Bypass Filter and other ramblings

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Joined
Oct 13, 2003
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Last night I sat down with the FSM and spent some quality time reading the engine section. Was looking for an oil pressure take off and return spot for a bypass oil filter. The best I can come up with is to T off the "oil pressure switch" at the oil cooler and return to a drain plug taped for a banjo fitting. Is this oil pressure switch Toyota speak for pressure sending unit or is it an actual switch and the sending unit is seperate ? If its a sending unit I don't mind feeding a bypass filter at this point. If its a low oil pressure switch I would rather not induce the time delay into what ever system is being switched. Any feedback from the guru's

Now the rambling part... holy crap are these engines well designed. I am a mechanical engineer by trade, a weekend wrench by choice, and grew up on a farm taking apart everything from 5 HP briggs and stratons to 1150 CI Cummins engines. I have never seen another gas motor that has 6 combinations of select fit pistons on the production line, not to mention piston oil cooling jets. Some diesels out there don't have piston oil cooling... Keeps your 80's boys they don't get any better.
 
I never have noticed that pressure switch, I have been all over that area, but there is it in the FSM, the sender for the gage is a few inches foreword of the cooler, not sure what the switch does, I'll looked in the EWD found some references to its location and the harness that leads to it but not what is looking at it. As long as the passage leading to the switch is larger than the restriction in the bypass filter (.040” for an oil guard) then the bypass filter tap will have no effect on the pressure the switch see’s

I was planning of tapping off the sender. I was hoping to find a threaded drilling plug like there was on my Chevy. So far I have not found one on the 1FZ.

The lower oil pan is fairly simple to remove I was planning on dropping it and drilling for a bulkhead fitting for return. A fitting on the drain plug is more exposed to damage.

Instigator has a pretty clean install; he put in a sandwich adapter on the filter for the source and return to the oil cap through a swivel (I did same for return on the chevy)


And yes the 1FZ is a very well thought out motor
 
If its an actual hobbs type switch the bypass filter won't impact the pressure it sees steady state but the time may mess with something.

Lets say its a "wait to start for oil pressure on cranking" switch (Had an M5 with that feature...) T'ing the bypass filter into that signal would do nasty things to cranking times. Ditti if the oil pressure sending unit is on the same oil passage.

Somebody tell me more about the sandwich adapter...
 
I don't think it is a “wait before start” switch as after an oil change my 80 fires long before it gets oil pressure, on normal start oil pressure still lags fire.

As for timing as long as the bypass filter is full of oil (will be except for after change) it will still have almost no effect on when oil pressure comes up. The amount of oil that gets past a .040" restriction is quite low compared to the total flow, especially on start with thick oil.

When I get a chance I'll look in the EWD again and try to find what that switch does.

A sandwich adapter is a block of metal added between the filter and block that allows access to the oil flow.

A lot of people on BITOG use permacool sandwich adapters because they are easy. both connections to the bypass filter are made right there, they were originally designed for oil coolers, they have 2 ports, it makes a loop, all of the oil is suppose to go out to the cooler and then back in the sandwich adapter to continue on as normal, when used to send oil to a bypass filter and back of course the bypass filter cannot accept full flow. The remaining (bulk) of oil has to shuttle over a spring loaded emergency cooler bypass valve in the sandwich adapter, this creates a differential pressure to operate the bypass filter as the filter is connected to high pressure on both sides but that also takes a toll on oil pressure equal to the pressure needed to open the valve.

Instigator says the sandwich adapter he used does not work like that, no differential pressure is generated it just provides a pressure port, so for a low pressure return he uses the oil cap. He has posted some of the details here in past threads.


Personally I’ll stick with discrete connections that do not affect main flow.
 
I still don't know why you guys want to use Toilet Paper to filter oil. It was made to wipe your a**, not clean you engine. :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:


I just can't resist when this topic comes up. :D :D :D :D
 
To add to Cary's post:
How long do you guys want the 1FZ to last?
If everyone did this mod, then no one would ever replace their motor and Toyota and CDan would not stock motors and motor parts. Then 700,000 mi down the road when the motor does go, you are screwed.
 
No TP in the oil guard I have. It uses a progressively finer wound cotton yard/cord/thread and paper element.

When I first heard about the TP filters I was doubtful, they seam to really work though elements are certainly cheap enough.
 
"I have never seen another gas motor that has 6 combinations of select fit pistons on the production line, not to mention piston oil cooling jets."

Check out the mazda B engine series. http://members.aol.com/solomiata/ The b series are amazing engines. 15 psi turbos on stock air asperated motors and 100K+ before a rebuild.....
 
squeezer said:
Now the rambling part... holy crap are these engines well designed.

A few days ago, Raven posted the NCF manual sections on the 80 t-case w/VC. Reading it is very impressive to a non-ME type of guy. It seems like someone spent a LOT of time figuring things out.

Maybe Raven will post the engine section for our personal delight?? Hint, hint.

-B-
 
There are 9 sections of the NCF about the engine more than any other subject in the NCF, posting individual sections of the EWD and NCF are small immoral acts that help others, posting large portions may be something else?

IMO that is a got to have addition to your FSM, fills in the why's, in the manuals I use at work it would be called the "description & operation" CDan should be able to get them for you LC guys?
 
Raven, are the New Car Features only listed under the LX? I found some info, but not much, listed under that category on TIS for the LC.
 
I assumed they were available for LC's also, that kind of data is glaringly missing from the FSM, though to be honest I have never looked at a LC FSM so maybe my assumptions are wrong?


It is not a long manual like the FSM only 130 pages closer in size to the EWD, is that about what you got for the LC?
 
Nope, not that much stuff. There was a section that was not pdf, it was an Interleaf doc, and required a poorly operating applet to view. Next time I'll check out the LX section.
 
I remember Mercedes had oil jets that sprayed oil on the underside of the piston to keep it cool on their turbo diesel engines. No wonder those engines lasted 3 to 4 hundred thousand miles.

I never realized that the our 80 series gas engines had that feature too. Maybe that is a sign from above that I need to Turbo charge it now. Now if only Safari would start making the turbos again.
 
Rich said:
Nope, not that much stuff. There was a section that was not pdf, it was an Interleaf doc, and required a poorly operating applet to view. Next time I'll check out the LX section.

hmm I wonder if the 96 LX being the "First year of the FZJ-80" as far as Lexus is concerned made the NCF more comprehensive?

I never heard of those interleaf doc's, all the 96 LX stuff is in PDF, I have heard complaints here about the TIS document quality, all the stuff I have for the 96 LX is great better than the printed version, even still looks good viewed at 200%
 
RavenTai said:
There are 9 sections of the NCF about the engine more than any other subject in the NCF, posting individual sections of the EWD and NCF are small immoral acts that help others, posting large portions may be something else?

I've always felt that 9 teeny tiny immoral acts are MUCH less immoral than 1 big immoral act.

:D

-B-
 
Dusty said:
i have been using the trasko bypass filter for 8 months now. i love it. it uses a replacable tp element and is a spin on so you don't need to run lines everywhere. go to traskousa.com

how's that filter holding up? too bad you don't have the neccessary equip to test it like the fella at oilfilterstudy.com :(

...also I heard that these units do not have an anti drainback valve....seeing that our filters are near vertical, I would probably venture to guess an ADV would be a good thing.

Kumar
 
the Trasco is holding up great. i have run 2 oil analysi with it the last being with an oil change over 6000 miles and the results show the trascko is doing a great job. The trasco does not have an antidrain back valve and i wish it did. However i fixed that by using a preluber teed into the oil press switch send out. start up rattle is practicly non existant but, as shared above, the hole used for the oil pressure send out is tiny and you need to give a preluber several seconds to discharge through such a small hole.
 
I have never seen a low pressure switch on any model year 80 series (does not mean it is not used). I think you may be seeing the sending unit that is at the front of the oil cooler. If I am not correct it may be something some one has added. later robbie
 

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