First, both oil pans must be removed to remove oil pick up tube (which is attached to oil pump by two studs & nuts). Which pick-up tube must first be remove, to remove oil pump. Whereas pans can be removed with engine in. It very difficult and even more difficult to keep dry of oil to reseal pans with FIPG during install. With engine out those things aren't difficult.
Second:
I've yet to see a factory installed oil pump FIPG seal leak or oil pan FIPG seal for that matter. They are sealed with a the very best FIPG, at factory.
I see many timing belt tensioner bolt leaks. They always leak if removed and not sealed. I see crank seal leaks about 30% of time, after they've been replace. Yet to see either factory sealed ones leak.
You're last picture is not clear enough for me to actually see a leak. I does look a little wet and dirty, at bottom, an pan seal is glistening a tiny bit, again hard to see. Really inconclusive. Around crank sprocket looks wiped, more like not cleaned well, at time crank seal replaced. Whereas first before picture looks cleaned and perfectly dry. The tenersoner bolt does not look like a leak, but again inconclusive. If 10mm tensioner pulley assembly allen bolt not removed and not leaking before T-belt job. Than not likely leaking now.
I see in first picture, tensioner pulley removed from it's assemble, as you stated. We do not replace just pulley as a general rules. We remove to 10mm allen head bolt and replace tensioner pulley assembly. In fact in comes as an assembly, and Toyota does not even give us a torque spec for pulleys nut IIRC. It is only the threads on that 10mm allen bolt that leaks, if not sealed. As it goes through oil pump housing.
Why did you pull t-belt covers in the first place?
Did you see oil coming from weep hole? Pictures?
How many miles and how long age, since last T-belt service?
Did you wipe around crank sprocket, "before" pictures taken?
Can you get clear pictures?
Rule of thumb:
Get pictures of and wet/oily areas, study them and take more pic's if needed to clearly see before cleaning or disassembly.
Clean area spotless. taking more pictures to see/document it is spotless and dry.
Drive and inspect after each drive, to pinpoint leaks first appearance. Document with very clear pictures.
Keep in mind oil travels Up, Down and Around. Like a leak from oil filter it or oil cooler housing/bracket. The more time the more it travels.
There is a spot that weeps a bit over time. It's the O-ring at top of oil pump. Typically not bad enough to be of concern and takes about 90K miles to show at timing cover weep hole if at all. Most times we just see at top of oil pump during T-belt service. One thing that can cause this O-ring to be more of a leak and all rubber seals to leak for that matter. Is using HM oil (High Mileage oil). Use it 2 oil changes and we get bad leaks. Stuff is very bad and should never be used.
Here's the O-ring at top of oil pump. Not saying this or any below your leak/weep.
Here's back side of oil pump. Circled is where tensioner pulley assembly 10mm bolt comes through housing of oil pump.
Here's oil pick up tube attach to oil pump still on block
here's an oil filter bracket leak at block, which oil sending unit (your left upper corner) is attached to filter housing and can also leak. Oil pan front area seal (your lower left), near t-cover weep hole is wet here from bracket leak.
Here's a tensonser 10mm allen bolt leak, after cleaning a driving and watching.
