C-Clip popped off of driver side CV axle. Need advice before buying new C-clip. (1 Viewer)

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Posting here has become a ritual of sorts at this point. 2004 Lexus LX470 is the car in question.

So, if you've been following my past few threads, then you'll know I just finished replacing front driver side CV axle with a used one. Well I didn't buy a new c-clip and apparently the C-clip is a non-reusable part according to Toyota. I was able to pull that axle with my bare hands out far enough to get the C-clip well seated (i think) on the groove. Well after driving about 50 miles and basically taking the car on its maiden voyage 2 days ago, I was coming home, going around 70mph, and I hear a pop and clink like a bottle cap hit the skid plate and I knew right then and there that the c-clip popped off and was sitting in the dust cap. Kept driving the car like normal (no CDL activated). Next morning, open dust cap, c-clip is sitting inside and the CV axle end is now flush with the surface of hub flange.

My questions are:

1. Just how far out from surface of flange is the end of the axle meant to be? I've seen pics and videos of it and the end of the CV axle doesn't stick out all that much but I literally had to bury my feet in the ground and pull that axle like I was in a tug-o-war for my life just to get that c-clip on.

2. If I compressed the c-clip with a set of pliers and shoved it back on, would it hold? Should I just get a new one? Given how bad the CV axle wants to be flush with the flange, will a new C-clip even hold it against all that torque and vibration when driving?

3. I heard there's a way to help hold the CV axle out (while you put the c-clip on) by using an 8 or 12 mm bolt and screwing it into the hole at the end of the axle? Is that true? How would that work?

I know I'm probably asking stupid questions, but after nearly imploding the power steering system via a botched hose installation and tap attempt, I want to be sure of everything before I do anything. And this used CV axle is shady at best.
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In this last pic you can see metal shavings inside the hole where that bolt people were talking about is meant to thread into, does this mean something has already worn away?
 
Update: there seems to be no new c-clips in the market and the only place to hopefully get them would be the toyota dealerships for obscene amounts. I went ahead and squeezed the c-clip together using a pair of pliers and a 14 inch pipe wrench. C-clip has come together quite nicely, might re-use it and see what happens.
 
Yes that hole filled with gak and swarf is the 8mm hole you can screw a bolt into, I've seen people use a steering wheel puller sort of thing to pull the bolt out to get that clip on. Otherwise what I've done is just get some vice grips on the bolt and pull it (better yet get someone else to pull it) while you have fun putting the circlip on, it should be tight and seat well into the groove around the cv no more no less. New one from Toyota are around $1~ and come in various thickness, you can get a bunch and just use the one that fits nicest or measure it up. Also when installing the cap put a blob of grease inside it
 
Duly noted, thanks!
 
If the C-clip popped off on it's own, AND you still have mushy brakes, you really need to do the following.

1. Remove the axle.
2. Inspect VERY CLOSELY for spline wear on the axle and mating surface of the hub flange. If they aren't pristine, you need to replace them (sorry).
3. When installing the 1st spindle nut after the hub, crank that b!tch as tight as you can. Trust me on this step. Do not use an air gun or battery powered tool.
4. Loosen the spindle nut and proceed to follow FSM directions precisely. Make sure the step for the spider clip is followed to the letter.

You've had a lot of issues at the FL corner, I suggest you triple check everything against posted pics in this forum.

5. Reinstall and drive. Problem solved and brake mushiness should disappear.
 
If you installed that c clip by pulling the axle out “with your bare hands,” then you did not pull the axle out far enough. Need to make yourself an axle puller — cost me about $5 at Home Depot for some 1x1 wood, three bolts, three nuts, and a few fender washers. Will attach some pics from when I did mine.

Get the c-clips in all 5 sizes from Toyota and return the ones you don’t use. Should be only $1.50 to $3 each. Install the thickest one that will fit and confirm with a feeler gauge that the gap to the flange is <0.2mm (I think that is the spec, but the smaller the better). I suspect your old c-clip was too thin which is why it popped off.

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3. I heard there's a way to help hold the CV axle out (while you put the c-clip on) by using an 8 or 12 mm bolt and screwing it into the hole at the end of the axle? Is that true? How would that work?

Remove a bolt from the skid plate and install it to the end of the CV axle.

Use a Gooseneck Wrecking Bar or something similar to pull the axle. Placing the wrecking bar on lug nut has worked well for me. You will need a wood block if you don't want to use lug nut as a pivot.

 
If your dealer is far away or doesn't allow return, then measure the gap and the thickness of your current snap ring to figure out what size you need. I have used 2.4 mm on used OEM axles, and 2.8 mm on pretty new aftermarket axles.

Outer axle snap ring (hub flange snap ring) is sold separately. It comes in 6 sizes. of .2mm increments from 1.8mm to 2.8mm thickness. Use very tightest you can fit. I use 2.4 & 2.6mm the most.

Snap ring hub flange:
90520-31010 RING, SNAP 1.8mm G
90520-31009 RING, SNAP 2.0mm F
90520-31008 RING, SNAP 2.2mm E
90520-31007 RING, SNAP 2.4mm D
90520-31006 RING, SNAP 2.6mm C
90520-31005 RING, SNAP 2.8mm B
 
Thanks to everyone for the replies. I'll see what I can do concerning getting the c-clip on properly. I'll be ordering a new CV axle, flange, and c-clip all OEM spec after October as i'm pretty sure the CV axle and flange have already chewed away at each other.
If the C-clip popped off on it's own, AND you still have mushy brakes, you really need to do the following.

1. Remove the axle.
2. Inspect VERY CLOSELY for spline wear on the axle and mating surface of the hub flange. If they aren't pristine, you need to replace them (sorry).
3. When installing the 1st spindle nut after the hub, crank that b!tch as tight as you can. Trust me on this step. Do not use an air gun or battery powered tool.
4. Loosen the spindle nut and proceed to follow FSM directions precisely. Make sure the step for the spider clip is followed to the letter.

You've had a lot of issues at the FL corner, I suggest you triple check everything against posted pics in this forum.

5. Reinstall and drive. Problem solved and brake mushiness should disappear.
Mushy brakes were solved with a simple bleeding, I suppose the c-clip just couldn't hold the CV axle right.
 
Well, after compressing the c-clip and sticking it back on, it popped right back off again. I'll probably just keep driving the car as-is and when this CV axle dies, i'll switch to using the CDL as I was doing before. New CV axle with hub flange and c-clip and seals will be ordered soon, i'll likely make a post asking what and what I need to order as I've seen there are quite some seals and bushings(?) to replace when replacing the CV axle.

Just so I can stop being paranoid, the axle is sitting properly in the pictures below right? It's not meant to be sticking out more than this? (the yellow thing is grease from the dust cap and yes the compressed c-clip is sitting in it's groove in the pics)
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You need to pull the axle out more so the c clip sits in the groove.
 
Okay, i'll go at it again.
 
You need to pull the axle out more so the c clip sits in the groove.
Agreed. It definitely doesn't look like it's down in the groove. You need to pull the axel out with a puller, or just put a bolt in the end of the axel and find some other improvised way of prying it. It has to be ALL THE WAY out before snapping that ring in place.

One other possibility is that the snap ring is too thick. If all of your pulling on the axle doesn't get you there, you may have to step down to one of the thinner snap rings. If you need to do that, don't skimp. Just buy them all to have on hand, or you might regret it.
 
Just so I can stop being paranoid, the axle is sitting properly in the pictures below right? It's not meant to be sticking out more than this? (the yellow thing is grease from the dust cap and yes the compressed c-clip is sitting in it's groove in the pics)
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20210907_192140.jpg

It looks okay to me. Snap ring appears to be seated properly.
 
It looks okay to me. Snap ring appears to be seated properly.
When I did this job, my snap ring settled down to about flush with the narrow end of the chamfer on the hub flange. I think it's a little bit difficult to tell from the perspective of their photo, but if you look at the sides rather than top of the snap ring, it appears to be flush with the wider portion of the chamfer. Just my observations.
 
Okay. I put on the used clip I bought. Drove 200+ kilometers (124+ miles) to the airport and back home, pulling speeds upward of 140 kph (87 mph) and entering lots of speed-bumps and potholes at moderate speed, and the clip surprisingly held on perfectly.
Here's what the clip looked like when I put it on this morning (before the drive to airport), I screwed in a 12mm (head of bolt is 12mm) bolt into the end of the axle which I took from the skid plate as @medtro suggested (thank you), and got someone to (carefully) grab the threaded part of the bolt with a set of pliers, and, while also pulling the midsection of the axle with one hand, (carefully) pull that bolt outward for their life. I was able to slip the c-clip on with two flat-head screwdrivers.
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Here's to hoping that it sticks on! :cheers: :cheers:
 
They sell 5 sizes of c clips. Buy a pair of each size and have them handy. It doesn't appear fully and freely seated to me, but my vision sucks.
 
I'll be sure to buy a set when buying everything new and OEM.
 

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