


I would say, make sure that you have no leaks or blockages and that the cut off on the IP is functioning, then if the problem persists, fit a lift pump. If this solves the problem, then you may have a weak IP fuel pump.
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what would be the downside of fitting an electric lifter in the line before the filter and primer. If the primer is leaking the positive pressure would make this obvious if its the lifter mounted on the standard linear pump that is at fault will an additional pump help it or hinder? My primer is a cylindrical one that mounts on top of the filter I think it can be blocked and the electric lifter pump used to bleed the system. Thanks for the facebook link
The other question that springs to mind is why the primer is worn out in the first place. Often its because the owner, in the mistaken belief he needs to pump furiously to get air out, only to find the air has leaked back in from somewhere while he is walking to the ignition key. If the problem is sorted, the primer only needs to be used when changing a filter once or twice a year.
Toyota designed these fuel systems to be simple and able to be fixed in the field.
The old primers often leak when they've sat. You unscrew them, pump, and they leak fuel everywhere, then when you shut them they no longer seal and are a source of an air leak. 2/3 I've used leaked... including the one on my 15BFT.
The Coaster 15BFT primer is on the top of the fuel filter housing at the front of the engine. It's not the same as the usual one on the fuel feed/lift pump, it has a larger thread. I couldn't find an aftermarket one the right size and could only find 1 supplier that stocked them. It appears the usual style may fit on the lift/feed pump but the fuel return line or something is in the way. I assume they put it on top to be accessible by a service hatch when the engine is installed in a bus?
Some good suggestions on here - clamp and remove fuel feed and return lines, run from a fresh raised fuel supply, replace fuel filter, check primer doesn't leak, check fuel inlet banjo screen/filter, remove vac line from shut down, if it still doesn't want to stay running it needs to go to a specialised diesel mech to get a compression test and then an expensive injection pump repair...
There is no return line back to the filter, they all go back to the tank to cool the fuel.
I dont see why an engine would need a compression test because it wont start or keep running. If it was that bad it would be smoking like a steam train and you wouldnt bother with a compression test for its next life as a boat anchor.
And you can do it yourself, its easy, you dont need a specialised diesel mechanic. I sincerely doubt it needs "expensive internal injection pump repair"
Its either an electrical fuel cut off or an air problem.
Buts its also a time problem. You need to spend lots of time isolating the problem and checking the components of the fuel supply. Thats all you would be paying a diesel mechanic to do at $100 an hour.
Hi MiloHi there, I'm new to this site and not very mechanically minded and I'm looking for some advice from anybody that can help. I have a 1999 Ceatano optimo 4 bus with a 15BFT engine. The engine cut out recently as if out of fuel, the engine will restart and run for a few seconds and then just fades again. I have had 2 mechanics look at it but without success. Does anybody have any ideas please. P.S. it had plenty of fuel.
Hi Milo
I found a bosch primer online not sure if it will fit but at less than £10 it's worth a punt. Should turn up this week I will advise if it fits. It would be a good starting point and well within the capabilities of any DIYer
This one comes with an adapter ring which although may not work looks fairly close, will advise later in the weekRead my reply above, the usual Bosch primer pump that Landcruiser owners recommend goes on the fuel feed pump attached to the injector pump. The primer which goes on the fuel filter housing on a Coaster 15BFT is physically larger and has a larger thread. I already tried.
You should crack the bleeder screw, then pump the primer, once fuel is clear push primers down and screw in to lock and then tighten bleeder.
Many people try forcing the primer down but never actually lock in position.
Conversely if your unit is in good shape your primer will be hard to pump almost instantly, so crack the bleeder and then tighten.
Yes the top may leak but once tightened it should be good.
We've run hundreds of diesels in mining and I've had my share of leaking primers, once locked they normally offered a good days work.
Are you making any progress Milo?