Can you make the manual choke work on a Weber Carb?

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My '79 FJ40 had a Weber 38 on it when I bought it and the manual choke cable was disconnected. I have seen Weber Carb "upgrade" kits that said they used the manual choke, I think at TPI, but I don't know if it takes special hardware or modification to the cable. I would like to be able to use the manual choke, if possible.

Does anyone know how to do this or what I would need to make it work?

Thanks!
 
I orignally planned to do the same thing because I had become so accustomed to using my manual choke for my Aisin.

I just hooked up the electric choke in the interim, and found that it works just fine and I have no desire to go back to a manual. If there's one good thing I can say about my Weber, it's that the electric choke works flawlessly. I've never actually watched it work, but I've never had any problem with cold-weather starting.
 
Perfect! That's exactly what I was looking for.

Thanks a lot for your help!
 
The electric choke works, but the RPMs seem to get higher and higher the longer it runs with the choke on. Is this just an adjustment, or is something wrong or gone bad?

Thanks!
 
Rick '79 FJ40 said:
The electric choke works, but the RPMs seem to get higher and higher the longer it runs with the choke on. Is this just an adjustment, or is something wrong or gone bad?

Thanks!


To be entirely honest, the electric choke is kind of a black box to me. I know what it does, but I'm not entirely sure how. It gets power whenever the ignition is on (+ from the coil), and I assume it must have a thermocoil or something to compensate for temperature, but I've never taken it apart to see what it does.

Sorry I couldn't be more help.

Eric
 
Rick '79 FJ40 said:
The electric choke works, but the RPMs seem to get higher and higher the longer it runs with the choke on. Is this just an adjustment, or is something wrong or gone bad?
Thanks!
The electric choke is not working. The bimetallic coil automatically closes the choke when it is cool. After the engine is started, a combination of ambient heat and the electric choke heater element cause the bimetallic to unwind, twist the choke open and drop the RPMs down. Your electric choke is not working. In this instance, after a good long time, heat radiating off the engine will heat the choke coil and cause it to open the choke sufficiently to drive.
 
I :heart: Jim.

Now if I could just find someone to explain automatic transmissions so I understand them...
 
ok I am running at 1400 rpm at idle....had some problems getting it to idle. I just replaced my coil and haven't re-messed with the dizzy or timing since. But I did have to take my choke off last week to re attach the spring properly. Could the electric choke be positioned wrong. Note- it was idling at 1400 before I took the choke off. Thanks Chuck
 
The elctric choke could be positioned wrong, so it never unwinds far enough to let down off the high idle cam.
Or the idle speed screw is just adjusted wrong.
Or the electric choke is not working.
 
Jim,

OK, here's what happens when I crank the engine:
I step on the gas all the way to the floor to set the choke. (Is this right? I've always heard to do it)
I crank the engine and the high idle is engaged, but the RPMs start rising almost immediately. I don't know what RPM it is at because I don't have a Tach (yet).
I push the gas pedal one short fast time and the carb comes off of high idle and the engine runs normally.

Can you give me some ideas about how to fix this?

Also, sometimes the choke doesn't engage, do I just need to clean up the linkage or the carb or something?

Thanks Jim!
 
Rick '79 FJ40 said:
Jim,

OK, here's what happens when I crank the engine:


Based on my newfound understanding of these things, it sounds like what would happen if you did not have power applied to the choke. Have you verified that there is +12V at the tab on the choke when the ignition is on?
 

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