Buying used - Transfer case leak + Timing cover leak (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Feb 27, 2022
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Location
Central NJ
Hi all! I am a new member and feel that I am ready for my first ever LC. Been looking around for a few months and found a few in my budget. Had one of them (2013 with 166k miles) checked out by Toyota dealership.

1. Timing cover reseal
2. Transfer case rear output seal
3. Transfer case fill plug gasket
4. Rear shock


But I am worried about #1 and #2. Does anyone know what kinds of costs I am looking at? I have not made a decision to buy yet and want to to factor in repair costs.

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Quite a few of us have the timing cover leak. It’s actually more common than the cam tower leak on cruisers. most of us are just letting it ride. I got mine with 105k and a timing cover seep. Now at 175 and it doesn’t leak enough to hit the ground between oil changes when I degrease it. And I hate oil leaks. I can do all the work and the plan is to fix it eventually but it just hasn’t gotten bad enough to justify the time.

Transfer case fill gasket is a $0.60 part and you won’t even need to drain the case to change it. The transfer case is a tough one. That leak isn’t common, and doesn’t appear bad, but there isn’t a ton of fluid in there and a long interval between changes. The risk is the leak let the fluid level get low and damaged things. I would be very curious how much fluid is still in there, and especially if they can detect any output flange movement or drivetrain noise when driving. Those leaks are not at all common on our rigs, for what it’s worth.

Shocks are easy, don’t even need the truck on jacks. You will want a 2” fan clutch spanner and a 21 or 22mm flex head ratcheting wrench though. I can find the exact wrench size and part number of the spanner if you want.

Note: I edited my transfer case assessment after getting a better look at the picture.
 
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I can do all the work and the plan is to fix it eventually but it just hasn’t gotten bad enough to justify the time
Maybe you could do a video tutorial when you do it and I can follow it eventually ;)

The transfer case is a tough one. That leak isn’t common, and doesn’t appear bad, but there isn’t a ton of fluid in there and a long interval between changes.
From the carfax report it looks like front and rear diff oil was changed 15k miles (1yr) ago. Carfax has no mention of TC oil change ever.
The Toyota technician just wrote "Perform flush/change based on age/mileage" for every fluid, so I don't know if he even checked the condition of TC oil.

Also, it looks like the bolt is in bad shape from *maybe* someone using a wrong size wrench to open it? So that probably means it was changed or atleast someone tried to... What pics should I ask the dealer to send if if I want to share the condition with you here?

This will be my first 4wd vehicle and not sure if TC is similar to Transmission where the advice is to not do any oil changes, for fear of further damage..
 
Pretty sure I’ll be far too greasy to take pictures during that job, plus this isn’t something most people will or should be attempting even with instructions.

Yes, looking closer the fill plug appears to have had a pipe wrench on it at some point. Which could be a really bad sign.. who the hell was the owner letting work on it? No competent shop wouldn’t have the 24mm socket needed to get that thing loose. I’m curious what the drain plug looks like, though I believe the protective covers need to come off to see it. Even if it is similarly damaged, I’m not sure if it adds anything concrete to the decision making here.

As for a better picture.. the one there isn’t bad, it’s just not high resolution. Also seems like the transfer case leak may be coming from somewhere above the output flange. Really, it’s just hard to tell on things like this without getting to inspect the vehicle more closely.

So being honest it’s hard to give you a concrete answer on this. IMO the timing cover isn’t a big deal. Spend some time degreasing what you can get to and then reassess whether it’s worth fixing. Many of us don’t bother. On the transfer case.. it’s a risk. Might be fine, may have been overfilled somehow and that’s why it is leaking, may have never had the fluid changed in 166k miles, but someone definitely got in there for something.
 
IMO the timing cover isn’t a big deal
Understood. I will follow your advice to keep the area clean and monitor it time to time.
On the transfer case.. it’s a risk. Might be fine, may have been overfilled somehow and that’s why it is leaking, may have never had the fluid changed in 166k miles, but someone definitely got in there for something
I have watched a couple of videos on Toyota TC oil change (one for LC too -> Youtube channel "Australian Images") and they always fill it up until it starts leaking from the fill plug. So are you saying doing that is not good practice and will result in leaks?

Also curious to see if you think TC fluid shouldn't be changed just like Transmission fluid if unchanged for several years or if confirmed metal shavings..
 
who the hell was the owner letting work on it?
Every single dealer I have reached out to has said their particular LC for sale was owned by "in-laws", or "brother", or "Manager's wife"....
It seems to have become a selling tactic which wasn't so widespread few years ago.
 
Every single dealer I have reached out to has said their particular LC for sale was owned by "in-laws", or "brother", or "Manager's wife"....
It seems to have become a selling tactic which wasn't so widespread few years ago.
To be fair not many people want to spend eighty thousand dollars and get Toyota levels of service. But if you can get the nicest Toyota SUV made at a discount and have a further hookup on that service…

I’d do the fluid as part of baselining whether you can confirm it has been changed or not. These don’t have the hydraulic clutches that are the supposed reason to leave contaminated fluid in an old automatic transmission.

Yes the fluid should be filled until it runs out of the fill port. I’m saying if someone was dense enough to put a pipe wrench on the fill plug we can’t assume the rest of the job was done correctly. Like (total hypothetical) maybe they somehow overfilled the case and that is why it’s leaking.

What I’d be worried about is the possibility that it got low without the owner knowing and damaged the case. If I were looking at this truck I’d want a test drive listening closely for noises, and possibly to put it on the rack and first check the level, then dump the oil to see what it looks like. I don’t think the stock drain plug has a magnet.. vaguely remember there being a separate magnet elsewhere in the case. If the fluid is absolutely brand new.. possibly suspicious. If it comes out sparkly, run. Somewhere in the middle? Maybe best case scenario. This is all if the dealer will accommodate. It takes about five minutes to do all of this..
 
I’d do the fluid as part of baselining whether you can confirm it has been changed or not.
The dealer took it to his mechanic today and sent some additional pictures. He said the fluid was full and 4L engages without any slaps. The mechanic did a TC fluid change with OEM oil and didn't find any shavings. The dealer did mention that the owner (his brother) never towed or even put it in 4L (bad, I know) and it is unlikely that the TC fluid was ever changed. LMK if anything sticks out from the pictures below..

I’m saying if someone was dense enough to put a pipe wrench on the fill plug we can’t assume the rest of the job was done correctly.
Fortunately, we were wrong about the pipe wrench hypothesis! In the clearer pictures below, it is clearly not damaged.

I decided to put a deposit down since the price was good and even with a major TC service/replacement (worst case) of $2-$3k, I will still be a bit below market prices. Now arranging for shipping and hoping to get it soon. Will let my trusted local mechanic have a look and share what he says/fixes!

Oh and if you know any fellow member who can help me get a cross country shipping quote, I'd appreciate that!
 
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The dealer took it to his mechanic today and sent some additional pictures. He said the fluid was full and 4L engages without any slaps. The mechanic did a TC fluid change with OEM oil and didn't find any shavings. The dealer did mention that the owner (his brother) never towed or even put it in 4L (bad, I know) and it is unlikely that the TC fluid was ever changed. LMK if anything sticks out from the pictures below..


Fortunately, we were wrong about the pipe wrench hypothesis! In the clearer pictures below, it is clearly not damaged.

I decided to put a deposit down since the price was good and even with a major TC service/replacement (worst case) of $2-$3k, I will still be a bit below market prices. Now arranging for shipping and hoping to get it soon. Will let my trusted local mechanic have a look and share what he says/fixes!

Oh and if you know any fellow member who can help me get a cross country shipping quote, I'd appreciate that!


After TC fluid change and "cleaning" of the area.
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Before TC oil change:
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I hate to say it but if they truly used OEM t-case oil I'd be surprised. Most dealers don't stock the stuff for 2010+ and current retail price is $90/qt, they'll need 2 (technically 1.5 but gotta buy 2 unless you already had a half quart sitting around). If you want to do any double checking on what they used the part number is 08885-81080

This isn't to say much more common and cheaper 75w-90 synthetic will nuke the case, but toyota did change to this unicorn juice with the addition of a (presumably) yellow metal synchro within the transmission around 2010. Speculation: common GL-5 gear oil doesn't play nice with yellow metals. I'm not really sure what the synchro does in an all wheel drive setup.. and plenty of people do run 75w-90 without apparent problems. But that is what toyota says, and they are better than most at making million-mile cars.

Either way I agree the plug looks much better from this angle and your appraisal that it may still be worth putting a t-case in it if needed is hard to beat. Fluid never having been changed makes me wince some.. as I said there isn't much in there and some unspecified amount is currently outside of the case, on top of the sheer mileage. But again, your math. Sounds like the risk is somewhat mitigated and you are on the right path.
 
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I hate to say it but if they truly used OEM t-case oil I'd be surprised.
Actually he sent me a pic from the top. Picture is not clear, IDK if this is truly OEM.

But thanks a ton for all the answers and tips. I am amazed at your wealth of knowledge and happy with your willingness to share it! You seem to be a tech yourself or maybe have been around these things for very long?

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Actually he sent me a pic from the top. Picture is not clear, IDK if this is truly OEM.

But thanks a ton for all the answers and tips. I am amazed at your wealth of knowledge and happy with your willingness to share it! You seem to be a tech yourself or maybe have been around these things for very long?

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That is a good sign. The real stuff does come in a metal can.

I appreciate the kind words and you’re welcome. I’m just a nerd who’s parents seemingly long ago supported taking things apart and putting them back together again. Including my first car.

I also strongly believe in paying it forward.. the information on this forum and others (but this one is special) has formed the basis of everything I’ve done and know about cars. As I take on new projects and learn things that may be valuable to others I try to share when I can.
 
I wouldn't have a LandCruiser if it wasn't for this forum🤫
 
I wouldn't have a LandCruiser if it wasn't for this forum🤫
For sure - this forum has saved me so much money on the two I've owned, it's unreal.
 
Just wanted to let you know @bloc that I decided to go ahead with the purchase. I took a long 2 week vacation from work and drove the truck from CA to back home in NJ! The transfer case is in immaculate condition. It shifts to 4L without any sound and CDL engages without noise. When driving in 4L also, it has just a constant whine which increases with speed (as I would expect). There is no clunking or slapping noises whatsoever and no other noise indicating mechanical breakdown inside the TC.

I made a stop in Moab and got some an easy trail done. The truck made no unusual movement or noise and was steadily planted despite cheap $100, 80% worn out tires!!

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Congrats man! And really glad you made a trip out of the return drive.. literally what these trucks were built for.
 
Just wanted to let you know @bloc that I decided to go ahead with the purchase. I took a long 2 week vacation from work and drove the truck from CA to back home in NJ! The transfer case is in immaculate condition. It shifts to 4L without any sound and CDL engages without noise. When driving in 4L also, it has just a constant whine which increases with speed (as I would expect). There is no clunking or slapping noises whatsoever and no other noise indicating mechanical breakdown inside the TC.

I made a stop in Moab and got some an easy trail done. The truck made no unusual movement or noise and was steadily planted despite cheap $100, 80% worn out tires!!

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Well done 7s! Looking to get into an LX 570 in the coming weeks Myself. Like you I’m from East Coast where all that is old is full of rust. Was looking at Cali and Tx trucks and trying to find the time to buy and drive back. Great pic.
 
Well done 7s! Looking to get into an LX 570 in the coming weeks Myself. Like you I’m from East Coast where all that is old is full of rust. Was looking at Cali and Tx trucks and trying to find the time to buy and drive back. Great pic.

Thanks @TR4RUNNER! Drive will be very nice especially if you can make the CA to Colorado stretch longer. From Denver to NJ, we literally saw corn fields and nothing else :(
I would suggest doing the SF-to-LA pacific coast drive. It was very beautiful and I would definitely want to do it again. A couple of days in Moab will be fun too. I did the easy "Chicken's Corner" trail which took around 4hrs, including drone breaks. The pic you see is at Hurrah Pass which is the midpoint at around 11mile mark.
 
I wonder if there will ever be any rebuild kits for the 200 transfer case.... Anyone know?
 
I wonder if there will ever be any rebuild kits for the 200 transfer case.... Anyone know?
If there’s no demand, I doubt it.
 

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