Cannot identify 78 FJ40 Distributor (2 Viewers)

[timmyisinthewell]

This dizzy came out of my Jan '72 fj40 and per the p/n, is correct for that period per the microfiche pic. The microfiche pic covers the period 03/69 to 07/80 for the US and Canadian markets. This may help those with the tags still intact on their dizzy to see if it is correct for their year build.

 

[cvan1971man]

Which Pertronix would I use with the 69-74 Dizzy? Since there is no model number on the distributor, when I called Pertronix, they said they could not help. Any ideas?

For this distributor, would the Ignitor 1 or Ignitor 2 be best? And what model number should I order?

 

[Pighead]

Which Pertronix would I use with the 69-74 Dizzy? Since there is no model number on the distributor, when I called Pertronix, they said they could not help. Any ideas?

For this distributor, would the Ignitor 1 or Ignitor 2 be best? And what model number should I order?

The 69-74 dizzy would be vacuum retard. I would not use that dizzy if I could help it.
If we're talking about the dizzy you pictured in post #16, then, as 4Cruisers pointed out, you can use the same ignitor that I used. Probably.

 

[Grayscale]

The 69-74 dizzy would be vacuum retard. I would not use that dizzy if I could help it.

Many F-engine carbs have no 'port' to run an vac advance. Air cleaner assembly fitment gets in the way of using 2F carbs on F-intakes.

I'd be more concerned about ordering a Pertronix, when the governor weights have started to rub against their spindles rendering the original equipment distributor toast via ozone-induced corrosion. A non-aftermarket option is GM HEI.

 

[Pighead]

Many F-engine carbs have no 'port' to run an vac advance. Air cleaner assembly fitment gets in the way of using 2F carbs on F-intakes.

I'd be more concerned about ordering a Pertronix, when the governor weights have started to rub against their spindles rendering the original equipment distributor toast via ozone-induced corrosion. A non-aftermarket option is GM HEI.

True, we have not seen pics of OPs carb. I was assuming it's a '78 like his engine.
Naturally, one should always inspect for wear before putting expensive pieces in it.

 

[cvan1971man]

True, we have not seen pics of OPs carb. I was assuming it's a '78 like his engine.
Naturally, one should always inspect for wear before putting expensive pieces in it.

The carb is a holley 2 bbl. it is what came on the FJ

 

[cvan1971man]

Many F-engine carbs have no 'port' to run an vac advance. Air cleaner assembly fitment gets in the way of using 2F carbs on F-intakes.

I'd be more concerned about ordering a Pertronix, when the governor weights have started to rub against their spindles rendering the original equipment distributor toast via ozone-induced corrosion. A non-aftermarket option is GM HEI.

You speaking english?

 

[cvan1971man]

You speaking english?

How do i tell if "the governor weights have started to rub against their spindles rendering the original equipment distributor toast via ozone-induced corrosion"

 

[Grayscale]

You speaking english?

American

 

[Pighead]

The carb is a holley 2 bbl. it is what came on the FJ

Oh, I have never owned one of those. Does it have a port for a ported vacuum source?
And please stop calling it an FJ.

 

[cvan1971man]

Oh, I have never owned one of those. Does it have a port for a ported vacuum source?
And please stop calling it an FJ.

Here are some pics.

 

[Grayscale]

BTW, the distributor in question was already determined to be an advance-type

How do i tell if "the governor weights have started to rub against their spindles rendering the original equipment distributor toast via ozone-induced corrosion"

By removing the breaker plate, and inspecting the weights, springs, and nylon bushings on the cam.

The spindle on the left is toast. The governor weights ate the steel via friction and rusting.

 

[cvan1971man]

BTW, the distributor in question was already determined to be an advance-type

By removing the breaker plate, and inspecting the weights, springs, and nylon bushings on the cam.

The spindle on the left is toast. The governor weights ate the steel via friction and rusting.
View attachment 3785137

THanks, learned something new!

 

[Grayscale]

THanks, learned something new!

Is the engine side-cover in the way of the screw head which holds the breaker plate to the distributor body?

 

[Pighead]

Is the engine side-cover in the way of the screw head which holds the breaker plate to the distributor body?

I usually pull the dizzy to work on little stuff like that.

 

[Grayscale]

It is always tricky reinstalling the distributor so that it lines up with the oil pump. Doable, but it takes me a few tries to get it right. Plus you have to figure out TDC on the intake stroke for cylinder number one.

Maybe just rotating the distributor body in the block without pulling it?

 

[Pighead]

Maybe just rotating the distributor body in the block without pulling it?

You just know that you're gonna drop one of those little screws down into the dizzy and then have to pull the dizzy to turn it over and get the screw out...

 

[Pighead]

It is always tricky reinstalling the distributor so that it lines up with the oil pump. Doable, but it takes me a few tries to get it right. Plus you have to figure out TDC on the intake stroke for cylinder number one.

Figuring out TDC #1 is simplicity itself with the dizzy cap off. I stand at the middle/passenger side of the front bumper and watch the rotor and flywheel turn as I rotate the handcrank. The flywheel marks are brightly painted and easy to see from there. Re-insertion is almost as easy, only requiring a 17mm endwrench to jump the starter motor while I lean on the dizzy cap. I've done it quite a few times. That handcrank is one of my favorite tools.

 

[Grayscale]

Figuring out TDC #1 is simplicity itself with the dizzy cap off. I stand at the middle/passenger side of the front bumper and watch the rotor and flywheel turn as I rotate the handcrank. The flywheel marks are brightly painted and easy to see from there. Re-insertion is almost as easy, only requiring a 17mm endwrench to jump the starter motor while I lean on the dizzy cap. I've done it quite a few times. That handcrank is one of my favorite tools.

View attachment 3785231

My original starter has that 'bypass' feature where the coil is energized once the starter's solenoid is engaged, so, the ignition is on without the ignition switch. Yes, you could simply disconnect the starter lead (small) wire with the mid-line connector, but, you have to be informed about it first. Yes, I've felt shock from touching the distributor cap to set timing with the coil firing, with the original coil, which has less voltage than the Pertronix, but, again you have to be informed. (And who reads the "Safety First" chapter of the Hayne's Manual when it is the next to the index in the back of the book - keep away from high voltage?)

I can't see the flywheel window when I am hand-cranking the engine because my hand-crank is leather gloves grabbing the v-belt between the water pump and harmonic balancer.

The way that I've done it is by trial and error, approximating the amount of twist that the cam gear will create, and finding the right spot for the oil pump by adjusting the oil pump slot with a custom modified screwdriver to fit the hole in the block (if the engine was rotated without rotating the oil pump).

I've always

 

[cvan1971man]

The 69-74 dizzy would be vacuum retard. I would not use that dizzy if I could help it.
If we're talking about the dizzy you pictured in post #16, then, as 4Cruisers pointed out, you can use the same ignitor that I used. Probably.

Which distributor would you use?