can someone resolve a question about retorquing head bolts on a 2F?

[T.D. Smith]

I'm working on doing a vavle adjustment and head bolt retorque, and I came across some contradictory advice when I searched "retorquing head bolts". Under the post titled" Head bolt retorque - warm or cold" it was suggested that this should be done on a warm engine before adjusting the valves. Under "Valve adjustment and head bolt retorque " the opposite was suggested. Anyone else want to weigh in on this? Also, should the rocker arm bolt adj. be done warm or cold.

Another problem I have run into is how to get to the #1 bolt in the tightening order listed in the Haynes manual (it's the one in the center of the head that is slightly offset from the other 6 on the passenger side). It sits directly under the rocker arm rod, and I can't even get my #19 socket on it let alone the torque wrench. I can't imagine I need to take off the whole rocker assembly to do this. It there a special kind of low profile torque wrench, or am I just over-looking some obvious (or not so obvious) trick. Thanks for the help!

 

[Degnol]

I'm working on doing a vavle adjustment and head bolt retorque, and I came across some contradictory advice when I searched "retorquing head bolts". Under the post titled" Head bolt retorque - warm or cold" it was suggested that this should be done on a warm engine before adjusting the valves. Under "Valve adjustment and head bolt retorque " the opposite was suggested. Anyone else want to weigh in on this? Also, should the rocker arm bolt adj. be done warm or cold.

Another problem I have run into is how to get to the #1 bolt in the tightening order listed in the Haynes manual (it's the one in the center of the head that is slightly offset from the other 6 on the passenger side). It sits directly under the rocker arm rod, and I can't even get my #19 socket on it let alone the torque wrench. I can't imagine I need to take off the whole rocker assembly to do this. It there a special kind of low profile torque wrench, or am I just over-looking some obvious (or not so obvious) trick. Thanks for the help!

For the #1 bolt you can use a crow's foot, but it changes the torque reading.
Right or wrong, I've retorqued the head cold, then retorque the rocker assembly, then adjust the valves warm.
.02

Ed

 

[T.D. Smith]

Thanks Ed. I was thinking about cutting down the socket and using a universal joint to attach it to the torque wrench, but I'm sure that would affect the torque reading more than the crows foot (not to mention being more of a hassle). So do you just go by feel more or less, or have you compared torque settings with the crows foot and w/o by removing the rocker assembly?

Tad

 

[Pighead]

I take the rocker assembly off to re-torque that center bolt. I torque the head bolts with the engine hot.

 

[lc69hunter]

I take the rocker assembly off to re-torque that center bolt. I torque the head bolts with the engine hot.

I do the same.

 

[Fuzzy Logic]

I read on this forum someone stated to torque 10lbs over the FSM values cold and forget it