carb squealing???

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Joined
Nov 5, 2010
Threads
9
Messages
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Location
Salem, Oregon
Hi everyone well I have had a noise coming from my engine area for a while now that i had not been able to pin point and would really appreciate some help.

The noise starts once the landcruiser is warmed up.... for the most part at least.

It is a high pitched squealing noise that is there at idle and under load at first, but once i give it a little more throttle it goes away?

I traced it down to what sounds like is coming from inside the carb? I used a stethascope but i was not able to find a for sure location.

I has been driving me crazy for a while but now it sounds like it is getting even louder?????

One thing i was wondering about for the longest time was that the PO filled some of the vacume ports on the back side of the carb "closest to the valve cover" with silicone.
I got as much of the silicone out as possible and made sure the ports were working before capping them off?
 
With the air cleaner off grab the carb and try to wiggle it. It's probably loose.

Have fun tightening up the nuts. It's a PITA.
 
ok guys here where im at with this so last week I tightend up the carb mounting nuts and that didnt help :/ so i removed the carb and I had to replace the gaskets with some gaskets that I had to make up out of some gasket material for napa and that didnt help so now after thinking that my gaskets i made sucked I bought new OEM ones from sor ($15 for the shipping!!!) and now i got it put back together today but I had some other issues cause i replaced the side cover gasket at the same time and did not know how to re alighn the dizzy but tomarrow morning before work hopefully It all works out! but idk i think im losing hope :/
 
If the sound is a whistle, then it is most likely a vacuum leak. You can spray around the carb and intake gasket areas with carburetor cleaner. When you spray near the leak, the engine idle will change.

If it's really a squeal, then I would suspect a rotating component, not the carb. Check your fan belts and look at your rotating accessories: water pump, alternator, power steering pump, ac compressor, ac idle pulley, etc.
 
If the sound is a whistle, then it is most likely a vacuum leak. You can spray around the carb and intake gasket areas with carburetor cleaner. When you spray near the leak, the engine idle will change.

If it's really a squeal, then I would suspect a rotating component, not the carb. Check your fan belts and look at your rotating accessories: water pump, alternator, power steering pump, ac compressor, ac idle pulley, etc.

X2. Is it a whistle or a squeal? I have a high pitched squeal and using a spray bottle with water tracked it down to one of the pulleys (power steering?) I just one at a time hit the center (axle, spindle?) of each pulley and suddenly on one of them, no more squeal for 10 seconds or so. I found my vacuum leaks with carb cleaner, if you do this, have a fire extinguisher nearby. I don't think a fire is real likely, but what the hell.
 
Check your bvsv's on the t stat housing. You said the noise happens once warm? The bvsv's open up and let vacuum thru upon reaching op temp. If one of the bvsv's is broken or its switched hose is broken or open on the end OR if the devices that those hoses go to are leaking, then the leak will only be noticed upon reaching op temp. Do a search on how to reset your dizzy. It goes... w/ the cap off, line up the rotor tip to the #4 spark plug w/ the #1 piston at top dead center of your compression stroke. Use a flat blade screw driver to line up the oil pump drive slot w/ the blade on the base of the dizzy drive shaft. You may have to point the rotor a bit more toward the rear of the engine as it will turn toward the front(advancing) as you set it down in the drive splines. Make sure you have it all the way down and that the oil pump/dizzy interface is correct or you will not pump oil. Once it is set, the rotor should be pointing right at the #1 electrode on the inside of the dizzy cap. Check timing is at 7* before tdc w/ your light when your done. Good luck.
 
Alright guys thanks for the help!
The noise is a whistle that changes with the throttle position i sprayed the carb down with a squirt bottle of water and right around the base plate closest to the front and closest to the valve cover and the noise stops after a min. then about 5 min or so and the noise comes back?

this is why im replacing the carb mounting gaskets and also the egr gasket just because im already there lol

im having a hell of a time with the dizzy install Iv done the things as you said but idk for sure if #1 isfully at TDC and I dont have a large enough socket to turn the crank by hand so i am having to do it just by bumping the starter over?

any idea which size the nut is on the crank the hold the balancer on?
 
hmmmmmm well all who is listening I have this thing timed "perfect" following the dizzy install to the T. and this still will not run!
 
OK i have this thing installed and timed "perfect" i followed the install procedure to the T. and this thing still will not start. my battery has about 12 volts maybe less now could this be the problem? i cant tell if im getting spark or not being im the only person to turn the key.... im having no luck with this thing :/ iv got 12 volts at the coil also? please help!
 
When you installed the distributor following the procedure are you sure the #1 cylinder was at TDC on the compression stroke? If the cylinder was at TDC on the exhaust stroke when the distributor was installed, the truck won't run. You can't rely on just the timing mark being aligned you need to confirm whether its on the compression (right) or exhaust (wrong) stroke.
 
hmmmm ok no i did not :/ i went of the mark in the bellhousing and looking inside the #1 plug hole :/ darn ok so do i need to remove the valve cover for this?
 
remove the plugs. turn the flywheel by turning the nut on the alternator. put your thumb over *1 plug while turning. When you feel air going past your thumb and it corresponds with being at the TDC mark on the flywheel, you are at top dead center at the compression stroke. If you pass it up, you will have to pass the mark again, once it returns again it will be the compression stroke.
 
alright guys thanks for the help i got it goin now :] but still not sure if the whistling is fixed I didnt hear it on the test drive though :]
 
classic vacuum leak. Good tracking, happy driving!
 
My 88 Dakota is squealing when I give it gas and let of the gas it has to be to the floor before it stops but when i take the air filter container off it runs fine please help me
 

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