Carb and timing questions

[Man Jerk]

I have been tinkering with my carb n stuff past couple of days. Just tuning kinds of things. Couple of things turned up that I have questions about. 1985 FJ60

It's not running badly, but I just want to get it running better.

Idle:
I set my idle @ 650 rpm (or real close to it). While I am driving, if I come to a stop it will idle at close to 1k, until I rev the engine a bit which makes it fall back down to 650. What may be causing this

While turning the idle screw the motor won't change idle until I rev the motor. Does the linkage need to be lubed? I'm assuming I could just use some lithium grease at the joints.

What is the adjusting screw that is in the front of the carb below the sight glass?

Timing:
I set my idle at 690 rpm, and disconnected/plugged the vac lines to the advance deeleo bob on the side of the dist. I also disconnected/plugged the 2 vac lines the are on top of the distributor. I cannot turn the distributor any further counterclockwise which I believe advances the timing. The bracket that holds it down lets is move only so far. I'm pretty sure that I need to advance it, because if I turn it the other way, it starts running crappy. Am I missing something here?

 

[60wag]

It sounds like the throttle linkage is sticky. If you follow the linkage from the accelerator pedal lever to the carb you'l see several ball & socket pivots. The ball is retained by a clip that can easily be pulled out. Try a dab of grease in each of the sockets. If that doesn't do it, the the linkage on the carb must be sticking. Try hosing it down with a bit of carb cleaner.

The adjuster screw on the front of the carb sets the idle up speed for the AC. There are two screws on the back of the carb - one for idle, the other for the choked high idle speed. If you've been messing with one, pull out the choke to see if the other needs to be reset.

To set the timing, there should be 2 hoses on the side of the carb that need to be plugged. One is the carb advance, the other is the high altitude advance. The two hoses attached to the cap do nothing but ventilate the distrib cap - no need to disconnect them. Do you have a timing light? Most 2Fs are happiest with the distrib timing set close to the middle of the adjuster slot. I'm wondering if your distributor was removed and reinstalled incorrectly. If its off one tooth on the gear driving the distrib, that might account for having to set it all way to one end of the slot. A timing light would confirm this.

 

[Man Jerk]

Thank you.

I had simmilar thoughts about the dist. I had a conversation with someone about it last night. I've never had the dist out in the 2.5 years I've owned it. How does one go about removing and resetting the dist? Knowing how I tend to do things, I'll screw it up pretty bad before I get it right. It looks like quite a few things need to be taken out of the way to get it out.

It did run a little smoother before I lowered the idle to where it is now.

Cramer, if you are out there, I believe that Todd spoke to you about this last night.

any way. Thanks for the help.

 

[60wag]

You could try removing the distrib clamp bolt so you can rotate it further. This would confirm that that the gear mesh is off a tooth. I would do it with a timing light rather than just the smoothness of the idle. To reset the dizzy, you remove the clamp bolt and pull it out. The part that makes it hard is that the gears have a helical cut which makes the rotor turn as its removed or installed. The position of the rotor changes as you push the dizzy in. The Toyota book has you set the crank position to TDC on cyl 1 and then showes the approx direction that the rotor is pointing when installing the dizzy. I think you could simply pull the dizzy until the gears unmesh, then turn the rotor about 15-20deg CCW, then reseat the dizzy. Hopefully you can then set the timing with the clamp bolt in the middle of the slot.

 

[jeffroid]

The only thing I would add to 60wags suggestion is that don't get dismayed if it doesn't go back in and mesh with the slot in the oil pump right off the bat. You MIGHT have to go in with a long srewdriver and turn the oil pump to get the distributor to line-up. For some strange reason, sometimes you can't even take the distributor out and put it right back where it was without having to do that.

 

[dd113]

Throw a timing light on it. Set it to the stock pos and drive it a day or so. Then you will want to advance it until the BB drops out of the window just a bit, then see if it pings or rattles. If it pings drop back a bit into the window.You should also adj the valves pror to all this mess. Rehook the 2 vac lines to the dist cap.