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Cannot losen the drum cylinder adj. nut

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by Jukelemon, Mar 28, 2004.

  1. Jukelemon

    Jukelemon

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    I have one side of the rear that is sticking and I was going to adjust it to the proper tension. Well, the darn think will not budge..either cylinder. I have flat out pounded it with a hammer and knock and it will not move. Tried liquid wrench b/c I was just going to take the whole piece apart and look to see what is going on in there.

    Any suggestions?
     
  2. swank60

    swank60

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    is it the drum you're trying to get off?
     
  3. Cruiserdrew

    Cruiserdrew SILVER Star

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    I assume you mean the little star wheel on the cylinder that extends the adjuster. These things freeze up with corrosion, and in my experience cannot be unstuck without destructive force, on the work bench, in a vise. I was so frustrated with this, I bought all new wheel cylinders, and put anti-seize on the threads to prevent the corrosion in the future. Either way, unless you are lucky, it is unlikely they will break free mounted in the backing plate. Napa carries the cylinders and my local warehouse had them in stock. Oddly 3 were made in Japan and one in the US, yet they all looked the same. That is an excellent solution but will cost you a few $$.
     
  4. IDave

    IDave

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    I bet they are corroded closed, too, and that means there may be something else stuck as well. They aren't that expensive. Replace them if they are that far gone.
     
  5. Jukelemon

    Jukelemon

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    Right...BUT How in the heck do I get the drum off without being able to adjust the cylinders? It will not budge i.e. the drum is barely able to turn much less be taken off.
     
  6. Cruiserdrew

    Cruiserdrew SILVER Star

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    You probably saw this, but there are threaded holes in the drum-if you thread a 8 X 1.25 bolt in there, it acts as a puller and pulls the drum right off.
     
  7. swank60

    swank60

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    You are using another screwdriver to push down the locking lever on the star wheel, right? I know it's a stupid question, but sometimes the devil is in the details. If you are using two screw drivers (one on the lever, one to turn the wheel) and it's not working, you can do dirty, dirty, bad things...I saw someone use a come-a-long to pull the drums off of Nissan once...I mean, you're gonna have to replace stuff anyway...yank it hard enough and something is bound to give...

    I'd done this before - I think on the wife's car - you know where the little screw holes are in the drum? Find long (LONG) screws that will fit into those threads and, a few turns at a time, drive them into both sides - I don't think they'll hit anything critical if you turn them to the right spot...eventually that will seperate the drum from everything else...trick is finding a long enough bolt/screw that will do the job.
     
  8. Jukelemon

    Jukelemon

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    swank:

    According to my book, there is no release/locking lever. The sst tool for the drum basically looks like a screwdriver with a 90 degree turn to ratchet back and forth. It is unlike other drums in that matter. Drew, I do not see the threads. Where are they?

    Thanks.
     
  9. fsusteve

    fsusteve

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    [quote author=Cruiserdrew link=board=1;threadid=13830;start=msg128486#msg128486 date=1080530572]
    You probably saw this, but there are threaded holes in the drum-if you thread a 8 X 1.25 bolt in there, it acts as a puller and pulls the drum right off.
    [/quote]

    I just did this on lowtideride's 60 and it worked perfectly. Poser posted it and it saved me prolly 2 hours of cussing.
     
  10. Jukelemon

    Jukelemon

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    [quote author=fsusteve link=board=1;threadid=13830;start=msg128631#msg128631 date=1080570415]
    I just did this on lowtideride's 60 and it worked perfectly. Poser posted it and it saved me prolly 2 hours of cussing.
    [/quote]
    Good news BUT where are they?
     
  11. Jukelemon

    Jukelemon

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    [quote author=fsusteve link=board=1;threadid=13830;start=msg128631#msg128631 date=1080570415]
    I just did this on lowtideride's 60 and it worked perfectly. Poser posted it and it saved me prolly 2 hours of cussing.
    [/quote]
     
  12. fsusteve

    fsusteve

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    When you look at the drum, you have the flat headed screw that holds the drum on and there should be 2 smaller holes also on the face of the drum. I found a couple of bolts that threaded in and turned with the ratchet. The drum slide off like it had vasoline on it.
     
  13. Jukelemon

    Jukelemon

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    The flat headed screw that holds the screw drum on? You have got me confused. I did not see any screw mentioned in the FSM that needed to be unscrewed to take the drum off. I vaguely remember seeing a phillips slotted screw on the drum. Is that the one you are referring to?
     
  14. Jukelemon

    Jukelemon

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    I meant to say that holds the drum on. Not holds the screw drum on. sorry.
     
  15. fsusteve

    fsusteve

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    [quote author=Jukelemon link=board=1;threadid=13830;start=msg128642#msg128642 date=1080571116]
    The flat headed screw that holds the screw drum on? You have got me confused. I did not see any screw mentioned in the FSM that needed to be unscrewed to take the drum off. I vaguely remember seeing a phillips slotted screw on the drum. Is that the one you are referring to?
    [/quote]

    Yes, just using it as a reference point. I can take a pic real quick if you need, got a drum in the shed.
     
  16. fsusteve

    fsusteve

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    Here you go, the bolts are still in the drum that I used. Look at 4 and 10 o'clock you should see them.
     
  17. Jukelemon

    Jukelemon

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    That was very generous of you Steve. Thanks. If they are there they are not very easily found on my drums. I cannot remember anything like that on my drum. I hope they were not changed/replaced by PO.
     
  18. fsusteve

    fsusteve

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    To be honest I never really paid attention to them before and I've done lots of brake jobs on my trucks. Very neat trick, worked great.
     
  19. Jukelemon

    Jukelemon

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    Well, I looked at Napa at replacements...60.00 a piece. CCOT has them for 27.00 a piece or 100.00 for all four. BUT, in looking at CCOT;s replacements, they have a locking lever. I do not see one in my schematic in the FSM? Is there one or was this an upgrade by CCOT?

    Thanks.
     
  20. fsusteve

    fsusteve

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    I have used CCOT's wheel cylinders for years and IMHO they work fine. The locking levers aren't an issue really, because I pull the drums to adjust the brakes. I found this is easier for me and very quick.