Buying a 60 series w/heavy rust

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I’m meeting a girl from Tinder tomorrow. She has herpes and she’s ugly. Oh yeah... she smokes, but sounds good on the phone.

Any recommendations?

Depends on what series she has and is she currently in between out breaks? Do it
 
The passenger's front door appears to be made of bondo at the bottom. Also, can you get better frame photos? All your 'rust photos' are too close up to see what's actually rusted through (although they look terrible). I wonder if most of that truck isn't held together with black paint or spray-tar-sound-deadener.

Truly, if you don't know 'cruisers, stay away from that one, or literally pay for it what the engine is worth, and then swap the engine into a better truck. When suspension parts are dangling from the frame, you're heading down a very dark, long road.
 
If you can buy it for what you can part it out for, go for it. In the meantime have some fun with it. Maybe keep it clean and protect it from further rusting as much as possible and run it like it is. You may get a couple years of fun out of it then learn up on the cost of a new body or the value of a part out. It is possible to make it a win-win, just don't go throwing $$ at it until you know what you have.
 
Congrats, Unlike many on here, I would have said buy it but get it cheap. Hard to find any 60 in the Northern US area that is not rusted to death. (Ya Virginia is far enough north)

Just remember that you are only seeing 1/2 of the rust, and depending on the shop, they may only fix that much.

Also get the mechanicals in order and make sure it will pass VA safety inspection. Then have fun with it.
 
Antique plates
No inspection required
I should be able to sell the engine for within 500 bucks of what I paid for everything worse case.

The body man already offered me $500 more than I paid.
 
Anyone know what the metal knob to left side of the pictures does?

Thanks

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Antique plates
No inspection required
I should be able to sell the engine for within 500 bucks of what I paid for everything worse case.

The body man already offered me $500 more than I paid.

Ya but if you are daily driving it at any point...... for now absolutely Antique plates.
 
Any electric to it on the back? Looks like an old school dimmer switch or starter switch, from when both were on the floor and foot operated.
 
I need to trace it out. The owner did not know either.

Maybe I like diesels too much but finding a road worthy 4x4 diesel in my area for under 5k is in rare.
 
I looked a POS gas one a month ago for $5000. I think I did good on this one, it is not going to win any car shows but it doesn’t look bad for being 31
 
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@Deshet congrats on the buy. You'll have lots of fun figuring out this beast.

If you are just starting to dig into the rust start at the top and work your way down. That means, finding out what is underneath the old roof rack. Usually rust and old sheetmetal screws.

Have you checked out the C-Channels yet for rust?
 
Am I the only one that thinks 'buy a welder and get to learning...'?? That's how I learned, I'm no expert, but if the rest of the truck is what you want, metal is metal, if you can cut the crap out and weld some new in, what's the harm?
 
I need to trace it out. The owner did not know either.

Maybe I like diesels too much but finding a road worthy 4x4 diesel in my area for under 5k is in rare.

For you non VA people.....Rare = Impossible unless your want a beat to death 80's Ford or Chevy
 
@Deshet congrats on the buy. You'll have lots of fun figuring out this beast.

If you are just starting to dig into the rust start at the top and work your way down. That means, finding out what is underneath the old roof rack. Usually rust and old sheetmetal screws.

Yep that RR has to go. Serves no purpose other than leaking into the cab.

Suggestion when they do the rust, either you or the company clean out the gutters and reseal them.
 

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