Build an extension / modular ending for a 2" OD tow or cargo square bar? (14 Viewers)

[Brian in Oregon]

Hitch Cargo Carriers | Cargo Carrier | Hitch Cargo Racks - Part 3

Check out this clever hitch tightener. Scroll down a little more than halfway on this blog.

 

[e9999]

Hitch Cargo Carriers | Cargo Carrier | Hitch Cargo Racks - Part 3

Check out this clever hitch tightener. Scroll down a little more than halfway on this blog.

thanks, yes, seen those. I think that's one of the better designs and easy to DIY.

 

[e9999]

well, haven't built my tongue extension yet but I did get a couple of extensions, the better one with a solid shank. I think that's really desirable. If not that, at least 1/4" thickness.

I also did put some beads on some of my gizmos, extensions, pintle hooks and the like to try and get rid of the slop, as per Brian's suggestion. That was a great idea.

Well, it worked pretty well. Slop is much reduced. I put beads on 3 sides. Was pretty tedious actually, between the welding, grinding, checking, regrinding, rechecking etc. I took my sweet time to get as little slop as possible. Not perfect but much better.

Unfortunately, the downside is that I custom fit it all to the 80 and the gizmos won't fit the 100 receiver any more. I could grind more but then of course there'll be more slop in the 80. Not fitting the 100 is an issue. But for now at least, all is good.

 

[BMThiker]

Maybe grind your weld beads to fit the 100 and use the silicone method when using the 80?

Or add weld beads on the receiver tube near the reinforcing ring and grind to fit on each truck. You may have to start anew with the gizmos and grind down some of those beads to make this method work.

 

[ntsqd]

Why not a slider dedicated to each truck?

 

[e9999]

Maybe grind your weld beads to fit the 100 and use the silicone method when using the 80?

Or add weld beads on the receiver tube near the reinforcing ring and grind to fit on each truck. You may have to start anew with the gizmos and grind down some of those beads to make this method work.

well, I don't want to use silicone, want to be able to remove inserts easily on the road.
Yes, could put a bead on the receiver. But I try to go by the "modify the cheap part, not the expensive one" rule whenever I can and I'm not that good a welder yet. And less easy to grind.

Why not a slider dedicated to each truck?

if you mean buy a second of each of my inserts and I have like 9 or 10, I suppose I could. But I'd rather live with a bit more slop.




I have to admit it did not cross my mind that I would not be able to use the "tuned" inserts in my other truck. Dang...

 

[ntsqd]

I have nearly that many sliders and most of them sit somewhere waiting for their chance to trip me. I only use a couple. One with ~8" of drop on the CTD and one with ~2" drop on Patch. I'd only need a second ~2" drop to take my own advice as I use it on either truck only when pulling the TrailBlazer.

 

[cblackard]

What if you drilled a 5/8' hole in the top of the reciever, welded a 9/16" nut over it and used a 9/16" short bolt to tighten down onto the hitch after it is pinned into the reciever?

Something lke this:

 

[e9999]

What if you drilled a 5/8' hole in the top of the reciever, welded a 9/16" nut over it and used a 9/16" short bolt to tighten down onto the hitch after it is pinned into the reciever?

Something lke this:

Nice sketch. Possible of course but my gut feeling -not substantiated by an actual trial- is that the stresses would be too localized and something would give.

 

[BMThiker]

Just need more weld-nuts fixed to it. One fore and aft of the hitch pin and in both the X and Y direction.

 

[cblackard]

Nice sketch. Possible of course but my gut feeling -not substantiated by an actual trial- is that the stresses would be too localized and something would give.

I think, with the correct bolt and nut, and a very solid weld, it could hold up quite well.

I would use a fine thread bolt (could go larger than 9/16", say 5/8")

I think about the stress applied to the torsion bar bolts on IFS Toyotas and think if those threads can hold up, then this should work pretty good.

Just a thought...

 

[ntsqd]

It isn't the threads or the weld that are first in jeopardy, it is the unsupported tube wall of the slider where the bolt pushes on it. That is assuming that the bolt is placed on center. If placed close to the edge then you have to worry about the tube wall buckling, which would make removal a real PITA.

That slider that I siliconed all those years ago? It was a major PITA X2 to remove the first time (no mold release used), but the silicone is still stuck to it (RightStuff) and mostly doing the job that I intended. Might be worth spraying the inside of the looser fit receiver with some sort of mold release agent and curing the silicone to the sliders.