Captain, we have just reached PUCKER factor... (1 Viewer)

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Proven

RTFM, STEP 6, POST
Joined
Apr 11, 2006
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904
Location
Atlanta
So there I was tonight reading the service manual...drinking a beer when I got the wild hair. Yes, the inevitable wild hair. The "Hey yall, watch this" wild hair.

So I now have the intake manifold sitting on my desk and I am in awe...one: because I am not quite sure how I am going to get it back on in spite of all my little hangy tags marking where everything should go back on and two: because I did it in an hour.

The first thing I noticed was just how dirty that sombitch. I am amazed at how carbonized and carmelized it is. Working on recreational products most my life and I have never seen an intake look like this. Must have something to do with that nasty little EGR valve. DISGUSTING!!!

So, I thought I would share this moment with the rest of you since I am now a 6 pack into my pain killers (PBR) and my ears are ringing from my impact gun.

Something to be desired from their FSM:
1. maybe go into more detail about how much of a PAIN IN THE ASS some of these screws are going to be to get out.
2. would be nice if the tools needed were listed before each major repair. (I have been dreaming of this for a long time in many a manufacturers manuals, nothing new).
3. I'd love to see foot/hand/knee placement guides much like playing twister on my engine block. Left hand: Cylinder head, spin, Right hand: Radiator.....

Well...I might take some shots of my carbonized intake just for the hell of it....time for bed.:cheers:
 
See? Who says tech can't be good prose .. :beer: :beer:


Pics ...


TY
 
Proven said:
The first thing I noticed was just how dirty that sombitch. I am amazed at how carbonized and carmelized it is. Working on recreational products most my life and I have never seen an intake look like this. Must have something to do with that nasty little EGR valve. DISGUSTING!!!

I believe it is the combinatin of EGR and oil vapor from the PCV. Makes a nice sludge.
 
Now that IS a good place to use toluene.
Kudos for diving in deeper than you have before.
Why did you do suddenly decide to do this?
 
Proven said:
So there I was tonight reading the service manual...drinking a beer when I got the wild hair. Yes, the inevitable wild hair. The "Hey yall, watch this" wild hair.

Famous last words: "Hold my beer!"

-Spike
 
fzj80kidpenNow that IS a good place to use toluene.
Kudos for diving in deeper than you have before.
Why did you do suddenly decide to do this?

I was reading and reading and reading and testing after reading. Then all the notes pointed south. I gotta get into this thing if I want to make it better.

I got tired of poking and proding...I knew I needed to shove my foot up sideways to get this thing clean. No more pretty pink panties cleaning...time to knuckle up.

I've pulled apart my fair share of engines, but this is my first time digging this deep on an engine this large, especially one with an EGR.

You recommend Toluene? I wasn't sure just yet what I was thinking of using. I know that once it is all together I plan on spraying that combustion chamber cleaner in there.
 
the intake manifods on these get pretty nasty, as do the combustion chambers. I tried a PCV valve catch can to collect most of the gunk from the PCV system, it did collect but was a pain to drain so I went back to stcok.

I need to give this another try.
 
I've been pondering pulling mine to give it a good cleaning, cause I know it's caked with gunk. Other than accessing the bolts, any other PITA items worth noting? You pulled the whole assembly (upper and low air intake manifolds) right?

For some reason I was thinking this was the part of the HG job that was a pain because the wiring harness has to be removed to get this assembly out.

Thanks,
Rookie2
 
Has anyone tried seafoam through a vacuum line as a cleaner and ongoing preventative maintenance? I've used it before on Land Rovers that are notorious for sticky valves and dirty intakes and it seemed to help a lot. I've never really tried it on my other Toyotas before because they don't seem to be so bad, but I've only owned my cruiser for a week.
 
Seafoam has been used, with varying results. Just be ready to have the Fire Department show up if you live in town...lots of smoke.
 
After all of this effort, have you thought about some preventative measures for the EGR and the PCV? Perhaps a catch can for the PCV but big enough so that it can hold a fair amount of crud?
 
Rookie2 I've been pondering pulling mine to give it a good cleaning, cause I know it's caked with gunk. Other than accessing the bolts, any other PITA items worth noting? You pulled the whole assembly (upper and low air intake manifolds) right?

I pulled just the upper, but by the looks of it that is the hardest part to get off in my opinion. If you are going to take off the upper I noticed that the rear 2 nuts and furthest screw can really only be tackled from the bottom. So you are going to need 2 8 inch extentions and have a couple 3 inch around for good measure. This was so that I could feed them up towards the screws. Something else I noticed was that my Craftsman (sears) wobble extensions paid for themselves. They allow for 15 degrees of "Wobble" whereby I could flex around things while still getting good torque on the nuts and screws.

All the hoses around the upper intake were easily taken off, it was when I needed to tackle some of the pieces that were below it. There are two hoses that come up from the middle and connect to the block underneath. I spent a while working these off with plastic hose pliers. The other issue I had was freeing up the bottom cable on the throttle cable assembly. It must be part of a dashpot assembly as I can find no other reason for it (Dashpot is so that when you rapidly accelerate and decelerate the engine will slowly return to idle rather than abruptly, it prevents stalling).

I would suggest though that you spray some type of PB Blaster or liquid wrench on all the screws prior to doing this. Maybe a day before? I found that all my screws were really oxidized. Once I broke them free they were easy to back out.

Somethings I do when removing pieces like this is to cut the fingers off some latex gloves to be used to plug hoses by slipping them over, then ziptie them down. If you plan on doing the repairs over a day or more, this keeps mother nature out of the hoses. Then make sure you have some rags or paper towels handy to stuff in all the lower intake channels for the same reason.

Have plenty of extension's, 12mm and 14mm sockets and wrenches, torx E7 socket for the egr studs, channel locks for hose clamps, latex or such gloves, an adjustable cresent wrench with a beak nose (capable of 35mm opening) for the EGR tube, bailing wire and some paper to tag the hoses, and some wax for the childrens ears.

alia176 After all of this effort, have you thought about some preventative measures for the EGR and the PCV? Perhaps a catch can for the PCV but big enough so that it can hold a fair amount of crud?

I am thinking about it, but I am really not sure. I think I might just run Ringfree every once in a while to keep the pipes clean. I like the idea of the catch can, but I am not sure how the application will work. Like the post above, I hear people praise them and admonish them.

I had to buy some more stuff today to properly clean this thing...I'll be taking some pictures tomorrow.
 
Great writeup. I've been thinking about doing this, and now I know what I'd need to be able to do it.

:cheers:
 
Proven said:
I pulled just the upper, but by the looks of it that is the hardest part to get off in my opinion.

I was browsing through the FSM the other day and it looked like their approach is to take both the upper and lower off as an assembly and then seperate them. The lower manifold may be the one that gets into having to undo the PITA engine wiring harness. So if it can be done without doing that and still be able to effectively clean the lower manifold, then that seems to make the job easier.

So how are you going to go about cleaning the lower manifold? I presume it is pretty gunked up too.

BTW, did you also remove the TB?

Thanks,
Rookie2
 
I got the upper off and that brings the throttle body with it. The first thing I did was blow through all the passages to check their breathing (on the throttle body) and found some that weren't doing so well. I flushed them out with "air intake cleaner" and some wire. When using wire be gentle with it and make sure it is plyable. You want it to scrape...not scratch or gouge.

I found my problem though for the EGR, my VSV was frozen with rust and the rust caked the internals. I got some pictures of that too after ripping it apart. It failed all the test procedures. I also had to drill out the line through the manifold from the VSV to the EGR. It was SOLID with carbon :mad: and now that that is taken care of, I sent the girlfriend out to get me my new VSV.

Replaced some vacuum lines and an evap line, and ran some 22 guage galvanized wire through all the ports that I could in the throttle body. Blew all the jets out with said "Air intake cleaner", then went a little nuts with it....It is crossing my mind to take it to a machine shop to soak. Then again, I just want it to pass emissions so I can register it in Georgia!! Once that is done I might get back into this thing. For now it is pretty cleaned up, and relubed.

Once the VSV gets here I will start the reassembly.:bounce:
 
Okay, the girlfriend called me from a Toyota store where the guy was a MORON. My girlfriend had the part number of the VSV I needed and my VIN number and he kept telling her she had the wrong part. He kept trying to sell her the VSV for the fuel pressure. NO NO NO NO! So after I got on the phone with him, he figured out his ass from a hole in the ground.

I got the VSV and had it all assembled in about 1.5 hours. It seems to be idling a little fast for my taste. Settles down at around 900 rpm, I am thinking that someone adjusted the idle on the dirty non-working components and now it is fixed...I will need to readjust it. I got some pictures of the assembly off, but got into a hurry. Need the truck for a party tonight.:whoops:
 
Proven, try adjusting your TPS sensor, if that is not it look for a vacuum leak
 

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