busted ignition

Joined
Jul 24, 2014
Messages
5
Mine broke on 10/21/18 at the grocery store. Had it towed to the house. 3 miles away.
Ordered part from Nalley Lexus ($197.00). Had it towed to my retired Lexus mechanic on 10/27/18.
2 hours after he received it I was back on the the road. Total repair was $377.00 parts and labor.
Towing was free.

2002 Lx470
200k
 
Joined
Nov 20, 2018
Messages
1
Location
Bratislava, Slovakia
Hi, guys, just one question, I am lost and a bit desperate.
This happened to me as well.

We replaced the rod with a friend of mine. We are able to start a car, but, when steering wheel lock system works opposite. If I turn the key to the lock position, the steering wheel is released, if I turn it to any other position, it is locked.

Can you please help, what I am doing wrong?

Thank you very much for this.

Best regards
Matej
 
Joined
Jul 13, 2018
Messages
12
Location
virginia
Yay...I just became a member of this exclusive club. My LX got stranded in an office garage and the tow company cant get it out due to height restrictions...so glad that I have found this helpful thread. I got through the easy part of gaining access to the ignition cylinder. Will try to fish the broken part out when the new part arrives.

I called Lindsay Lexus in Northern Virginia to get a quote to have them fixed the problem (before I found out that the truck couldn't be towed out of the garage), and they quoted me $1900 for the job. I called them back later asking to buy the replacement part (whole assembly and not just the broken rod) to do the work myself, and they wouldn't sell it to me. When asked if they could at least confirm the Toyota part number for my Lexus, and they refused that as well.

Great customer service all around...I currently own 2 other Lexus but will definitely stay away from Lindsay Lexus for any future purchases or services for certain.
 
Joined
Jul 13, 2018
Messages
12
Location
virginia
help needed...

so I was able to get the broken piece released from the white plastic starter housing. unfortunately, when the broken piece was released, it fell/turned sideway in the cylinder. spent the last hour trying to fish it out without any luck. does anyone know of how to get the broken piece out when it is on it side?

also, i can't seem to figure out how to get the new rod out of the replacement assembly. can't get the little nub to line up with the little notch on the bottom of the assembly where the little blade sticks out.

thanks in advance for any help offered
 

Weezer

SILVER Star
Joined
Oct 30, 2018
Messages
42
Location
West Texas
It's really hard to push the steering wheel lock mechanism to the right and fish the broken piece from the bottom of the bracket. I used a long small screwdriver to push the steering lock mechanism out of the way and a coat hangar with a small 90 degree bend on the end to fish the piece out. Then, to get the rod out of the new bracket, just turn it until the nub on the new rod lines up with the slot on the bottom of the bracket. You'll have to turn the new rod both ways a bit to get it past the steering wheel lock mechanism. Keep messing with it....it'll come out.

I spent a good hour fishing the out the broken part of the rod, then when I thought it would never come out it did!
 
Joined
Jul 25, 2018
Messages
692
Location
Durham, NC
In case this is helpful info, my 2001 LX had p/n 45280-60510 replaced for a total of $511. Happened literally the month before I bought it from the PO, haha. I wonder if that's what made him give up :idea:
 
Joined
Jul 13, 2018
Messages
12
Location
virginia
Finally got the truck running again. Almost gave up on it after a few hours of fishing out the broken pieces unsuccessfully with the bag full of long needle nose pliers, tongs, picks...in the end, a simple cloth hanger with a slightly acute hook in the end did the job.

Big thanks to the forum members who had provided me with the valuable guidance and insights.
 
Joined
Aug 20, 2014
Messages
6
I just did this...thanks MaineLX470 for the great video. I removed the white plastic piece at the back to be able to rotate and get the broken piece out. Everything works now but a bit of a pain in the ass...start to finish...3 hours with 30 minute dinner in between.

Btw, I think there was an extra wiring terminal near the rear window switches on the driver side when the panel was removed. Does anyone know what that's for? Thanks.
 

jLB

Recovered from back surgery, and still grumpy!
SILVER Star
Joined
Dec 2, 2014
Messages
1,648
My kid's 2000 TLC did the "spinning key" trick with the vehicle stuck in ACC mode tonight at about 5PM.

It was nice enough to do it in the driveway (at home), but it was parked behind all of the other vehicles, so we got to push it out of the driveway and onto the street. Of course this happens just before the vehicle is supposed to head out on a road trip. I guess it could've been much worse, if it had happened out on the road.

I reached out to @ranma21 to see if he happened to have one in stock, fortunately he did, so I got to meet a "faceless 'Mud Internet friend" in person, and get the replacement part. (Thank you, and it was very nice to meet you in person!)

It's too dark, and too cold, to try and swap it tonight, but I know what I will be doing tomorrow. I hope fishing the broken pieces out won't be too much of a hassle, but the process seems to be pretty well documented in this thread.

I sure wish someone sold something like @scottm 's solution to the problem:
Ignition switch broken...help?!
 
Last edited:

ranma21

Supporting Vendor
 
Joined
Apr 18, 2005
Messages
2,978
Location
Houston, TX
My kid's 2000 TLC did the "spinning key" trick with the vehicle stuck in ACC mode tonight at about 5PM.

It was nice enough to do it in the driveway (at home), but it was parked behind all of the other vehicles, so we got to push it out of the driveway and onto the street. Of course this happens just before the vehicle is supposed to head out on a road trip. I guess it could've been much worse if it had happened out on the road.

I reached out to @ranma21 to see if he happened to have one in stock, fortunately he did and I got to meet a "faceless 'Mud Internet friend" in person and get the replacement part. (Thank you, and it was very nice to meet you in person!)

It's too dark, and too cold to try and swap it tonight, but I know what I will be doing tomorrow. I hope fishing to broken pieces out won't be too much of a hassle, but the process seems to be pretty well documented in this thread.

I sure wish someone sold something like @scottm 's solution to the problem:
Ignition switch broken...help?!
It was nice meeting you too James =) Glad I am able to help. Appreciate your business too :)
 
Joined
Jun 14, 2010
Messages
670
Location
Flooded timber of Arkansas
Question: i am about to embark to replace the shaft only as my 2000 with 217,000 miles often times is tough to twist the key. I fiddle with the steering wheel but it usually takes reinserting the key 5 or 8 times before it releases and allows me to start.

And i prefer to do work like this in my own garage on my time and since i have two 100’s - i can roll the other until its fixed.
If (during the course of this procedure) i want to disable the steering wheel security lock to prevent any of this in the future, can someone post a pic and indicate what piece of the housing, or shaft, i could cut off?

Also, until i get a chance to perform this procedure as a preventative item, is there something i could apply lube to that would free it up any?

Thanks fellers!
 
Joined
Feb 9, 2013
Messages
2,862
Location
Colorado
Question: i am about to embark to replace the shaft only as my 2000 with 217,000 miles often times is tough to twist the key. I fiddle with the steering wheel but it usually takes reinserting the key 5 or 8 times before it releases and allows me to start.

And i prefer to do work like this in my own garage on my time and since i have two 100’s - i can roll the other until its fixed.
If (during the course of this procedure) i want to disable the steering wheel security lock to prevent any of this in the future, can someone post a pic and indicate what piece of the housing, or shaft, i could cut off?

Also, until i get a chance to perform this procedure as a preventative item, is there something i could apply lube to that would free it up any?

Thanks fellers!
You will want to use a dry lubricant on door locks and ignition, like graphite.
 

Ayune

SILVER Star
Joined
Feb 12, 2017
Messages
1,009
Location
Portland, OR
@DuckLN The ignition shaft has a lobe to retract the steering wheel lock pin. So instead of cutting something off you’ll need to add something to hold the lock pin away from the steering column.

If the large lobe at the bottom was a full circle it would always keep the lock pin retracted. If you’re handy you could make a Delrin piece and add it to the lobe to complete the circle.

The lock pin inside the ignition mechanism is very hard to get to. The casting is magnesium with security bolts, etc. Ideally there would be a hole that would let you insert a pin when the lock was retracted to keep it that way. But that’s unlikely.
 
Last edited:

PDPerry

 
Joined
Apr 11, 2006
Messages
105
Location
Sacramento, CA
You will want to use a dry lubricant on door locks and ignition, like graphite.
Sorry to disagree... strongly.
I was a graphite/lock believer until fairly recently. Over the years, I would use an appropriate amount on Bubbles' ignition key to lube the lock mechanism.
Maybe once a year at most. Yet after 15 years the key would occasionally not turn the ignition.
Depending upon who was in the driver's seat and where they happened to be, it could be quite alarming. Like the wrong key was in the ignition. Then, after trying to turn the key twice, thrice... or maybe 20 times, the key would suddenly realize its mistake and turn the ignition, whereupon Bubbles would spring to life.
When the shaft went south, I used the opportunity to take lock mechanism to a familiar locksmith for a professional clean & lube.
First thing after cracking it open, the locksmith said to NEVER USE GRAPHITE in an automobile ignition. That over time, it cakes-up and gums-up the works. He blamed the intermittent "bad key" issue solely on the graphic gumming up the works.
Said it's fine for regular locks, doors, etc. Didn't ask him about automobile door locks. But he was adamant that graphite and ignitions mechanisms are bad juju...
 
Joined
Feb 10, 2019
Messages
42
Location
Colorado
Mine went at about 97k miles. Had it in for service and one of the guys did it. Assumed it was operator error.
 

scottm

 
 
Joined
Mar 27, 2003
Messages
3,212
Location
Below the bridge
@DuckLN The ignition shaft has a lobe to retract the steering wheel lock pin. So instead of cutting something off you’ll need to add something to hold the lock pin away from the steering column.

If the large lobe at the bottom was a full circle it would always keep the lock pin retracted. If you’re handy you could make a Delrin piece and add it to the lobe to complete the circle.
.
That is one benefit of just going with a solid piece of round-stock. I'm sure it was easier to make my pin than modify the flimsy one.
 
Joined
Jun 14, 2010
Messages
670
Location
Flooded timber of Arkansas
I saw pics of your creation- impressive i must say. Mine is a 2000 with a manual tilt steering wheel - would your invention work on mine? If so i’m happy to provide reasonable consideration for one.

That is one benefit of just going with a solid piece of round-stock. I'm sure it was easier to make my pin than modify the flimsy one.
 
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