With my first big mod behind me (OME medium lift), I decided to do the most important mod IMO and that is adding the armor. I decided to go with Bump It Offroad because I like the look of his products, and most of all his reasonable prices. Also, I've seen good feedback from others here. I went ahead and ordered the tube sliders and his cross member skid plate combo. Both were shipped out on Tuesday from Colorado and arrived Thursday here in San Diego, surprisingly fast. I ordered both without the powdercoating for both the fear of some inevitable damage during shipping and the fact I have a buddy who has a powdercoat business. I went ahead and primed and painted the skid plate myself and installed it this weekend. After the paint had dried, I was ready for the install. I had previously soaked all the bolts with penetrating oil so all the bolts came out easily when removing the stock crossmember. I then tried to mount the new crossmember. I held it up to the two studs that hang down out of the xfer case and to my surprise the four holes on either end didn't quite line up. Man, I was really bummed. I pulled it down and laid it on top of the stock one and noticed the outer four holes lined up perfectly but the two in the middle were off by about 1/2". I figured I was going to have to drill new holes and let Mike know his template must be off. I decided to put the stock member back on but when I tried that the holes didn't line up for it either. I noticed that my floor jack supporting the xfer case had settle a bit. At that moment I realized that my new one would fit just fine if I just raised the xfer case. Mike had told me I would gain about an 1" more clearance by using his cross member skid plate combo. So I jacked up the xfer case a bit higher than it was and the new one lined up perfectly....live and learn huh! I still have to weld on the side brace but here are a few pics ....
Bump It Offroad Skid Plate Install
- Thread starter VCCruzr
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- Thread starter
- #3
Notice how the holes don't match with with the stock one but once you raise the xfer case a little, everything lines right up. I also had time today to test the fit on the sliders before powdercoat tomorrow.
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i might be a moron, but how can you just raise the transfer case?
Xfer case is held up by the cross member; pull the cross member and the xfer case comes down.
- Thread starter
- #8
Justin,
When I first called Mike he told me that he had a couple of orders in front of me so it would be a couple of weeks. I called Nov. 4, he said he'd start by the 16th, the goods arrived at my doorstep on the 19th to my pleasant suprise. We had good communication the whole time. I highly recomend his product.
Derrick
Looks good
This skid plate looks very solid and good protection for the studs.
This skid plate looks very solid and good protection for the studs.
- Thread starter
- #12
...speaking of the studs, although there is protection around the studs, they still protrude beyond approximately 3/16". I was thinking of grinding them flush so they can't catch on any rocks. I am interested in anyones opinion on this. Should I do this or not?
if you dont the rocks will
sandcruiser
....back in the saddle again....
the only downside to grinding the studs is that it will mean you have to get things lined up closer when you remove/reinstall.
I would do it.
I would do it.
Looks really good, I want it.
Good to hear!
- Thread starter
- #17
Sliders are done!
I got the sliders back from powder coating and installed them over the holiday weekend. I can't say enough about Mike's quality of work. The install went really smooth and the fit was perfect. Here are a few pics.
I got the sliders back from powder coating and installed them over the holiday weekend. I can't say enough about Mike's quality of work. The install went really smooth and the fit was perfect. Here are a few pics.
- Thread starter
- #20
The supporting arm shown in the picture above is the only one like that and it's the one that runs between the cats on my 97. It bolts directly into the four existing threaded holes in the side of the frame rail. The remaining supporting arms are attached with U bolts that wrap around the frame. I did this install by myself using a floor jack for support. The cat side was the easiest and only took about 15 minutes. The driver's side has the fuel lines up against the backside of the frame rail so it took a few extra minutes to pop the lines loose so I could slide the U bolts behind them, don't want to pinch those lines! Long story short, this install was really easy even by myself, no drilling or grinding necessary.
