Cant get Gas Tank Straps to line back up

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deepseacruiser

10 Year 15 Year
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Jun 19, 2010
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San Diego, CA
I am in the process of putting my BJ74 back together after throwing some monstaliner in. I put a motorcycle jack under the gas tank when i released the tank straps. They were still under a good bit of tension and I cant get enough slack to put the bolts back in.

When i jack the stand up more it just starts to lift the truck.

Any Ideas?
 
Well you guys just made up my mind. I was going to drop my skid plate to pound a dent out of it and see if the tank is dented (happened before I got it so I don't know how hard it hit). I guess I'll leave it......:lol:
 
cruiserdan said:
Well you guys just made up my mind. I was going to drop my skid plate to pound a dent out of it and see if the tank is dented (happened before I got it so I don't know how hard it hit). I guess I'll leave it......:lol:
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Just have a few Coors and you will have that down in a few minutes. :lol:

We didn't have any issues with my tank a couple of years back.

C'mon go for it!
 
If I am going to do it I should do it now while Sarah is out of town. That way the plate will stay black.......:ban:
 
OGBeno said:
Bwaaa.....

:lol:

Good call.
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To educate the casual reader, Beno left his skid plate un-attended and it got, well, PAINTED when he wasn't looking. It and my wife disappeared for a time.
 
Hulsty said:
The tanks are a very tight fit, make sure it is properly located, mine already had very long bolts.
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Hulsty is correct about the tight fit. Last summer I replaced the skid plate under my tank. I fully drained the tank first which allowed me to handle the tank into proper position and I enlisted a helper to thread in the bolts. Longer bolts were not required, but they should make the task easier if you have a set.

Good luck.
 
cruiserdan said:
To educate the casual reader, Beno left his skid plate un-attended and it got, well, PAINTED when he wasn't looking. It and my wife disappeared for a time.
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.......and you didn't take a photograph of the finished product? :)
 
OGBeno said:
Well, it was an 80 series gas tank. A search in the 80 series section would get you the said picture. It's out there.

:)
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Oh, I thought she had defaced a real Land Cruiser ( 70 Series ) which should be a felony but since it was only a 80 Series it isn't even a misdemeanor. :)
 
I think I used a hydraulic jack and plywood to mash it back in position - was a bitch I remember
 
In a related topic to the thread, has anyone found a decent aftermarket manufacturer for the gas tank protector plates? My has a nice chunk taken out and I was thinking of replacing.....until Toyota quoted me $360.00. Seems dropping the tank is more involved that I had thought. Funny thing, the FSM don't have (that I've found) any description of gas tank/protector plate removal (unless I've seriously overlooked the Chassis/Body FSM).
 
Springbok70 said:
In a related topic to the thread, has anyone found a decent aftermarket manufacturer for the gas tank protector plates? My has a nice chunk taken out and I was thinking of replacing.....until Toyota quoted me $360.00. Seems dropping the tank is more involved that I had thought. Funny thing, the FSM don't have (that I've found) any description of gas tank/protector plate removal (unless I've seriously overlooked the Chassis/Body FSM).
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Hi
Reviving this thread as I have to go through this procedure.
And the manual doesn't have any details whatsoever.
Can somebody please advice on how to undo the Inlet pipe octopus from the body ?
Any best practices on how to reassemble the Inlet, due to the tight space? (I know, there is a cover in the wheel housing, but still tight).
Thanks for advice
Best regards
Ralf
 
Felde said:
Hi
Reviving this thread as I have to go through this procedure.
And the manual doesn't have any details whatsoever.
Can somebody please advice on how to undo the Inlet pipe octopus from the body ?
Any best practices on how to reassemble the Inlet, due to the tight space? (I know, there is a cover in the wheel housing, but still tight).
Thanks for advice
Best regards
Ralf
Click to expand...

Full disclosure up front I have a lift in the shop and I project that it makes this chore much easier.

Obvious steps
  • drain tank
  • remove guard over filler tubing
  • loosen bolts on filler tube
  • remove top collar to filler tube (portion that cap screws into; this will produce a small amount of play to wiggle/work the pipe to disconnect from hoses)
  • locate vehicle at height all work will be done at (i.e., providing enough distance to fully drop the tank while also having a jack or support under tank)
  • place jack or support under tank, and loosen bolts on tank but don't remove
  • wiggle tank so that it drops down into straps which may yield 1-2 inches of added clearance around tank
  • disconnect all hoses/pipes/sending unit electrical connection that you can reach
  • (note) I have found not to trust me memory, so I tag every connection location & part as I separate them. With the multitude of hoses on my tank and the tight space, I found this to be very helpful later
  • with tank supported by jack, remove strap bolts and move the straps down into a relaxed position
  • drop the tank incrementally with the jack (if there were connections that couldn't reach, use the added space you gain until everything is disconnected and clear)

FYI and possible planning Two important parts needed to be replaced before re-installation of my tank.
The skid plate was rusted under the straps and beyond viable repair.
The rubber hose connecting the inlet pipe to the tank was rock hard due to age. It needed to be replaced to gain enough flexibility for successful re-installation (it made removal much harder due to being rigid).

Re-installation was effectively the reverse but slower. I did by myself, but extra help would reduce the difficulty significantly. [lunch and drinks for a friend or two would be more than worth it]

One thing that I did that I found helpful, while the tank was still out, was to install all the smaller hoses (~ 1/4 inch lines) first with the hoses labeled and cut extra long. Once the tank was close to being nested into final position, I made reconnected the larger lines first then the smaller ones. Some of the smaller hoses were too long, so I re-cut them to proper length as I reconnected them. Again on re-installation, I supported the tank with a jack that would hold it in position while I fitted the hoses back. <So I wasted several feet of 1/4 inch fuel hose by doing it this way, but I found that it made it easier for me (& I put the scrape section of hose into a box for possible use on future projects).>

Good luck. Enjoy practicing colorful language because it is likely that this task will give you multiple opportunities.
 
Great writeup, Thanks a lot.
So, I understand the two collars that attach the pipe to the body both need to come off to free up the space to get the big rubber piece off.
What is this C-shaped wire for, which is depicted between those collars on the diagram?

I for sure will get all rubber pipes new, as well as that Inlet pipe octopus. Mine is badly rusted.
Is this C-shaped wire reusable?
Any other part I need to replace (other than the gaskets, of course)?
Screenshot_20211219-154659_Adobe Acrobat.webp

I want to inspect the frame, floor panel, tank, skid plate and brackets and apply rust protection. It doesn't look bad from what I can see, but I don't want any surprises later.
Thanks
Ralf
 
Felde said:
...
What is this C-shaped wire for, which is depicted between those collars on the diagram?

I for sure will get all rubber pipes new, as well as that Inlet pipe octopus. Mine is badly rusted.
Click to expand...

Felde said:
Is this C-shaped wire reusable? ...
Click to expand...

Sorry, but I don't recall seeing it.
 
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