Can I remove Panhard rod safely?

[Eric_FJ40]

Just went outside and looked at the mount. Damn that thing is beefy! Not much room to work in there though. I think if it were me I would enlarge the small existing hole to the point where I could get a wrench on the nut. Then I would take the bolt out, apply some loc-tite, and tighten that sucker down as hard as I could. I'm not an expert welder, but I have a decent amount of experience. Enough to know that getting an effective weld on that nut is going to be extremely difficult, if not impossible.

Ary

You talking about the small drain hole on the bottom? My mount is basically closed except for a slot on the top that is mostly covered by the spring perch. This is on a '91 - are newer Cruisers different? Let me see if I can go out and snap some photos...

 

[Arya Ebrahimi]

Yup, the drain hole. I think it would take a good bit of work with a grinder or a torch to open it up enough to get a wrench in there.

I didn't see any openings on the top of the axle, but I was looking at it without physically getting under the truck since I'm not in wrenching clothes.

Ary

 

[Arya Ebrahimi]

BTW, if you turn off the ignition and make sure the steering locks in place, the truck really shouldn't shift much, if at all, since the steering will be hold it in place. I used this method many times on my old Jeep. Just don't turn the ignition on for music and then remove the panhard bolt.....

Ary

 

[Eric_FJ40]

BTW, if you turn off the ignition and make sure the steering locks in place, the truck really shouldn't shift much, if at all, since the steering will be hold it in place. I used this method many times on my old Jeep. Just don't turn the ignition on for music and then remove the panhard bolt.....

Ary

D'OH! I never even thought of that - of course, the steering linkage will hold it side-to-side while the panhard is disconnected.

It always takes another set of eyes to see all of the options!

Here's a photo:

 

[cruiserdan]

I would suggest that you try to tack the nut before you remove the bolt and arm. It will be difficult to place the nut in the proper orientation otherwise.

D-

 

[Arya Ebrahimi]

Probably be pretty hard to remove the bolt with a loose nut anyway.

Have you tried wiggling a wrench down in that slot? is it at all possible?

Ary

 

[Eric_FJ40]

so far, all I've been able to do is jam a screwdriver down in there to immobilize the nut and tighten. The slot was too narrow for my wrench to fit in...

 

[IdahoDoug]

Couple thoughts on this:

1 - I've had to customize tools in the past for wierd things like this. If you heated and bent the proper size open end wrench, could you get it in there? Get a cheap one and make your tool.

2 - Rather than tack weld the bolt, could you simply make a piece of steel that would basically prevent the nut from turning just like you've been using your screwdriver, but then easily tack weld THIS in place? In other words, a steel tab that goes down in there to contact a flat of the nut, and the other end of the tab sticks up out of that slot where you can secure it with and easy weld. Kinda like "staking" the wheel bearing nuts with those locking tabs.

Posting the picture was a good call.

DougM

 

[Big_Moose]

Second Dan's thought..........I would try to align the nut so you can tac the top, and then weld in at least one side / facet of the nut on the bottom. Then I would go back and try to put a longer weld on the top.

I would suggest that you try to tack the nut before you remove the bolt and arm. It will be difficult to place the nut in the proper orientation otherwise.

D-

 

[Eric_FJ40]

Thanks for all of the comments, guys:

Looks like I need to try to immobilize that nut one way or the other. I'll see if I can find someone to try welding it in there - but IdahoDoug has some good ideas too. Thanks to Arya's insight - I think I'll be fine taking it off since the steering linkage will hold everything nicely.

Eric