bypassing rear heater hoses?

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I just did that work and what a pita. Thanks to my lovely wife and her small hands I have now bypass of rear heater. My lines were so rusted that it was matter of time for a leak. Truck spend its life in New England so rust is what holds those lines together right now.

Now, next year I am planning on replacing those lines, anybody had success with replacing them while engine is still in the truck ?
 
Brunt Force Trauma said:
I was only able to get half way through this today. I bypassed one side. Is there any issue with driving it like this for a day? I plan on getting to the other side this weekend.
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Are you serious? The stock set up is a sealed system, with 2 loops. You can't drive it with an un-attached hose on either loop unless you want to lose all your coolant going down the road. The bypass eliminates one of the loops, but what is left needs to be sealed up.
 
Bump for an old thread...what about plumbing up my onboard shower into the rear heater lines when I bypass them???
 
calfj60 said:
Bump for an old thread...what about plumbing up my onboard shower into the rear heater lines when I bypass them???
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Have you got a link or pic of your onboard shower? If it hooks into your heater hoses for heating the shower water, it might be possible. I'd sure want it to be pre-tested to be trouble free, though. I'd hate smelling like Prestone afer a shower! :hillbilly:
 
Just planning on running the plate style... Need the hot water to warm the shower water.... It's been done a bunch but figure why not splice into the rear heater lines
 
calfj60 said:
Just planning on running the plate style... Need the hot water to warm the shower water.... It's been done a bunch but figure why not splice into the rear heater lines
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I've got mine bypassed and only 2 problems I can think of that might come up. Where would you tap into it?

1st problem: Except for the original junctions (now removed in mine) in the engine compartment, the lines are a PITA to get to.

2nd problem: After tapping into the system it is now part of the cooling system and any leaks could render your rig stranded if they go unnoticed. You'd also want to shield the new lines as much as possible because they would be fragile.

If you got a good system in mind already, you might have already solved these 2 possible issues. Post some pics when you're done, I'm curious :hhmm: Good luck :cheers:
 
80t0ylc said:
I've got mine bypassed and only 2 problems I can think of that might come up. Where would you tap into it?

1st problem: Except for the original junctions (now removed in mine) in the engine compartment, the lines are a PITA to get to.
You happen to have a picture??
2nd problem: After tapping into the system it is now part of the cooling system and any leaks could render your rig stranded if they go unnoticed. You'd also want to shield the new lines as much as possible because they would be fragile.
I'm going with a build that I have read a bunch about and will be putting a valve inline to shut off the shower if they leak causing the original cooling system to be isolated.
If you got a good system in mind already, you might have already solved these 2 possible issues. Post some pics when you're done, I'm curious :hhmm: Good luck :cheers:
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thanks and will post if it works :p
 
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calfj60 said:
thanks and will post if it works :p
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Two docs that you might reference, 1st shows two junctions in heater hose that you'll need to find to remove rear heater connections and use for your shower heater. 2nd is how my system looks now that these are bypassed:
R_HEATER_BYPASS_DELETE.webp
FZJ80Coolinghoses1.webp
 
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