Building a 1999-6/2009 79 series cluster with tachometer and subtank from parts (1 Viewer)

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Yeah, that’s a long thread title.

Finding an HZJ79 cluster with tach and subtanks for the old style metal dash, produced between 1999 and 6/2009, is getting really difficult.

So here’s how to build one from parts.

I started with a base cluster that I already owned.

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I reused the:

Speedometer 83220-60841
Computer, total counter module (aka trip odometer 83293-60690

These were available new but I wanted to save some dough (for once).

I had to reuse 3 lenses:

Lens, meter, no. 1 83832-60E10
Lens, meter, no. 2 83832-6B360
Lens, meter, no. 4,83833-6B360

Because I could not dig them up anywhere.

I missed one part:

Plate, combination meter, no. 1 83811-6B360

that I am waiting on availability confirmation.

Everything else was procured new from @Japan4X4 and Partsouq.
 
The meter case itself is different, as it has mounting points for the 3 extra gauges.

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The circuit trace is different, and parts like this make me appreciate Toyota so so so much.

Still being able to buy this stuff new is such a pleasure.

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Messily higjlighted are the 3 meter lenses I had to reuse.

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But look: even on the non-locker cluster…the locker icons are there. SWEEEEEEET!

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Nerding out: wearing my 4.5X surgical loupes to weasel the fragile lenses and little plastic parts apart.

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I think this is the most exciting thing to happen on my bedroom floor in years.
 
The turn signal lenses are available new
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Now, this is actually exciting. The tachometer was rumored to be long discontued. Even Stedman said it was a goner and had an email from Toyota to confirm…but sometime between 2017 and 2021 they decided to reactivate.

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Leyna is not impressed.

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Hint: install the side gauges (subtank and temp) first. The tachometer overlay will be in the way if you get all excited and install the tach first.

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The packaging is amazing.

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Note: the gauges are assemblies and come with their own complement of screws.

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Now: Partsouq is very helpful, but the 2002 HDJ79 cluster has a few discrepancies. It lists 7 screws to hold it all together. There are only 6 in the case, the gauge, and on the circuit trace. So it goes.

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Note: the longer self tapping screw is 90076-00002 (left). By my count you will need 15.
The side gauges are attached on the back side by 90076-00001 (right), 6 each, included in the gauge assembly.

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The whole thing is powered by the best screwdriver ever made, the Screwball. eBay search now, and buy one when you find it. It is the absolute best screwdriver I own. I collect these things.

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Getting close. Laying the circuit trace, I THINK this is a blind hole that should not get a screw. If anyone out there can confirm or deny, please let me know.
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Last edited:
Annelise, age 9, photobombed the case front.

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Nate remains unimpressed.
 
And that’s it.

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I have all new bulbs waiting. I’ll post up when I actually install.

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This thread seems to be powered by Pinthouse Brewing, at a rate of 3/4 IPA per cluster.

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There are 4 different bulbs:

Turn signal and high beams get the big boys:
90010-06026 x3.

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Fuel light gets 90010-06003. Bottom right on the back of cluster.

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Odometer gets 90010-06044.

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The others are all 83120-60020. You’ll need 19.

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Done, pending one internal bracket.

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Nicely done.

I assume the original ODO numbers are stored on an EEPROM on 83293-60690?
If so, I wonder if you could de-solder (if it isn't socketed), put it on a reader/writer, pull the code in HEX and write it back to zero. It's probably encrypted or something though.
 
I’ve been wondering if I could reprogram or flash it… Or I could just buy a brand new one for 180 bucks.
 
wow
 
Next steps:

The speedometer mph overlay (part C1690) arrived today from Lockwood International. It is very nicely constructed and was a perfect fit.

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I popped the needle off with two plastic levers from a cheapo Amazon door trim kit. It made a loud enough SNAP to be butthole tightening.

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I illuminated it from behind with a white LED light, and that was pretty rewarding.

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The speedometer needle rest pin is the next battle.
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Thanks to the big old brain of @ATL Cruiser I found a dedicated automotive instrument cluster repair shop here in Austin. I will ping them tomorrow and see if they have a replacement, and the right tools for the job.

Just putting the overlay over top of the existing kilometers per hour gauge face produces disappointing lighting results.

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If the repair shop doesn’t have a good solution, I will either 3D print one (AKA convince @davegonz to print me one), or just glue a black painted finishing nail onto the overlay.
 

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