Carb linkage sticking - see pics and help me figure out how to fix this

[Infinity00]

Yes, another carb linkage sticking problem. I've narrowed it down by removing the various linkages. It has nothing to do with the horizontal throttle rod, nothing to do with accelerator linkage, or the choke cable or linkage. I've removed all and I still can't rotate the throttle by hand.

The pictures attached show the linkage that is the problem. If I hold the lever it is attached to in an upward position, then I can rotate the throttle. It seems and looks like the linkage got bent somehow (probably jamming the accel pedal) but that doesn't totally explain the lever dropping too low. I've searched and found pictures of other vehicles that show the lever sitting up at a higher angle. This is the angle I have to get it to, I believe, in order to get it working. It isn't obvious to me that I can try to bend the linkage to get it right again.
Any ideas
How can I fix this?

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

SOR has pixs if each carb from each side. Check them out and it’ll give you a better frame of reference. It’s way hard for me to see. I’ve rebuilt mine and had it off mulitiplevtimes and played w/ each pivot linkage point but I really am not one to say. @FJ40Jim or @mwebfj60 or .... anyone?

 

[Infinity00]

Thanks for the response. It was really really hard to get my damn phone in there for a picture. The carb is on the car so I had to shove my phone in there and take a blind shot. I’ll take a look at sor

 

[Infinity00]

I can’t find it on the SOR assembly drawing. Maybe I’m missing something, everything else is there

 

[Infinity00]

Okay I found it. Pictures not assembly drawing. I’ll see if I can post the SOR picture of the same perspective - mine looks terrible by comparison!

 

[Infinity00]

Looks like I might have to do surgery on it to square it all up again, then maybe the lever will align properly (more horizontal, or slightly upward). It looks like it’s bent in multiple dimensions.

 

[mwebfj60]

That's the linkage for the secondary slow cut valve. From the pics, it's hard to tell but the linkage looks jacked up. Here are a couple decent pics of how it should look.

 

[mwebfj60]

Looks like I might have to do surgery on it to square it all up again, then maybe the lever will align properly (more horizontal, or slightly upward). It looks like it’s bent in multiple dimensions.

If you can't get it right, let me know, I've parted most of this carb out, I can send you that linkage.

 

[g-man]

you need to straighten that linkage in question. Or replace it. That operates the secondary accelerator pump (basically used for hills and passing) You can remove it and your carb will still work but will hesitate and you'll get some slight huckabuck action...with any up and down on the throttle. Another issue with this is that your acclerator pedal may get stuck in the down position!! Then you'll be putting your foot under the pedal to kick it back up!

 

[Infinity00]

Thanks for the offer mweb, it is totally jacked, I don’t know how it happened, been running fine for 2 years. I’ll try to fix it. Just got my widebamd O2 sensor and gauge on it and was trying to take it out on the virgin run to see how it did after I got the idle mixture and timing just right. So bummed out, I was planning on testing and then changing jets if necessary, don’t want to take off the carb before that first run, but I think I’ll have to. What do people do for a gasket when popping their carbs off? I replaced the big molded piece when I did the rebuild a couple years ago. Do you slip a paper gasket in there or just pop it back on the integrated molded piece and hope it doesn’t leak? I’m leaning towards thin paper gasket

 

[OSS]

No separate gasket required between the carb base & insulator plate. The gasket is bonded to the insulator. Just pull the carb & remount it dry

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

How’s the carb base look? Smooth? Not marred at all? Cruiser Outfitters (@cruiseroutfit) does sell two gaskets. One is a semi paper material and one is that plenum (ones green and ones pink) for placing on either side of the thick insulator. IF your carb base has some scratches or the surface of your insulator has some imperfections then I’d use gaskets.
I made my own from the gasket paper material. Just make sure you cut the holes large enough so you don’t end up w/ tumbling of fuel.

 

[Infinity00]

I didn’t make it down today to work on it but will post up when I get a chance to dive into it.

 

[Infinity00]

It shouldn’t look like this

 

[Infinity00]

Lol

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Just gently bend it back here or will you replace it from @mwebfj60...

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

I can pull mine if you want and take some pics. Carb is installed but truck isn’t running right now. Lmk. Tmrw I could do it... too dark and bitter cold here now.

 

[Infinity00]

Fixed! The lever was twisted a little too. Basically, I unbent thr linkage, and lever, and made sure the ends that attach to the lever and cam were paralleL again. Put it back on, and viola it worked perfectly! I have NO idea how it got so bad but that throttle was not moving not even if I were to pick up or push down on the accelerator pedal.

This gave me a chance to check the manifold bolt torque and put the Toyota rubber boot on the accelerator that I’ve had since 2014, to replace the rotten one from my rebuild kit...

Thanks for all the support!

 

[mbplace]

Hey! I literally had the same thing just happen to me, picture below. Did you have to use any special tools to bend back in place? Terrified I’ll snap it — I know this thread is pretty old but if anyone still is willing to sell this part that’d be greatly appreciated!

I believe it got stuck behind the speed screw and when I pumped the accelerator it warped the rod…..