Bushings, boots, and soft parts, "while I'm in there"

[Ohthetrees]

Hi, I'm going to reboot my CV axle boots because one is leaking. I've been trying to assemble a list of things to do "while I'm in there" and have decided I'd like also like to replace all bushings and rubber parts that I can. My cruiser is 23 years old, and I've had it for 10 years, used it hard, lots of overlanding, it is doing great, but I plan to have it for at least another 20 years, and I feel some of the rubber parts under the truck are tired. I also have wicked squeaking going over even slight bumps, but I can't seem to locate the sound.

So far, on the list of things to consider:

Wheel bearing repack
Diff axle seals
Drive Flanges
Knuckle seals (are there bearings in there too?)
Sway bar bushings and end links (front and rear)
Tie Rod end links
Engine Mounts
Body/Frame Mounts?
Diff Bushings
Upper and Lower Front Control Arm Bushings
Steering Rack bushings
Rear control arm bushings


I'm not definitely doing all these, they are just what I'm considering. I feel like a lot of these jobs "go together" and many will be easier done together. I want to concentrate on high ROI items. In other words if one of these jobs is a huge pain and usually is not needed, even in a 20+ year old cruiser, then I don't want to do it. My question for the community is what jobs would you recommend for a 23 year refresh while I'm rebooting? Any jobs on my list you would not do? Any high ROI jobs I should put on my list?

 

[Brandon Ryder]

I just did some of this. I would have at least upper ball joint and lower ball joint reboot kits ready for both sides. New lock washers for the hubs. Ditto new claw washers. Possibly 4 hub nuts as well because often they are gouged from bad mechanics using a screwdriver to drive them off when they don't have the 54mm axle nut socket.
Inspect your steering rack boots to see if they have holes. If you're replacing TRE may as well do this IF they need it.
You definitely need the hub seal if you're replacing bearings.
The diff seal is different on PS and DS by the way.
You could get knuckle dust shield and gasket. There is also a seal that faces the cv shaft on the knuckle as well.

Highly reccommend replacing upper and lower ball joints, in which case you don't need the reboot kits. Pretty much 555 is your option there.
You can replace bearings and races. Mine were probably still good but I replaced anyway.

Mcgeorge Toyota makes it easy with the schematics to find all the part numbers. I have them written down.

Another good idea is to replace steering rack bushings. That's a project in itself but makes a big difference in steering feel.
Also make sure to get an assortment of axle c clips because you may need a thicker size.
Get some S hooks to hang your calipers while working. Saves the brake lines. I use one to help me seat the cv axle as well. Holds it straight as I attempt to seat or unseat it and prevents it from bending the outer dust shield of the cv on the LCA.

Good luck! A lot of us have done this or at least most of this.
I've got some pictures in my "project low ryder" build thread and a lot of the part numbers mentioned.

You may also need new drive flanges if you have worn cv shafts. Helps if you have a clunk. I find the driver side is worse than the passenger side. You may also need a new outer cv shaft if the splines are badly worn. Again, see my build thread. Most of this is on page 2.
What else? Let's see you need a brass drift or brass hammer to remove cone washers on the drive flange. And a pitman arm puller can pull all the ball joints and TRE without damaging. Much more reliable than the BFH method.

ETA: do you need new rotors? That's something to add while doing bearings. You need a luggage scale to know if you've properly set the bearing preload. Of course you need a ft lb torque wrench.

Biggest ROI is probably the new bushings in UCAs and LCAs, new ball joints and possibly outer TRE if needed. And just properly repacking the bearings and setting the preload will result in the best improvement to the ride and driving characteristics.

 

[LJE]

I'm a big proponent of replacing the bushings in LCAs/UCAs over replacing the entire arm, but that's probably only worthwhile if you're doing the labor yourself. It's not super fun, but I think I wrote rout the best process I've found in my build thread.

Impex over in Japan has the bushings for $15/ea (as compared to $60 here in the states!), so you can replace bushings + ball joints on each arm for like $70/arm, way cheaper than entire new assemblies.

 

[Ohthetrees]

I just did some of this. I would have at least upper ball joint and lower ball joint reboot kits ready for both sides. New lock washers for the hubs. Ditto new claw washers. Possibly 4 hub nuts as well because often they are gouged from bad mechanics using a screwdriver to drive them off when they don't have the 54mm axle nut socket.
Inspect your steering rack boots to see if they have holes. If you're replacing TRE may as well do this IF they need it.
You definitely need the hub seal if you're replacing bearings.
The diff seal is different on PS and DS by the way.
You could get knuckle dust shield and gasket. There is also a seal that faces the cv shaft on the knuckle as well.

Highly reccommend replacing upper and lower ball joints, in which case you don't need the reboot kits. Pretty much 555 is your option there.
You can replace bearings and races. Mine were probably still good but I replaced anyway.

Mcgeorge Toyota makes it easy with the schematics to find all the part numbers. I have them written down.

Another good idea is to replace steering rack bushings. That's a project in itself but makes a big difference in steering feel.
Also make sure to get an assortment of axle c clips because you may need a thicker size.
Get some S hooks to hang your calipers while working. Saves the brake lines. I use one to help me seat the cv axle as well. Holds it straight as I attempt to seat or unseat it and prevents it from bending the outer dust shield of the cv on the LCA.

Good luck! A lot of us have done this or at least most of this.
I've got some pictures in my "project low ryder" build thread and a lot of the part numbers mentioned.

You may also need new drive flanges if you have worn cv shafts. Helps if you have a clunk. I find the driver side is worse than the passenger side. You may also need a new outer cv shaft if the splines are badly worn. Again, see my build thread. Most of this is on page 2.
What else? Let's see you need a brass drift or brass hammer to remove cone washers on the drive flange. And a pitman arm puller can pull all the ball joints and TRE without damaging. Much more reliable than the BFH method.

ETA: do you need new rotors? That's something to add while doing bearings. You need a luggage scale to know if you've properly set the bearing preload. Of course you need a ft lb torque wrench.

Biggest ROI is probably the new bushings in UCAs and LCAs, new ball joints and possibly outer TRE if needed. And just properly repacking the bearings and setting the preload will result in the best improvement to the ride and driving characteristics.

Great stuff, thanks so much for taking the time!

 

[LJE]

Great stuff, thanks so much for taking the time!

FWIW, I have a pair of lower ball joint reboot kits. Ordered them from Impex before I realized that my lower ball joints were trash. They're yours for the cost of shipping if you're interested!

 

[Ohthetrees]

FWIW, I have a pair of lower ball joint reboot kits. Ordered them from Impex before I realized that my lower ball joints were trash. They're yours for the cost of shipping if you're interested!

That is super nice of you, but I think I'm going to replace the ball joints while I'm in there. Thanks for the offer!

 

[Brandon Ryder]

FWIW, I have a pair of lower ball joint reboot kits. Ordered them from Impex before I realized that my lower ball joints were trash. They're yours for the cost of shipping if you're interested!

I mean, I'll take them if you're offering. I plan to keep these on hand JIC.

 

[LJE]

I mean, I'll take them if you're offering. I plan to keep these on hand JIC.

Sure - beats them sitting in my garage for the next decade, haha! Shoot me a PM with you address and I'll let ya know how much shipping is.