Burnt Valve ...what to do now?

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Sorry, missed this earlier. It gave P0310. Should mention this as it may be important. First time it threw a code was the day after I ran fuel injector cleaner through the gas tank. Second time was the day after Seafoam through vacuum line. Went away after a day or two in each case.

You sure about that code number?

I'm still hoping for just a failing coil pack. FAR more common than mechanical problems. How were they tested? Before I tore down an engine or went for replacement I'd suggest swapping out coil packs to see if the code moves from P0301 (which I assume you meant?) to P03XX.
 
I hate hearing stories like this, I wish you luck getting it all sorted out. Be sure to double check that timing too.
 
Ha, yeah, got my 1 and 0 mixed there. Did mean 301.

So yeah, I did switch the coil pack and the code did not immediately go away. But driving around either later that day, or the next day, can't remember, it did disappear and has not reappeared. It threw this immediately after Seafoam. I know feelings on this forum about Seafoam are mixed, but grasping for strings, I went for it.

And as mentioned earlier, the first time it threw a code, a few weeks ago, was after injector cleaner in the fuel. Went away after a day. My thought was they were just really gunked and figured it couldn't hurt.

Come to find out, after looking through the MOUNTAIN of maintenance this thing has had (the previous owner spent thousands and thousands on this and thats over the years) they replaced all the injectors at 180k.
 
get a 2. opinion! And why dont you get an inexpensive compression test done like most suggest, instead off all this guessing?
 
Yeah, I am going to get one done. Didn't know that was the route I should go until a couple hours ago when I posted and got these opinions. The "guessing" is just me telling people what I've done over the last few weeks. Thanks.
 
I hate hearing stories like this, I wish you luck getting it all sorted out. Be sure to double check that timing too.

Thanks man. I will get that checked.

One symptom I forgot to mention if this gives any more indication: It's a bit tough to start sometimes. Not that I have to sit there trying to get it started, but just kind of hiccups for a second and then the RPPs come up to normal? Also, never the first start of the day. Always happens after I've driven it around for a while, then it sits for a while. Only happens every few days.
 
Just a few notes so you don't freak out too much... any 1998-2004 4.7 engine will work i've purchased all mine off ebay from salvage yards complete with carfax & vin info last one was 130k for $640 delivered they are plentiful and cheap I can swap one working alone in a day and I'm old and slow... it is as simple of a swap as they come check my posts
good luck
 
Just a few notes so you don't freak out too much... any 1998-2004 4.7 engine will work i've purchased all mine off ebay from salvage yards complete with carfax & vin info last one was 130k for $640 delivered they are plentiful and cheap I can swap one working alone in a day and I'm old and slow... it is as simple of a swap as they come check my posts
good luck

That is very valuable info. Thank you. Car-parts.com looks to have some good deals too (thanks @brianride) If I could find somebody here in Central Washington to assist, I'd buy buy the beer, the ribeyes and even pay our ridiculous 20 percent tax on the liquor of your choice:beer:

Hint. Hint. Nudge. Nudge.
 
I commend you on your moral compass. Nothing wrong with selling to private party, disclosure is what I'd do. Buyer's don't only look for pristine low mileage 100's, some like me look for projects. But maybe it's a keeper, you decide.

@ponytl 's got a good handle on engine swap. Which is certainly one you should consider. It really comes down to how clean is this 100. A valve job or engine swap and some ball joints are not that big a deal. Ball joint and bushing ect. are to be expected with age. If you read through his post you'll see he also recommends timing belt job during swap. Aisin complete belt kit was just pointed out to me ~$170 at: More Information for AISIN TKT001. Seal kits are ~$50 if needed, plus $40 for 2 jug of Toyota Red LL coolant. You'll just need the FSM, some hand tools, engine hoist (rental) AND time. You'll learn a ton.

But, first thing I'd do is verify your shop findings. In this case it's supper easy. Go back and ask them to show you the burnt valve, so you have better understanding. They may do this without charge, as they know which cylinders to look in. 15 minutes tops, to pull engine cover, spark plug and run the camera in, then button up while sipping a coffee. They may offer a stored picture they can email you, great post it here. But I'd want to see in person as well. Sorry but what I've seen of "top shops" just this last year is criminal. No what to look for Burnt valve - Google Search just because it black with carbon, is not a burnt valve. Burnt means metal of valve has melted.

For a second opinion, I recommend sticking with Toyota Dealer. Better yet, find a specialist that only works on Land Cruiser / LX. Shop like Slee Off Road we've here in CO, can be recommend by your local mud members. Either case go into shop and get to know your mechanic.

You can also do a compression check. You just need a compression gauge (~$30) and socket set (~$20). Will help you through it, it's fun, easy and you'll have the tools and knowledge forever.

I've just been doing a cost annalist on a 98LX I purchased a few days ago. I bought for parts, but wanted to see if restoration made senses. It's has many issues, one being a leaky head gasket. My cost on stopping leaky head gasket runs anywhere from $60 all the way up to doing complete A1 factory spec valve job on both heads about $1,000 ($750 of that machine shop). In my case I found most issues on inspection. Admittedly not the head gasket leak (in a hurry) but didn't care much. After running the numbers, I decided partout or sell as parts rig is best in my case. It's really not that much money for me to restore, but value will not be their when I'm done. But I'm good with that, it's just how the number fall.

In your case if you find it does need this work, you can see from all the post you have options. Key will be what the finished products worth to you. Paying some shop a billion gazillion bucks is not one of the options in my book.
 
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I will get that checked.

Food for thought, this is something you can likely do on your own, the timing marks are under the cam gear covers and on the crank. By the end of the night @ponytl will have you feeling confident enough to swap the motor, think of this as an introductory step. :D
 
Trust me, I am willing to do anything and everything myself. I believe if I don't know it, it's just because I haven't learned it yet. But, I also know when I am in over my head. I'm more of a "big picture" guy vs a "detail" guy. So I know my limitations when it comes to a 100 bolts and tubes and connections, haha. Inevitably, I'll forget something.

With that said, I'm resourceful. Have somebody coming over as we speak to test the cylinder. He is very familiar with these engines. So should know something shortly.
 
a. I'd want to know what the rest of the cylinders on that bank tested... I'd like to see a min of around 180
b. I'd want to squirt a little oil in #1 and retest... if rings then it'd jump up
c. just curious since you just got it... does it have a new radiator or heater T's any reason to think it could have run hot before you got it?
d. I'd want to do a leak down test

reason for the leak down if it hold pressure then there is the off chance that the valves just need to be adjusted (shims added) rarely addressed on these engines but if they were so far off that it was limiting lift and duration it would affect compression but the seal would still be good
 
With the cylinder being tested ( piston at TDC ) the percentage of leakage shouldn't be any higher than 8-12%. What leakage there is can be heard as hissing through the oil filler cap ( rings ) tailpipe ( exhaust valve ) throttle housing intake valve). With a cylinder to cylinder variation of 4-5% being acceptable. Assuming that the head gasket is ok or you would be pushing coolant out with the radiator cap loose / off. Ponytail, your talking about excessive cam to follower clearance. Right? Zero clearance or worse would cause low compression and valve damage.
 
I would just strip the head off to inspect, it shouldn't take long. If you have a leakage tester to hand then I would use it to help pinpoint the problem, but it won't fix the issue. I think its time to get the spanners out and just spend some time working on it. Don't buy any gaskets to refit as you might decide a replacement engine is in order, as to not waste money. During strip down inspect everything that could help diagnose the issue, check the sparkplugs, valve timing, camshafts, valve springs etc. My money is on a previously done, but bad timing belt job that bent a valve slightly, or the timing belt had snapped causing damage.

Do the job in stages, put individual component nuts a bolts in bags and label them, also take pictures before and after each bag is filled. This should help you remember where all the bolts go back. If the engine has signs of overheating then just swap the engine out, if its just a slightly bent valve then I would repair it.
 
a. I'd want to know what the rest of the cylinders on that bank tested... I'd like to see a min of around 180
b. I'd want to squirt a little oil in #1 and retest... if rings then it'd jump up
c. just curious since you just got it... does it have a new radiator or heater T's any reason to think it could have run hot before you got it?
d. I'd want to do a leak down test

reason for the leak down if it hold pressure then there is the off chance that the valves just need to be adjusted (shims added) rarely addressed on these engines but if they were so far off that it was limiting lift and duration it would affect compression but the seal would still be good

Has not over heated since I've owned it. Not a single drop of coolant in 2 months either.....until last night. Looks like the radiator is now leaking heavily. I had consistently checked for coolant leaks nearly on a daily basis. Feel like this is the cause of the shop I took it too. Too much of a coincidence that the day after I get it back, there's a new issue.
 
I have no idea of the trucks overall condition and how much you love/hate it at this point... IF it is rust free and the interior is ok for $1500 You should be able to have a truck that will last you another 100k without any other major costs... here is one that is not far from you they want $800 but $600 is more in line hell they might swap it for you ENGINE 4.7L VIN T 5TH DIGIT 2UZFE ENGINE 8 CYL FITS 00-04 TUNDRA 4437107 | eBay I've had good luck with $100 radiator kits and $100 timing belt kits
 
A leak down test is a sure fire way to figure out where your lost compression is going - HOWEVER, depending on how burnt your valve is (if it even is), I'd expect a compression number much lower than 110 PSI.

When you were testing the compression, were you keeping the throttle body open? Intake vacuum will greatly reduce your compression test results.
 
In a garage I would use the following kit to help diagnose this.

A Smoke Tester, if the HC is high this could point at burnt valves
A Vacuum gauge, if the needles isn't steady it could point at valves
A compression test will just tell you that you are low on compression but it doesn't Pinpoint anything other than low compression.
A cylinder leakage test(leak down test) will pinpoint why you have low compression in most cases.
A scope can be used but I've never used one.

As the vehicle's history isn't known then it is harder to diagnose. Has it ever overheated causing valve or piston wear. A vacuum leak will also raise cylinder temps. Bad workmanship can bend valves(more common than people think, even the mechanics get this wrong at times). Has the engine hydro locked bending a connecting rod, a cylinder leakage test won't find this. Low oil or coolant, the list goes on.

If you have access to garage test equipment or are will to buy it then I would use it. If not then pay someone to check it over and ask for all the results, or better still get them to show you. I would of had the head of by now though, but that is my impatience, if nothing stands out on visual inspection during strip down I would just do a engine swap. Even if I find something I might do a engine swap without knowing the history as it is hard to build a picture of why it went wrong.
 
A leak down test is a sure fire way to figure out where your lost compression is going - HOWEVER, depending on how burnt your valve is (if it even is), I'd expect a compression number much lower than 110 PSI.

When you were testing the compression, were you keeping the throttle body open? Intake vacuum will greatly reduce your compression test results.
that is what I was thinking about the 110psi I have no experience setting up these valves BUT if they were not opening for as long or as much as they should it would show as low compression leak down would isolate this to maybe a minor issue
 

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