- Thread starter
- #21
But did the OE have locking levers? If they did, I was not deactivating them AND cannot see how the SST in that picture was doing it.
Cannot losen the drum cylinder adj. nut (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Jukelemon
- Start date
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Not really sure to be honest, it's been years since I've seen one. You really can't get the locking arm off to adjust the drums thru the backing plate slot anyways. Pull the drums, at least to check shoe condition and cylinder leakage. Trust me, you can't break much on these trucks, but you will learn alot about them.
my drums do not have thos threaded holes. There are two holes, one large, one small, that are not opposite each other. I used screwdrivers to pry mine off the first time. A couple whacks with a BFH helped too.
Those threaded holes are not on the drum until 09/80 when the brake system in the rear changed from two wheel cylinder to one, and the parking brake went from the back of the t-case to the rear axle braking system...
On earlier drums, I have needed to rig up a very large puller to get stubborn drums removed...
Good luck!
-Steve
On earlier drums, I have needed to rig up a very large puller to get stubborn drums removed...
Good luck!
-Steve
I just ran into the same thing with my 69 FJ40. I found that a 3lb sledge and about 5 minutes of pent up aggression was all that it took. I figured that if things in there were that far gone, was probably going to have to replace the shoes anyway. While shopping for the wheel cylinders i found that you need to be a little careful of what you get. Some places sell them specifically front and rear, and also differentiate between the 9 and 3 positions. Do a little checking around before spending the cash.
You can unbolt the wheel cylinders from the backing plate to help get everything apart. The BFH works great to loosen the hub of the drum from the paper gasket Toyota installed on the axle flange.
The "locking lever" doesn't have to be pushed away to adjust the wheel cylinders like on other drum brake systems. Just crank away with the adjusting tool of your choice, the lever should just click as you move the adjusting wheel...
HTH,
Nick Jennings
The "locking lever" doesn't have to be pushed away to adjust the wheel cylinders like on other drum brake systems. Just crank away with the adjusting tool of your choice, the lever should just click as you move the adjusting wheel...
HTH,
Nick Jennings
1973Guppie
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I know this doesn't answer your question but I didn't see anyone mention it so here goes. Think about doing a brake disc swap all around. There are kits out there to do this fairly easily and it is a fairly simple swap. In the end you will be SOOOOO much happier with it. This is from personal experience as I used to have drum brakes and they gave me nothing but trouble, always had to adjust, wheel cyclinders would seize, etc etc, never could get them to work right for long, the discs just end up being so much easier to maintain. Just some food for thought.....
Noah
Noah
- Thread starter
- #28
Yeah, I thought about just doing the rear conversion. But to be honest, I have had very little trouble with drum brakes. I am used to working on them so maybe that is it. I guess I am just going to have to beat the hell of it. AND I really do not like that aproach but it seems like it is necessary at this juncture.
interesting, my old 1960s drums have the treaded holes and screws.
John H
[quote author=Poser link=board=1;threadid=13830;start=msg129063#msg129063 date=1080610042]
Those threaded holes are not on the drum until 09/80 when the brake system in the rear changed from two wheel cylinder to one, and the parking brake went from the back of the t-case to the rear axle braking system...
On earlier drums, I have needed to rig up a very large puller to get stubborn drums removed...
Good luck!
-Steve
[/quote]
John H
[quote author=Poser link=board=1;threadid=13830;start=msg129063#msg129063 date=1080610042]
Those threaded holes are not on the drum until 09/80 when the brake system in the rear changed from two wheel cylinder to one, and the parking brake went from the back of the t-case to the rear axle braking system...
On earlier drums, I have needed to rig up a very large puller to get stubborn drums removed...
Good luck!
-Steve
[/quote]
[quote author=Landpimp link=board=1;threadid=13830;start=msg129477#msg129477 date=1080668106]
interesting, my old 1960s drums have the treaded holes and screws.
John H
[/quote]
Maybe its something that disappeared during the 70's to reappear?
interesting, my old 1960s drums have the treaded holes and screws.
John H
[/quote]
Maybe its something that disappeared during the 70's to reappear?
My 71 has the screws, too. Maybe there are some [glow=red,2,300]aftermarket[/glow] brake drums floating about that don't have the screw holes.
My '77 had the screw holes that, ahhh... stripped. 
Lot's of aggressive pounding finally got'em loose. 2 crow bars on the inside around the wheel studs too.
I've heard of brake guys using a torch to heat the drum up with some success.
Lot's of aggressive pounding finally got'em loose. 2 crow bars on the inside around the wheel studs too.
I've heard of brake guys using a torch to heat the drum up with some success.
- Thread starter
- #33
Well....got the darn thing off. As luck would have it, the brakes loosened up over the night (not sure why or how) and I was able to pry the drum off. With a great deal of force, I could move one of the cyl's adj. nuts but that took a lot of force and thought the idea to be a bit much. So, off to get new cylinders. By the way, no threaded holes on my drums. I got lucky with the pry!
