!!!!!!:bounce:
Click to expand...

Depending on where you are located and timing, I would also recommend Mark's Off Road.

I was going through the SAME thing you are. For one, the R&R I NOW have to under 30mins. I'm that quick at it now after going through my headache.

It sounds as though you have an idle circuit issue. This is commonly caused by gunk in the lines that gets past the fuel filter OR occurs AFTER the fuel filter. Now on mine even after Mark rebuilt it I had issues, not with the rebuild but with the fuel lines going from the fuel filter to the pump. Turns out my fuel lines were starting to fall apart and gel on the inside. These little pieces were getting sucked into the carb's idle circuit and then black smoke and VERY hard starts. I would recommend getting the rebuild AND THEN replacing ALL of the rubber lines. There aren't very many and it adds about another hour or so to the job.
 
TX650L said:
Unfortunatley I'm in Texas so getting to Mark wouldn't be possible. I will take some pictures of the engine compartment on the truck and let y'all see them. It appears when the guy rebuilt and reinstalled the motor he left a lot of stuff unhooked back up!
Click to expand...

I'd say make sure everything is hooked up as it should, then re-evaluate how well your carb is working. If you say you are a competent mechanic, then rebuilding the carb should be a easy.

After reading what NLXTACY experienced, I'd say replace the soft fuel lines as well, including the filter.
 
How long did the PO let the rig sit?

You may have crud in your gas tank and fuel lines and that is what went into your carb. Check your fuel filter and see how full of crap it is. If it is full, you will have a good idea of what went into the carburetor. You will have to check all this stuff out and clean it before you remount the newly rebuilt carb.


NLXTCY can back me up on this. :D
 
what part of texas? i'm in dallas and there's a really good mechanic in garland who specializes in old landcruisers. he used to work for ccot. send me a PM if you want/need his number.
 
float & needle problem

Sounds like the problem is fuel level creeping up in the bowl at idle. This is usually caused by minor crud contamination in the needle & seat.

Try this quick trail fix:
- place a rag under front of carb. remove 14mm bowl drain plugs. a few ounces of gas will come out.
- disconnect fuel feed line, remove fuel inlet fitting (17mm wrench).
- shoot carb cleaner spray into fuel inlet, let it wash out through drain plugs.
- chase carb spray w/ compressed air, if available.
- crank engine over w/ a catch can under fuel line, until several ounces of gas has come out. This is to flush out crud lingering in the fuel line right outside the carb.
- reassemble fuel inlet & fuel fitting.
- crank engine a little, just to get gas into the carb and pissing out the drain plugs.
- install drain plugs.
- start it up, watch fuel level in window. If fuel goes up off window, SHUT IT DOWN. Repeat drain & rinse cycle above until fuel level will stay on window.

It takes longer to type this than to actually do it.
 
FJ40Jim said:
Sounds like the problem is fuel level creeping up in the bowl at idle. This is usually caused by minor crud contamination in the needle & seat.

Try this quick trail fix:
- place a rag under front of carb. remove 14mm bowl drain plugs. a few ounces of gas will come out.
- disconnect fuel feed line, remove fuel inlet fitting (17mm wrench).
- shoot carb cleaner spray into fuel inlet, let it wash out through drain plugs.
- chase carb spray w/ compressed air, if available.
- crank engine over w/ a catch can under fuel line, until several ounces of gas has come out. This is to flush out crud lingering in the fuel line right outside the carb.
- reassemble fuel inlet & fuel fitting.
- crank engine a little, just to get gas into the carb and pissing out the drain plugs.
- install drain plugs.
- start it up, watch fuel level in window. If fuel goes up off window, SHUT IT DOWN. Repeat drain & rinse cycle above until fuel level will stay on window.

It takes longer to type this than to actually do it.
Click to expand...

Folks, do yourself a favor and PRINT THIS OUT AND KEEP IN THE TRUCK!!!!!!
 
If you're looking for a Weber, 213_dan has a 38DGAS in the classifieds. It looks to be in good condition. Not sure if it's still available.
 
I am going to look at an FJ60 for purchase this afternoon. Is there a way to tell if the carb is strong and reliable?
 
jibberMT said:
I am going to look at an FJ60 for purchase this afternoon. Is there a way to tell if the carb is strong and reliable?
Click to expand...

Where in MT are you going to look at it? Stock carbs are the best for the 2F
 
Jim C, we pray to you.... :D

Joey, how come you get to curse :censor: in Japanese in your sig line !! :eek:
 
jibberMT said:
I am going to look at an FJ60 for purchase this afternoon. Is there a way to tell if the carb is strong and reliable?
Click to expand...

Pull the choke knob, pump the gas pedal 4 or 5 times, and see if it will cold start.

If it fires up and runs good after a couple minutes warmup, you're golden.

If it is hard to start and keep running, then it may need some carb/manifold leak repairs.
 
Grady said:
I bought a new stock carb about 6 months ago, but it was beyond my limited skills to adjust, and my mechanic never really got it right either. One reason was the half-**s desmog on the rig. I just bought a weber 38 DGES. It is installed and I just finished a 12 hour trail ride. I love it. Other rigs stalled where I drove smoothly; plenty of power; good milage. Just my 2 cents.
Click to expand...

I had one of those, best carb I ever had. I would have to say that the stocker was the most complicated pile of junk I have ever seen. Simplicity is beautiful, especially when it makes more power and still gets good milage.
 
Alright, so I dont' think I'm hijacking here because it goes with the thread, but what is wrong with the Weber, everyone says the stock is better, but I've even heard some of the carb gurus say that the weber may be a better choice for people that are not as mechanically inclined, or don't know cruiser carbs (which seem to be a creature of their own) My truck doesn't run right, dies at idle etc. But it could be any number of things (most likely carb, or the manifold leak...both of which will be fixed eventually, it's my hobby truck, not my daily driver)

All of that said, I've never heard of anyone being unhappy with the weber aside from the air cleaner size (which can be fixed with an adapter from K&N.

(Really I'm not being snotty, I'm just curious) what's wrong with the weber?
 
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