Build Bundera LJ70 Build 2L-T to 5L-T

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Y

Yellow70

10 Year
Joined
Aug 31, 2012
Threads
9
Messages
26
Bundera LJ70 Build
The bundera when I first got it.


Added spotties ,oil catch can, moving the bullbar a lot closer to the car, flares, 3inch lift , boost gauge and painting the sunnies mat black this is now what it looks like

After nothing but trouble with my 2L-T i recently purchased a 5L out of a Hilux used in a Quarry with 110,000km with a daily service book. It was abit rusty on the outside but very clean on the inside.


Motors out time for the new one

Also added a 2L-T turbo manifold off a Hilux Surf pulling out some studs and putting some new ones in to suit the new manifold. Using the CT20a aswell see how it go’s might have to good abit bigger. Put the 2L-T water housing on the 5L to so I didn’t have to change the radiator. Had to use the 5L starter motor and clutch.

Might aswell added a front mount intercooler while everything’s out.




Still have to put the Pwr steering pump on and wire up the EGT gauge, manual glow plug button and new after market temp gauge should get it started it the next week or 2 thanks hope you enjoyed

Luke
 
I almost brought this rig, but the money put me off. i think it was 12000 or something!!

pitty about the motor too, did you know it was on the way out when you brought it?

has scrubbed up well
 
Strick said:
I almost brought this rig, but the money put me off. i think it was 12000 or something!!

pitty about the motor too, did you know it was on the way out when you brought it?

has scrubbed up well
Click to expand...

Ended up getting him down to just over $6000 and engine was not to bad but broke a timing belt 10,000km after buying it
 
blizard said:
nice work. keep a good eye on the temp as the turbo is a bit small for the 5 L. I recomend you put 3 inch exhaust on to let gasses get away from head
Click to expand...

Got 2 3/4 from the dump back and getting the dump redone cause it drop down to around 2inches so that will probably be 3 or 2 3/4 not sure yet see what the exhaust bloke thinks
 
Yellow70 said:
Got 2 3/4 from the dump back and getting the dump redone cause it drop down to around 2inches so that will probably be 3 or 2 3/4 not sure yet see what the exhaust bloke thinks
Click to expand...

Nice! Please take a picture of the dump when you get it re-done. I bought a flange to re-do mine, but I found the angles tight and awkward between the turbo and the firewall. I'd be interested to see how you do yours. Thanks!
 
Nice work I'm wondering how much the small turbo works - runs out of puff and higher EGT's? When does it run out of puff and do you get close to the 4,000redline? or do you need to anymore hahaha. Actually when do you have boost 1500rpm upwards or earlier due to the small turbo?

The 1KZ turbo might be a better solution later?

Did you put a boost detector in it for the fuel pump I do not recall reading that you did.
 
Last edited:
The 5L is a 3.0 L (2,986 cc) 4-cylinder diesel engine. Bore is 99.5 mm and stroke is 96 mm, with a compression ratio of 22.2:1. Output is 97 hp (72 kW) at 4,000 rpm with 192 N·m (142 lbf·ft) of torque at 2,400 rpm

according to Wiki
 
hoping for around 60kw at wheels and 200nm its going on the dyno and getting the fuel adjusted at MTQ in 2 weeks
 
She Started.

Almost done now need a alternator plug to convert old to new,new dump pipe and a tune from MTQ. ran it for 20mins got and stayed at 79C' and EGT was 240F' also decided to put a second battery in not finished yet and had to get rid of the old air box replace it with a K&N enclosed pod filter which i need to connect to the snorkel.









Luke
 
Bit of a update had i couple of problems that slow me down to get this thing on the road

1. blowing the first alternator up. i got a auto electrician to re wire a brand new ebay that is running perfect now.
2. bought a new ebay 5L starter motor cause the other one was sticking open.
3. Car was blowing oil smoke replaced the turbo with a ebay ct20 smoke stopped.
4. Bad earth and chopped and replaced old wiring
5. Took it 4x4ing have to replace the 5L sump with a 2LTE sump and pickup

Current Problem

1. driving around town at 50kmh-80kmh car sits on 82-90 C as soon i get over 90kmh it run at 100 C- 115 C than cool straight back down to around 90C once i slow down to 60kmh-80kmh than it jumps back up past 100C when i start going over 90kmh again.
i have replace thermostat,radiator,flush the system put new coolant in i now have a gauge on my bottom hose that doesn't go past 40C-50C

Over than that it seems fine now if anyone could help me out it would be great thanks

Heres some photos









Luke
 
Hi guys,

Sorry to hijack the thread, I'm not sure if this is the appropriate place to post, but I was hoping to pick your brains...

I've got a 1985 petrol Bundera (22R engine), which I've just converted to the 5L. I ripped it from a working donor car (4Runner) and everything seems ok except the clutch wont disengage.... the fork doesn't seem to be pushed enough.
I've bled the crap out of it and tried a longer rod on the slave cylinder rod but no luck. The clutch was working perfectly fine in the donor car.

My actual question was did you have any clutch issues when converting your car? You said in your thread you just used the 5L clutch? I assume that includes the slave from the 5L? or was it the slave from the 2L-T?

If it's not too much trouble is there any chance of you measuring how far your clutch fork moves when you press the pedal?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm stumped.

Mick
 
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