Can this be done? I'm looking at a 3B and wondering what all is involved to make it a turbo. It's fairly high mileage (200k plus) so I'm wondering if putting a turbo onto it may shorten its life span real quick.
Can you upgrade a 3B to a 3BT
- Thread starter andrew.fletcher
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Hi Andrew,
It is very common. The 3b is supposedly really good for turbo's. As the bottom end is heavy duty and the pistons have skirt oilers. So no problem there.
The only issue is with the precombustion liners not liking the extra pressure. And could fail. But many on here have had success with low boost numbers and no negative ailments.
Search turbo on here. You will see most of the treads when you search that will come up with turbo's for 3B engines.
It is very common. The 3b is supposedly really good for turbo's. As the bottom end is heavy duty and the pistons have skirt oilers. So no problem there.
The only issue is with the precombustion liners not liking the extra pressure. And could fail. But many on here have had success with low boost numbers and no negative ailments.
Search turbo on here. You will see most of the treads when you search that will come up with turbo's for 3B engines.
- Thread starter
- #3
I've looked through most of the threads with turbos but they mostly started out as turbos. When you say low boost, how much are talking here? I'm not looking to get more than about 125hp, not sure how much boost that would translate to. Anyone got a guess on how much it would cost to turbo a 3B?
im running 123 hp with an atx turbo. the PO who put mine in paid about 2000 for the kit, installed it himself and then took it to a shop with a dyno tester for set-up.
cruiser_guy
Out of Africa / North Africa
NO 3B ever started as a turbo!! The factory turbo version for the 3B is a 13B-T which was NEVER available through Toyota Canada or Toyota USA. I put the AXT kit on my BJ60 at about 350,000 - 400,000 kms, $3000 approx. I'm now over 500,000kms. I turbo'd the 3B in the FJ55 immediately on a fresh rebuild using an AXT manifold and a Volvo turbo that I was able to pick up used as a set for $800 (most of that value is the cast manifold). The FJ45LV with the 3B will be having a turbo from the moment it's roadworthy. The FJ45LV will have a 13B-T manifold that I was given along with a Toyota MR2 turbo that I picked up for $100 and it will be rebuilt for a kit I found for $100 also and the rebuild and balancing will be under $100 here in Central America.
The one thing that bothers me with the AXT kit is that you need to do some tweaking to have the turbo clocked correctly AND be able to remove the rocker cover without removing the turbo.
There are a couple of things to watch for when turboing a 3B, or even just running one. ALWAYS use a pyrometer. Heat in the combustion chambers will crack heads and precombustion chambers with often fatal (to the engine) results. When considering a turbo the 13B-T manifold is often used but only mates to a Toyota turbo unless you get an adaptor made or buy one from a Supra specialty place. The AXT manifold is NOT available outside of their kit.
If you're interested I can let you know when I'm passing through California next and you can have a look.
Andrew, I responded to your PM but I'll post the answers to your questions here.
When Brown Bear refers to "low boost" he is likely referring to 7-10 psi. The 3B is like a new engine running those numbers, it is very happy and very safe.
As for a pyro I 100% agree. The scariest thing a LC owner can ever do is install a pyrometer on an un turbo-ed 3B. You see temperatures where the block should be melting (1400-1600 F). It really changes your driving style. With the turbo, I have to work really really hard to get it up to 1000 F.
A buddy of mine (runs a green 40 called Shaker) drove down to Rubicon and back, 1100 miles each way doing 75-80 mph pushing 38" tires, with 19 lbs of boost and running about 1200-1300 F on his pyrometer for 20 hours at a time. That's WAY more than I would ever be comfortable with, but his truck ran great and still does today. The 3B is very very strong.
Hope that helps,
Craig.
When Brown Bear refers to "low boost" he is likely referring to 7-10 psi. The 3B is like a new engine running those numbers, it is very happy and very safe.
As for a pyro I 100% agree. The scariest thing a LC owner can ever do is install a pyrometer on an un turbo-ed 3B. You see temperatures where the block should be melting (1400-1600 F). It really changes your driving style. With the turbo, I have to work really really hard to get it up to 1000 F.
A buddy of mine (runs a green 40 called Shaker) drove down to Rubicon and back, 1100 miles each way doing 75-80 mph pushing 38" tires, with 19 lbs of boost and running about 1200-1300 F on his pyrometer for 20 hours at a time. That's WAY more than I would ever be comfortable with, but his truck ran great and still does today. The 3B is very very strong.
Hope that helps,
Craig.
my concern with the speed you mentioned about your buddy pushing 38's ........when i run my truck hard 12 psi on the hwy in 4th(top gear) my fuel econemy takes a dump.........but this is light load, seems that rpm makes the boost build. so when i do 60-65 with 35's it uses tones of fuel, but is great around town. my question is the way the fuel is metered.....the vacume diaphram was not made to see boost so is it not getting over fueled with boost? even know the truck is great i can not wrap my head around the idea of that little plunger being pushed to the limit ??? i am wondering if there is a way to get my hwy fuel econemy down of at least have light shed on the heavy fuel consumption!
Andrew,
I just finished the "BIG" install things on my BJ/FJ mutation, and installed a Supra turbo on a 13BT manifold. I will be fabricating an exhaust system today, to put the final touches on the bigger stuff. I went out yesterday and climbed the road from Bonny Dune to Felton Empire Grade, I was pulling 14psi on the long steep(6%) grade when at full throttle and spinning higher RPMs(no tach) the regular climb RPMs showed 10psi and the FJ40 felt like a real truck instead of a farm tractor. Above 10psi it pulled and made sounds like it was serious about making power, and pulled harder and faster than I was willing to go. Who woulda thought that you would have to back pedal a diesel cruiser going up hill due to speed? By the way the manifold was about $450.00 shipped from G&S, the turbo was about $75.00 via eBay, the rebuild kit was $80.00 also eBay, turbo oil plumbing was $125.00 from Rabid Chimp, exhaust will cost about $300.00(got lots of extra u-bends), silicone couplers and t-bolt clamps were maybe $100.00. My time to fabricate the whole enchilada, maybe 4-5 days, which includes lots of running around to get parts and details figgered out. If you wanna see the installation up close and personal PM me and we can meet and I can pop the hood.
Good luck
eric
I just finished the "BIG" install things on my BJ/FJ mutation, and installed a Supra turbo on a 13BT manifold. I will be fabricating an exhaust system today, to put the final touches on the bigger stuff. I went out yesterday and climbed the road from Bonny Dune to Felton Empire Grade, I was pulling 14psi on the long steep(6%) grade when at full throttle and spinning higher RPMs(no tach) the regular climb RPMs showed 10psi and the FJ40 felt like a real truck instead of a farm tractor. Above 10psi it pulled and made sounds like it was serious about making power, and pulled harder and faster than I was willing to go. Who woulda thought that you would have to back pedal a diesel cruiser going up hill due to speed? By the way the manifold was about $450.00 shipped from G&S, the turbo was about $75.00 via eBay, the rebuild kit was $80.00 also eBay, turbo oil plumbing was $125.00 from Rabid Chimp, exhaust will cost about $300.00(got lots of extra u-bends), silicone couplers and t-bolt clamps were maybe $100.00. My time to fabricate the whole enchilada, maybe 4-5 days, which includes lots of running around to get parts and details figgered out. If you wanna see the installation up close and personal PM me and we can meet and I can pop the hood.
Good luck
eric
Hey,
Been studyin" the diaphram thingy in the FSM. The diaphram only sees differential pressure from the front of the trottle body and after the butterfly. The original design with the butterfly completely closed and sealing perfectly would show atmospheric pressure 14.7psi (at sea level) and 0psi after the throttle body. The diaphram was designed to see a pressure differential, the turbo would add to that total number but possibly still be within the design of the hose capability psi wise. I think the best fuel mileage would fall between the torque peak and horsepower peak.
Unfortunately work requires horsepower, and horsepower requires fuel, fact if you wanna go faster(more work), push bigger gears(more work), fuel is the currency you gotta spend. My concern is on the pre-throttle body hose when the butterfly closes the turbo pressure surges and my waste gate opens, this condition in theory would show about 28psi total absolute pressure. I am gonna hose clamp my hoses for insurance purposes and might even use some braided teflon AN hoses, if the hose clamps aren't enough.
Ola
eric
cruiser_guy
Out of Africa / North Africa
My concern is on the pre-throttle body hose when the butterfly closes the turbo pressure surges and my waste gate opens, this condition in theory would show about 28psi total absolute pressure. I am gonna hose clamp my hoses for insurance purposes and might even use some braided teflon AN hoses, if the hose clamps aren't enough.
Ola
eric
The hoses do pop off occasionally. It hasn't happened to me but it did happen to my daughter with the FJ55 3B turbo. She said it had power like she couldn't believe! It has enough power with all the hoses connected to make it to Siskiou Summit in 4th doing 60mph fully loaded! Like you say, you got to back out to avoid cooking something!
Turbo-diesel is THE way to go!!
- Thread starter
- #12
Thanks for getting me smarter on this whole turbo thing. I had no clue all turbo 3B's were homegrown. I was originally looking at a 4BD1 or BD2 but now I'm thinking the 3BT route. A lot less fabrication with a 3B and I could get most of it done in the driveway vs. having someone else do it.
Next question- Since this is going to be the family truck, baseline requirement from the CFO is an automatic. What's the best one to use?
Craig- I owe you an email. I have some other specific questions that I'm putting together.
cruiser_guy
Out of Africa / North Africa
NO 3B's that came over officially had auto tranny's. It was all H42 4 speeds up till '82 and H55 5 speeds after that. 3B's in the '60's stopped coming over officially in '85 and the BJ70 stopped in '87 I think but like I said, ALL were manual trannys. Some JDM's have auto's behind the 13B-T's but I don't know which ones they are. You'd be best calling G&S Cruiser Parts and see if they have any take outs from JDM trucks that they've parted. I wouldn't expect stellar performance from an auto though.
If it couples to a 13B-T it will be a bolt up to a 3B. They are the same block but with differences to accomodate the factory turbo.
- Thread starter
- #14
How much of a performance hit do you think I'll take. I remember reading something about the autos in the '62 series really drug them down. Do you think it's that bad or are we talking 5% or so?
cruiser_guy
Out of Africa / North Africa
I can't say for sure never having driven an auto 'Cruiser other than an HDJ81 that my daughters boyfriend had. I didn't drive his much either.
Post up a new thread and ask for opinions.
