Build my LV to trailer my 40?

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woytovich

woytovich

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So I am in the planning stages of the build of my LV. One possibility is to build it to use as a driver (not a wheeler) whose duties involve towing my FJ40 on a trailer. I was thinking v8, disc brake axle up front, 5 speed or robust auto tranny (w/tranny cooler), diff gears to get in the best possible ratio range), Power steering (with cooler)...

What else?

Is this a feasible plan or am I just hoping for too much out of an LV?

mark
 
In my opinion, the LV is not large enough to tow a vehicle on a trailer. Sure it could be upgraded to handle it, but it is still a pretty short wheelbase. I have had many a friend tell me to turn my LV into my tow rig.
I would not tow a vehicle on a trailer with anything less than a 3/4 ton pickup or the like. I have owned 2 different open deck trailers and now own a Hallmark enclosed trailer. I have towed all these with a extra cab long bed F250. It's nice to know that in an emergency situation, the tow rig can control and most importantly stop what your towing.
Here in AZ, there are alot of mountains to pull over. It's nice to feel comfortable going up and down those grades and not be white knuckle all the time. Plus I like the additional space, stability and power that a fullsize offers.
 
Unless you lift the body off the vintage frame and roll a 100 series frame under in it's place I would not tow a 40 on a trailer with a 45LV. Not near enough truck to control the load. Like JackA I prefer an older 3/4 ton or a near new 1/2 ton full size truck to tow that much load with.

Nick
 
Thanks guys... that's what I was thinking too... it was just a pie-in-the-sky idea... now put on the "don't do it" pile.
 
So... I've been thinking... what about flat towing or using a 2 wheel tow dolly? That would reduce the weight being towed considerably.

Mark
 
worse idea

An even worse idea. At least a trailer has brakes on all the wheels. Flat towing reduces the towed weight, but creates a trailer that wants to steer & wander more, and has no brakes.

Just build the FJ45 w/ built FJ60 running gear (2F, H55, 2.3 t-case, 4.56 FJ60 width axles, etc) and four wheel that mofo.:grinpimp:
 
I won't be wheeling the LV. It is destined to be a street cruiser/expedition truck.
 
https://forum.ih8mud.com/fj45-owners-club/527326-66-fj45lv-resto.html

I plan to tow with the 66 LV that I am building. 2UZ from a 2000 Tundra and a Trans and full time T-case from a 97 80 series. The truck will have a 80 series power steering box and FJ60 disk brakes with IFS calipers. It will aslo have a power master and booster from an 80. Rear brakes will be late FJ40 drums w parking brake, on a FF 40 housing.

4.10 80 diff in the rear w/ a Ironman e-locker, front 4.10 w/ a Torsen LSD

I figure the LV will weigh as much as my '03 Tundra and have a very similar drivetrain. With dual axle trailer brakes I figure 4-5k towing capacity should be very safe.
 
4-5K towing is not towing a 40 on a trailer.

It doesn't matter the power you have. A 2F could get it up to speed. You don't have the wheelbase. 104 vs. 128.2 on a Tundra. 104 is less than a Ranger or S10 and is about the same as a Toyota short bed hilux.

To be honest, people towed with station wagons 40 years ago. It can be done. Safely is relative. It has as much to do with the driver as it does with the vehicle. There are people who won't tow without a diesel and a dually and say I'm crazy for towing with a 1/2 ton.

I don't think I would tow a 40 with my LV and it's pretty far from stock. s*** happens. My Tundra handles it without issue. You would be is serious trouble in a 45.

and if you did wreck you would be in a much bigger world of hurt in a 45LV.

and you would wreck a 45LV.
 
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My 40 weighs 3500 lbs (yes i have weighed it) and my trailer weighs ~1500 lbs. My race car weighs 2500 lbs.
 
Another factor to figure with the WB is the distance from rear axle to hitch ball. A vehicle with a relatively long rear overhang (FJ45/55/60) is a less stable towing vehicle than something with similar WB but shorter ass.

The cruiser wagons seem to have the rear axle tucked up pretty far forward to allow for better off road manueverability, but at the expense of ass-bumpage coming off ledges and the aforementioned towing stability.
 
I learned about distance from rear axle to hitch the hard way. Well, almost... I have a kubota tractor with loader and also a set of rear forks on the 3 pt hitch. I drilled the front bucket for a VERY handy trailer ball. I have various trailers here and it's awesome to come under the ball, pick up the load of wood and back it over to the planer etc. Then for better visibility while hitching, I made a removeable receiver hitch for the end of the rear forks. All went well at first, but turning a corner on my hilly terrain, while towing my 15' travel trailer downhill, there was so much leverage, it just kept twisting the tractor around and got me jacknifed and one rear wheel up off the groung, before coming to rest. It's a 26 hp diesel 4wd tractor and will pull just about anything, but that rear overhang will get you into trouble quickly. I did however, tow that 15 footer for a month long family vacation behind my '79 fj55 in the mid 90's. I will never, ever forget coming down a switchbacked ridge leading into Death Valley feeling all the while that the pig was trying it's darndest to push us to our death, and run us off the cliff. I have avoided all mountain roads since that day if at all possible. OK, lunch over, back to work.
 
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