Calling the experts... Torsion Bar Woes...

[SS100]

I'd appreciate some opinions from the knowledgeable folks on the forum.

It's a 2003 with the following suspension:

• OME 60001 and 60003 Shocks
• OME Torsion Bars
• TJM 770RSHD80B Rear Springs. Why these and not OME Springs? I like them better as they are kind of "in the middle" between OME 864 and 863 regarding cargo capacity (harshness) but they are longer than the 864, so no spacer is needed. They are rated for a 440 pound constant (extra over oem) load.
• Slee Diff Drop Kit
• SPC Upper Control Arms

Having owned several 60/70 and 80 Series, this Hundy is my first IFS truck. And even though I like the confort and ride very much, I am having "height" issues due to (I believe?) the torsion bars.

It is not a matter of the IFS being stout enough or capable enough, which I believe it is for what I use this truck (DD and overland travel with the family. It does see it's fair share of off-road, and even though it will eventually go on some off-road park to some tougher stuff, it is not it's main purpose).

My beef with the Torsion Bars is that I have not been able to get what I consider a decent height at the front. I've seen lots and lots of pics of 100 Series on mud that seem to have a couple more inches than mine.

For reference, with an empty truck (no camping gear, full tank of gas) the measurement from the fender lip to the center hub is as follows:

• FRONT: 20 inches
• REAR: 23 and 1/2 inches.

So I'm wondering if there might me something wrong with these particular set of torsion bars, or maybe I should check something else on my truck (maybe I did something wrong during installation?)

I appreciate your help and comments!

Build thread here: 100 Series Build - Proper Family Hauler (but you can read on for a transcript and more detailed info)

I like the ride quality of the OME Heavy Shocks + TJM Springs. It feels just how I expected it to feel and perform. It is a harsher ride than normal, maybe too harsh for some people when the truck is unloaded? I'm used to it and I do not like soft "boat-feeling-style" suspensions. Besides, when the truck is loaded down with gear it is very plush and confortable.

The OME Torsion Bars OTHO I'm not satisfied with.

When I first installed the suspension kit, without a front bumper, the truck had a decent lift front and back. But when I put the front bumper and winch (one week later), the front came down. WAY down. It actually had the same clearance as it had with the OEM Torsion Bars (which I never cranked to get more height out of, since I installed the OME suspension one week after the larger tires). It was so low in fact, that I decided to take the winch out. It came up a little, but I still feel it is too low.

The torsion bars where installed correctly the first time, with the control arms totally extended to get the maximum height out of them and the adjusting bolt was un-screwed all the way out.

After I took out the winch, I decided to re-index them as I believe they settled a little (like any spring would do after a while) and I did manage to get some extra degrees out of them. (two notches to be exact)

But still, I do not have the height I want in the front. (Currently I DO NOT have a winch, I do not have a dual battery set up, and I have the Savannah Bumper without a chrome hoop, so I do not believe the front is too heavy).... For reference, if I wanted to fit 295 tires, they would NOT fit even for driving on the street (no off road).

I will try re-indexing the torsion bars one more time, maybe they have settled even more after the Big Bend trip... But if I don't get what I consider to be a decent height in the front, I'll look into replacing them with something else (a friend said that he once got a bad set of torsion bars and they where exchanged, but they where not OME, it was some other brand).

For reference, with an empty truck (no camping gear, full tank of gas) the measurement from the fender lip to the center hub is as follows:

• FRONT: 20 inches
• REAR: 23 and 1/2 inches.

The adjusting bolt is cranked all the way in. I have 60mm Droop on Driver's Side and 50mm Droop on passenger side (could not get the ideal 55mm on the passenger without lowering the from even more)

It will sit a little lower in the back once it get the drawer set and rear bumper... Maybe half an inch to one full inch lower? But I still believe the rake to be too much.

Here is a pic of the truck unloaded with a full tank of gas. NO winch.

 

[re_guderian]

You could re-index your torsion bars for a little more lift, but you're about maxed out on OEM control arms based on the droop and the fender measurements. Lower the back to level, or embrace the stinkbug. Or go aftermarket UCA up front for a bit more travel (and some other issues). You have met the bane of the 100 series...

 

[SS100]

You could re-index your torsion bars for a little more lift, but you're about maxed out on OEM control arms based on the droop and the fender measurements. Lower the back to level, or embrace the stinkbug. Or go aftermarket UCA up front for a bit more travel (and some other issues). You have met the bane of the 100 series...

Oh no! LOL!

Thanks for your reply, and taking the time to read!

I do have aftermarket UCAs. Made by SPC .

I have already re-indexed once after installation of OME Torsion Bars.

I will re-index one more time to see if the bars settled a bit since last time. But I do plan on putting a winch on and although I've scratched the idea of my venerable Ramsey 15.000 in favor of a lighter option with synthetic line, it will still add a fair amount of weight to the front end.

If heavier Torsion Bars from another vendor do not lift the front up enough, is it possible to do a body lift only in the front? Or it has to be done front and back to keep things level on the frame?

 

[lead62]

Look at Slee's site and how they say to install the bars. They have detailed directions. Also check the numbers on your torsion bars to make sure you got the ones for the 2.5 inch heavy lift. There is a good write up here on re-indexing the torsion bars in FAQ. It also shows how to reset the adjusters so you can crank the new bars.

 

[re_guderian]

Whoops, missed the SPC's! You should definitely try reindexing. I have a pair of OME torsion bars sitting on my floor because they were WAY too stiff with just a TJM bumper and no winch...

 

[SS100]

@re_guderian and @lead62

Thanx for your suggestions/comments.

I installed (and then re-indexed) the TBs as per Slee's site and the PDF write up I downloaded from the FAQ. (Excellent stuff!). That's why I'm clue-less about the clearance I have, which I am sure is too little even with the limitations the TBs have in the first place.

If I understand correctly, you both point out there might be several types of TBs from Old Man Emu?

I checked ARB's Application Guide and there are only two types available. Both rated for over 75 kgs (165 lbs)....

• Part # 303001 Suits V8 Models (Meaning UZJ Engine)
• Part # 303002 Suits Turbo Diesel Model

The ones I have are the 303001. But I do NOT have 165 pounds on that front end to have it sag the way it is sagging. Remember the clearance was ok before I installed the ARB Sahara Bumber.

I'll look into this deeper, it totally makes sense that there should be different load capacity TBs, just like there are coil springs. But their catalog does not show any information.

@re_guderian would it be possible to check on the Part # of the TBs you have? Thx!

For reference, here is a pic of the truck with the complete suspension, sans front bumper. I didn't think to take any measurements, but you can see the height in the front is at least 1-2 inches more than it is now.

 

[ad27326]

Oh no! LOL!

Thanks for your reply, and taking the time to read!

I do have aftermarket UCAs. Made by SPC .

I have already re-indexed once after installation of OME Torsion Bars.

I will re-index one more time to see if the bars settled a bit since last time. But I do plan on putting a winch on and although I've scratched the idea of my venerable Ramsey 15.000 in favor of a lighter option with synthetic line, it will still add a fair amount of weight to the front end.

If heavier Torsion Bars from another vendor do not lift the front up enough, is it possible to do a body lift only in the front? Or it has to be done front and back to keep things level on the frame?

SS100, I have wondered the same about the body lift, can anyone answer this?

 

[Skidoo]

The droop number is telling you that for the suspension you have it is as high as it can go.
Any higher and ride suffers and you risk damage to components. To go higher you will need to fabricate a custom front suspension.

On a front only body lift you are in fabrication mode also, since you will need varying height pucks from front to back. Easy to modify the pucks not so easy to figure out height for each, but doable with careful thought. Then since the body and radiator will be canted in relation to frame and engine you will need check clearances on a bunch of stuff in engine compartment.

 

[SS100]

@Skidoo Thanks for the reply.

I see what you say... My adjusting bolts are cranked to the max, but even if I could still turn them some more to gain extra clearance, the suspension settings would be wrong, causing other problems.

From what you say, my not so bright idea for a "Front only" body lift is scratched. I'd rather go with a shorter coil spring in the rear and do a complete body lift as I'm sure there are "kits" on the market for this that will take the guesswork out of the job.

So, does anybody know if there are different part numbers for the OME Torsion Bars in different load capacities?

I'm still confused as to why the front went down so much with only a front bumper. The TBs I have are rated for 165 pounds and that bumper does not weigh 165 pounds.

 

[HFDPNL]

Aside from the minimum droop # of 50mm down travel......
If you are running out of TB adjuster bolt thread, then you almost definitely need to re-clock again more aggressively.
We had to re-clock my brother's LX twice to get the desired height/adjustment. He only has a Sahara front bumper and we maxed the droop at 50mm with the bumper on, even so, there is quite a bit of rake with nothing in the trunk and no rear bumper. He's riding on 295 BFGs.
I had to add a spacer to my 860s to return some rake to mine after adding the Slee rear and other rear weight to allow it to be level when loaded with gear.

Your pic without the bumper looks correct.

Did you reset the ride height/droop after you put the bumper on, or are you saying you run out of adjustment trying to reset it?

 

[SWUtah]

Here is mine OME Slee installed with diff drop. When I dropped it off Slee asked if I perfered level or butt in the air. I picked level. The springs are in my signature. Mine rides perfect, tracks perfect tires wear perfect. Slee installed mine at around 120k miles it now has 140k. I suggest you call Slee and ask him.

 

[lead62]

Load the back with weight and check rake. How much lift did you get in front over stock.
Try iron man tbars. I have only heard good things about their products.

 

[SS100]

@HFDPNL Thanks for your reply.

I re-indexed the TBs after the bumper was on.
The pic without a bumper was taken one week after the OME TBs were installed.
One week after that I installed the bumper + winch and re-indexed the TBs
After one week, I decided to take out the winch but have not re-indexed a second time (or third if you count installation).
I'll do that this week as you suggest and see what happens.

 

[SS100]

@SWUtah thank for your reply. Your truck's front wheel clearance looks exactly how I expected mine to be.
I'll re-index the TBs one more time to see if they might have settled and I get more height. That's my last option.
Calling Slee is a good idea. They have excellent customer service and have helped me in the past.

 

[SS100]

@lead62 Regarding lift (in the front) I have about one inch over stock. I am sure I should be able to get more. Expected at least 2?

When loaded with full camping gear for one week and RTT, the rear will come down about 1/2 an inch... Keep in mind the build is still in process and I still have not installed a rear bumper or drawers. The rear coil springs where chosen to accommodate this weight also, so at present, rake should be a little higher than "normal"... I figure when all accessories are in place, the rear end will come down about 1/2 inch.
So loaded, there would be about 2 and 1/2 inches difference between front and rear. (Which IMO is too much)
BUT a winch and (maybe) second battery are still missing on the front.

I think the current rake is not so big of a deal, because it can always be fixed with shorter coil springs if I see there is still too much of a difference once all accessories are in place, but my appreciation is that the front is still too low. Even if I put shorter coil springs.

 

[lead62]

Odd. Let us know what slee thinks and if you find the problem.

 

[DirtDawg]

I think re-indexing again will do you a lot of good. Let us know how it goes.

 

[SS100]

Will do.

 

[abuck99]

SS100

I also wondered if there were TB's available with different spring rates- unfortunately the detailed information is not forthcoming on manufacturer websites to be able to compare. Generally I found there are simply TB's for gas models and diesel models (which are not interchangeable). So its pretty much 1 option available from each brand for gas models. I ordered the Ironman Tbs yesterday. If you have any questions about those, ping me.

 

[Skidoo]

Just for your information, I have OME T-bars, SPC UCA and ICON Stage 3 shocks. My center hub to fender lip is 20.5 inches.