Carb decision - Rochester, Aisin, or Weber (1 Viewer)

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Think I have one. Drive on up to McCall tomorrow and get it, and do some skiing while you're here!

;)

Probably quicker to get it at NAPA or Carquest, though.

(Don't think United lands in McCall, thank God)
 
[quote author=FJ55partsBoise link=board=1;threadid=11186;start=msg105470#msg105470 date=1076902887]

Where would you get the base gasket fast?
[/quote]


Make it.

Auto store will have gasket paper, cut one out with a razor blade.

I have made many...


Good luck!

-Steve
 
Thanks again guys. I will get the paper gasket. Tonight, I noticed fuel seeping from that area where the lower gasket should be or is I cannot tell. I have the chassis manual but many of my questions are not covered in this manual, maybe the engine manual.

Is the spacer that is listed on SOR site about a half inch thick? #2 on this page? http://www.sor.com/sor/cat042.tam?xax=25568&page.ctx=cat042.tam

I found a few things that may be involved:

1) I replaced one semi clogged fuel filter that I never knew was there under battery. A bunch of rusty crap fell from it. This was embarassing.

2) one cracked and leaking fuel line replaced again under battery. This was embarassing also.

3) Funny thing the spark plugs I replaced today are OK after many attempted starts. This tells me that it is less likely to be carb related and more likely timing and or vacuum?

4) large oil can filter type cannister of right inner fender well had two lines that were there, only one was connected? This can is roughly the size of a Foster's oil can. Do these go straight down to those steel lines that sit below the cannister?

5) On the end of the distributor there is a vacuum module with a tiny nipple, the kind that is intended to be used with a vacuum line. Line is missing. Where does this line go?

6) On brake booster there is a vacuum check valve. Does this only get utilized for diagnostics? Or does this connect to PCV valve on valve cover? Right now my PCV blower tube is capped. Wrong?

I double checked the throttle and it is the way it is supposed to be. It moves freely etc with no binding.

Tomorrow I start with new gasket and carb cleaner to check for leaks. Fresh oil change with new filter. Then check for vacuum leaks with a gauge? Then timing?

Thanks again

Dave thanks for the offer on skiing. I wish I could be skiing.
 
I think we are getting somewhere. It is a little murky to me, since we have a '74 with a 2F engine, and my experience is with a 1F, but generally speaking, I will throw in my 2 cents, and Steve and/or someone else can add in:

The carb insulator (or plenum) is about a half inch thick, like you say. On 2F engines it has the large sheet metal heat deflector as shown on your page in SOR's catalog.

I am not sure about drawing a conclusion yet from number 3, except overall things are probably running lean, like Steve said.

I'm not sure what the oil can thing is that you are describing in 4. What does the one line connect to? Is it a fuel separator? The oil filter?

Vacuum line from the distributor goes to a brass nipple on the bottom of the carb, passenger side.

Brake booster goes to vacuum fitting on intake manifold. Otherwise, you have no boost.

PCV hose goes to vacuum fitting on intake manifold in your case (on carb insulator in my case).

An engine manual (2F) will serve you well. With that, a tach/dwell meter, timing light, and vacuum gauge (Sears at the mall has decent stuff), you won't be doing this with both hands tied behind your back, like you are now!
 
Dave/Steve-

see bold replies please

The carb insulator (or plenum) is about a half inch thick, like you say. On 2F engines it has the large sheet metal heat deflector as shown on your page in SOR's catalog. I don't have a heat shield as my truck is pre 1975, made in Oct 1973.
I'm not sure what the oil can thing is that you are describing in 4. What does the one line connect to? It is some type of emission filter.

Vacuum line from the distributor goes to a brass nipple on the bottom of the carb, passenger side. Ok if this line connects to the distributor to base of carb then where does the line go from that vacuum port on the Aisin carb?

Brake booster goes to vacuum fitting on intake manifold. Otherwise, you have no boost. I don't see this fitting on the intake manifold? I am running a header does this matter?

PCV hose goes to vacuum fitting on intake manifold in your case (on carb insulator in my case). Again I need to figure where these fittings are?

An engine manual (2F) will serve you well. With that, a tach/dwell meter, timing light, and vacuum gauge (Sears at the mall has decent stuff), you won't be doing this with both hands tied behind your back, like you are now!

I agree and I am ordering a manual but it will take a few days to get here. As for the other parts I have to wait until we get moved. Too many nice tools get lost when we are relocating. They seem to diappear.

thanks
 
"Ok if this line connects to the distributor to base of carb then where does the line go from that vacuum port on the Aisin carb?"

Hopefully, you are not confusing the insulator, which is that 1/2" piece that under the carb, and has a 1/2" hose barb comming out of it, that should connect to your PCV valve, and the small vaccume port on the base, pass side of the carb. This small port is the place where the hose to the distributor attaches.


There should be a 1/2" hose that goes between the brake booster, and the intake manifold someplace. Headers would not change anything with this...
 
It would help you, specifically with this carb, to have an F engine manual...
 
Steve-

OK if this line connects to the distributor to the base of carb then where does the line go from that vacuum port on the Aisin carb? Hopefully, you are not confusing the insulator, which is that 1/2" piece that under the carb, and has a 1/2" hose barb coming out of it, that should connect to your PCV valve", I checked this part and it is correct. I am talking about the piece of tube that sticks out of the far back of the valve cover, it is about 3/4 of an inch and is on the drivers side. I think it may be the blowby? I do have the PCV valve connected to the insulator. I had my terminology wrong.


"and the small vaccume port on the base, pass side of the carb. This small port is the place where the hose to the distributor attaches." I have a rear small metal tube that sticks out on the drivers side of the carb. But no ports on the pass side?
The port I see is aiming right towards the drivers fender from the base of the carb. Now right above that is a vacuum module that is round with a tiny nipple also. This round vacuum port is right on the carb itself. Which connnects to the distributor please? The base piece of the carb or the carb piece vacuum port up higher?


"There should be a 1/2" hose that goes between the brake booster, and the intake manifold someplace. Headers would not change anything with this..." I don't have anyplace on the intake to connect this to. There are several small pieces that appear to be for this but they are all capped with aluminum caps? Could this be due to using the POS rochester? I tried to post pics but I keep getting errors or this would be alot easier.

THis is getting crazy but I can't find a manual quick enough.
 
There should be a piece of hose that connects the breather port on the valve cover to the air cleaner assembly.

If the small brass nipple is on the drivers side of the carb, then attach that to the distributor, or plug it, and hook the piece of tubing from the distributor to a port on the manifold that is currently capped, this will be the same vaccume.


Do you have a hose from your brake booster, that attaches to you intake manifold?
 
There should be a piece of hose that connects the breather port on the valve cover to the air cleaner assembly. OK I got it now. This is capped as I will be running a KN

If the small brass nipple is on the drivers side of the carb, then attach that to the distributor Perfect got it finally.


Do you have a hose from your brake booster, that attaches to you intake manifold?

I have the above mentioned hose but no place to put (this a common problem for guys expecially high school when braces meant a long stint of male birth control)

Intake is capped Steve in several points?
 
Steve- There are two brass nipples on the driver side. One on the carb and one on the base mount. One goes to the distributor? The other is capped?
 
As I recall you really want carb Vaccume on the dist. So it would be the one on the carb and not on the base mount.

There probably is a pipe fitting plugging a hole directly behind the carb on the top of the intake manifold.
Get a pipe fitting to hose adapter and screw it in there (metrick pipe fittings are not exactly the same as english pipe fittings. But you CAN make it work with a bit of luck..
That will go to the brake booster.

Did your brakes ever work very well?

Honestly, I think you are supposed to adjust the timing with the advance removed anyway. (Steve please correct me if I am wrong)

So to get the carb where you need it I see no reason why you could not unplug the PCV, Booster and the dist, plug off all of the ports on the carb and phenolic spacer and get it to run right.

If you isolate the carb alone you shoudl be able to get it running correctly.


But what the hell do I know,
I think Holley's are the end all be all carb for Cruisers ;)
 
OK I routed the vacuum line from distributor nipple to the carb base nipple. I put a new gasket at the base of the carb. It seems to have helped the problem enough to get it running a bit better. I will check more vacuum lines and timing tomorrow.

I plugged the nipple which is on the round vacuum solenoid on the carburator as I can't find where this one goes?

I still can't find where on the manifold the brake booster line goes? I checked the manifold inch by inch and can't see anywhere to put the booster line.

Can someone take a digital pic of their brake booster line and show me how to hook it up please?

So the carb cleaner will cause the engine to rev up if there is a vacuum leak? How long does it take carb cleaner to dissipate so that it is safe to try and start again?
 
get the truck running.

Spray with carb cleaner.

If something happens tell us.

There is not going to be any "wait time"
 
it must have multiple vacuum leaks. The good news is that it starts immediately and revs like crazy. I had to shut it down. I don't want to blow the motor.

How long will it take the carb cleaner to clear out?

BTW my brakes worked very well as drums but I swapped in front disks and they work even better now. I am working on getting the booster line connected also. I am trying to find an adaptor for the pipe fitting.

Thanks Mace, Dave, and Steve
 
The carb cleaner I tried out slowed things down (when I sprayed it down the carb throat! No leaks, here).

I took some pictures of my stock 71 setup for you. I should say, stock except for the fact I removed the VSV. The first picture shows how the booster hooks to the stock F intake manifold. (The upper hose is vacuum to the vacuum transfer shift).
 
This is a top-down view of the same thing. (Note the nonleaking OEM hoseclamps, Steve :flipoff2:)
 
Note here how the carb diaphragm connects to the Driver's side carb vacuum nipple. It actually should go to the VSV and back.
 
Here, the hose from the vacuum advance diaphragm on the distributor connects to the passenger side carb brass nipple (below the steel fuel line). Since you don't have one on your passenger side, I would suggest you "T" the distributor and carb diaphragms to the carb vacuum on the driver's side.
 
Dave- thanks a million for the photos. Those are priceless to me now.

I will install the T tomorrow and try starting again. I hope the idle is not super high again.

I plan on fixing the brake booster issue and adjusting idle in the AM.

Is your idle adjustment screw way inside on the carb on the firewall side?

Again thanks
 

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