BudBuilt CATALYTIC CONVERTER GUARD installation (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter chris777
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bloc
SILVER Star
The "problem" with higher grades of stainless is they are more prone to the galling issue. This is why they often aren't used as fasteners, more than it just being a more expensive base material.
Just be sure you use a good anti-seize.
Just be sure you use a good anti-seize.
gaijin
GOLD Star
You bet!
This has been my go-to for awhile:
Product blurb:
Loctite: Copper Anti-Seize Stick for High Temp (Part#: 37616)
Loctite Copper Anti-Seize Stick provides a shield against high temperature seizing and galling. Studs, bolts, flanges and other mated parts can be removed easily in typical dry service temperatures up to 1800°F (982°C). The copper antiseize stick can be used on copper, brass, cast iron, all steel alloys including stainless steel, all plastics, and all non-metallic gasketing materials.HTH
bloc
SILVER Star
I personally like nickel based anti-seize between stainless parts, but it is more difficult to find as well as more expensive.
Realistically this is neither a high enough torque or heat environment that the copper wouldn’t work well enough.
Realistically this is neither a high enough torque or heat environment that the copper wouldn’t work well enough.
Julian73
SILVER Star
I recommend Ultra Tef-Gel developed for the aviation industry and used in the marine industry as an anti-seize and corrosion eliminator between stainless steel and aluminum.
So it’s been a bit more than a month since I installed my Bud Built cat guards. (Though I did drive about 4000 miles in that time)
I just checked the tightness on the bolts and the front bolts had worked themselves pretty loose. I’m glad I checked.
But does this mean I didn’t tighten them enough initially?
Or does it mean I just need to check them periodically?
And I did put anti-seize, but would loctite blue be a bad idea?
I just checked the tightness on the bolts and the front bolts had worked themselves pretty loose. I’m glad I checked.
But does this mean I didn’t tighten them enough initially?
Or does it mean I just need to check them periodically?
And I did put anti-seize, but would loctite blue be a bad idea?
bloc
SILVER Star
The front bolts that go into the crossmember above the stock splash guard?
Going too tight could damage the splash guard, even with the metal insert. I wonder if part of the issue is the span between the front and rear mounting points being in a position to change lengths slightly with flexing in the frame as the vehicle goes down the road.
Personally I’d try to clean out the anti-seize as much as possible then use a medium-grade thread locker like loc-tite blue 242. With this you can use the factory torque spec and even if it backs off slightly from movement due to what I mention above, once clamping force has lessened it won’t back off any more due to the resistance provided by the thread locker.
Well, yes. The front bolt that goes in above the stock splash guard.
But upon further inspection, even the rear bolt was loose.
Oddly, this was the diver side. The two bolts on the passenger side were still pretty snug.
I did the driver side first, so maybe I didn’t tighten them enough initially?
Or lazy thieves went after my Cat converters and then quit when they got tired? (Joke).
But I guess I’ll watch it closely for another few weeks to see if they loosen. And if so, I’ll try the loctite.
As I posted in early August...
Speaking of removing nuts, our 2 Belgian Shepherds have a run of the place at night. They'd announce strangers in the parking area and welcome the bad guys in their own way. There's also a 12 gauge Ithaca inside over the door, guaranteeing a speedy "removal".
Speaking of removing nuts, our 2 Belgian Shepherds have a run of the place at night. They'd announce strangers in the parking area and welcome the bad guys in their own way. There's also a 12 gauge Ithaca inside over the door, guaranteeing a speedy "removal".
Just read @chris777 's horror thread, and ordered the BudBuilt skids last night, ahead of a planned cross-country drive in March to the Grand Canyon. They showed as in stock, but I don't have shipping info yet. Thankful (as always) for all of the great info in this thread and on this board. Now to figure out where to get some ramps or jack stands, and to order some anti-seize....
Ordinarily our LC is parked in a garage when not in use, but the Mrs. daily drives it and frequents several obvious "urban watering holes" / quick-theft spots (supermarket, gym, etc.) where predators surely lurk. Occasional chocolate labrador retriever co-pilot would doubtless act as an affectionate welcoming committee for any visitors, so that's no help. Hopefully these plates will trigger the move-along response, if it comes to that.
As an aside, I spoke to a local cop about this last night while out walking said lab, who said that he himself was just recently a victim of cat theft. '94 Honda Accord; he didn't say where it was parked when it happened. He did say that he ordered a whole new exhaust (off of eBay), as just replacing the cat(s) would have been more expensive after accounting for labor / welding costs. He said cat theft wasn't an issue right within our little Monaco-like bubble (the "Park Cities") within greater Dallas, but that right across the highway (I75) it's a regular thing. Given the enormous population of LCs and LX570s criss-crossing the streets and parked outside here, I'm wondering if perhaps the LC/LX isn't that high on the preferred list, or if the thieves just "know" to stay away?
Ordinarily our LC is parked in a garage when not in use, but the Mrs. daily drives it and frequents several obvious "urban watering holes" / quick-theft spots (supermarket, gym, etc.) where predators surely lurk. Occasional chocolate labrador retriever co-pilot would doubtless act as an affectionate welcoming committee for any visitors, so that's no help. Hopefully these plates will trigger the move-along response, if it comes to that.
As an aside, I spoke to a local cop about this last night while out walking said lab, who said that he himself was just recently a victim of cat theft. '94 Honda Accord; he didn't say where it was parked when it happened. He did say that he ordered a whole new exhaust (off of eBay), as just replacing the cat(s) would have been more expensive after accounting for labor / welding costs. He said cat theft wasn't an issue right within our little Monaco-like bubble (the "Park Cities") within greater Dallas, but that right across the highway (I75) it's a regular thing. Given the enormous population of LCs and LX570s criss-crossing the streets and parked outside here, I'm wondering if perhaps the LC/LX isn't that high on the preferred list, or if the thieves just "know" to stay away?
For what it’s worth, I was able to install mine without ramps or jack stands.
It’s a tight squeeze but possible.
And remember that the jack that came with the LC is useful in holding one end of the cat guard up as you bolt on the other end.
scottm
SILVER Star
I've used low-strength thread locker to prevent fastener corrosion on my vehicles in Michigan for decades. Used liberally, thread locker fills the thread space with a plastic seal. Super glue works as well.
My garage is being built, hoping to start projects like this soon.
My garage is being built, hoping to start projects like this soon.
Soooo, the BudBuilt cat guards finally arrived (thank you "severe weather conditions" in TX for a ~5 day delay), as did my new Esco 3-ton 10498 jack stands (two thumbs up on those, BTW).
BLUF: got the passenger side guard installed, but now will have a new project (re-tapping the threads on the driver side skid plate location) before I can do the driver side.
The guards are, as others have said, beefier than expected - very nice. Edges on my guards were not rough - easy to handle them with bare / nitrile gloved hands. Package included instruction sheet (as already posted in this thread), plus all hardware: hex keyed bolts & washers (for the front, to replace the factory hex head skid plate bolts) and long security carriage bolts, fender washers, lock washers and nuts (for the rear). Everything lined up perfectly, and felt really well designed and executed.
Tools in hand (12mm socket for the OEM skid plate bolts, hex head socket (5mm), ratcheting closed-end wrench (15mm), Loctite copper anti-seize), I went to install the driver side guard first. Climbing under the LC, I find that the OEM skid plate bolt on that side is missing...hmmm...must be the result of an oil change or prior service gone wrong. Oh well, I figure I'll just install the new bolt and washer and drive on. I reach around the jack stand to start it by hand, but the new bolt won't go in more than about 1-2 turns before coming to a dead stop. WTF?
Being a proud silverback, I back it all the way out, re-thread it in by hand again, and hit the same stop point. Two more times again, just to be sure. Then I grab the Makita cordless - no joy, just clicking. They I take a ratchet...and proceed to strip the head of the hex keyed bolt. Great job a$$hole. It's now in there good and tight - I can't even get the jammed bolt out with pliers. What a moron.
Undaunted (read: enraged), I went over to the passenger side to see if I couldn't screw that up as well. I found the OEM hex head bolt right where it's supposed to be. Removed that (needed a breaker bar to loosen it - yipes!), test-fit the new hex keyed bolt (with copper anti-seize) - everything worked fine. Slotted the BudBuilt cat guard in, hand tightened the bolt to hold it up, and threaded up the rear carriage bolt assembly. Was done in like 3 minutes.
Summary report: great product, easy installation (especially with jack stands and 15mm ratcheting head wrench), and don't be an idiot like me.
Now off to find an independent to help remove the stuck bolt and re-tap those threads....
/ON EDIT: does anyone know the correct torque specs for either the skid plate bolts or the new carriage bolts at the rear of the cat guards?
BLUF: got the passenger side guard installed, but now will have a new project (re-tapping the threads on the driver side skid plate location) before I can do the driver side.
The guards are, as others have said, beefier than expected - very nice. Edges on my guards were not rough - easy to handle them with bare / nitrile gloved hands. Package included instruction sheet (as already posted in this thread), plus all hardware: hex keyed bolts & washers (for the front, to replace the factory hex head skid plate bolts) and long security carriage bolts, fender washers, lock washers and nuts (for the rear). Everything lined up perfectly, and felt really well designed and executed.
Tools in hand (12mm socket for the OEM skid plate bolts, hex head socket (5mm), ratcheting closed-end wrench (15mm), Loctite copper anti-seize), I went to install the driver side guard first. Climbing under the LC, I find that the OEM skid plate bolt on that side is missing...hmmm...must be the result of an oil change or prior service gone wrong. Oh well, I figure I'll just install the new bolt and washer and drive on. I reach around the jack stand to start it by hand, but the new bolt won't go in more than about 1-2 turns before coming to a dead stop. WTF?
Being a proud silverback, I back it all the way out, re-thread it in by hand again, and hit the same stop point. Two more times again, just to be sure. Then I grab the Makita cordless - no joy, just clicking. They I take a ratchet...and proceed to strip the head of the hex keyed bolt. Great job a$$hole. It's now in there good and tight - I can't even get the jammed bolt out with pliers. What a moron.
Undaunted (read: enraged), I went over to the passenger side to see if I couldn't screw that up as well. I found the OEM hex head bolt right where it's supposed to be. Removed that (needed a breaker bar to loosen it - yipes!), test-fit the new hex keyed bolt (with copper anti-seize) - everything worked fine. Slotted the BudBuilt cat guard in, hand tightened the bolt to hold it up, and threaded up the rear carriage bolt assembly. Was done in like 3 minutes.
Summary report: great product, easy installation (especially with jack stands and 15mm ratcheting head wrench), and don't be an idiot like me.
Now off to find an independent to help remove the stuck bolt and re-tap those threads....
/ON EDIT: does anyone know the correct torque specs for either the skid plate bolts or the new carriage bolts at the rear of the cat guards?
Someone else asked, with no reply that I saw…has anyone tried to install the BudBuilt Cat guards with ARB skid plates?
bloc
SILVER Star
I haven’t tried but do have the ARB skids and don’t see how they’d possibly fit.
[SNIP]
@gaijin Would you mind sharing from where you got your 316 stainless hardware (including any specs / part numbers)? I'd like to do the same.
Also, since I have the stock skid plates, I'm wondering if it makes any sense to switch to the hex keyed bolts for the front attachments (as provided by BudBuilt). I suppose it's a choice between convenience for oil changes and prop shaft lube vs. trying to create an obstacle to theft. My simplistic thinking:
- If it's a random/opportunistic "mall parking lot" type of cat thief, trying to get in and out as quickly as absolutely possible, maybe there's no real world difference in theft difficulty between 12mm hex head bolt and hex keyed bolt - the guards themselves will do their job and send the thief off to an easier mark, before they bother to see how the guards are attached.
- However, if the thief is more dedicated and has got better / longer access to the LC (say, middle-of-the-night public parking garage access), maybe with a floor jack and some other tools, then perhaps something like Torx or some other security bolt head might be even better.
gaijin
GOLD Star
From McMaster-Carr: (McMaster-Carr Home Page)
Pick and choose those which float your boat:
316 Stainless Steel Split Lock Washer
for M8 Socket Head Screws, 8.5 mm ID, 12.7 mm OD
1
Pack of 50 each
316 Stainless Steel Wedge Lock Washer
for 5/16" and M8 Screw Size, 0.34" ID, 0.53" OD
1
Pack of 5 pairs
316 Stainless Steel Square-Neck Carriage Bolt
Super-Corrosion-Resistant, 3/8"-16 Thread Size, 3-1/2" Long
2
Packs of 1 each
18-8 Stainless Steel Oversized Washer
for M8 Screw Size, 8.4 mm ID, 22 mm OD
1
Pack of 1 each
316 Stainless Steel Flange Nuts
Super-Corrosion-Resistant, 3/8"-16 Thread Size
1
Pack of 25 each
316 Stainless Steel Wedge Lock Washer
for 3/8" Screw Size, 0.41" ID, 0.83" OD
2
Packs of 1 pair
316 Stainless Steel Washer
Oversized, 3/8" Screw Size, 0.406" ID, 2" OD
1
Pack of 5 each
316 Stainless Steel Button Head Hex Drive Screws
M8 x 1.25 mm Thread, 40mm Long
1
Pack of 10 each
18-8 Stainless Steel Single-Wave Washer
for M8 Screw Size, 8.4 mm ID, 15 mm OD
1
Pack of 50 each
18-8 Stainless Steel Oversized Washer
for M8 Screw Size, 8.4 mm ID, 22 mm OD
2
Packs of 1 each
316 Stainless Steel Spring Lock Washer
Curved, DIN 137A, for M8 Screw Size, 8.4 mm ID, 15 mm OD
1
Pack of 100 each
HTH
FrazzledHunter
SILVER Star
While preparing for our upcoming trip I went and did the unthinkable which was to crawl under the truck to look for anything that might be wrong BEFORE we got to camp. I checked the 5MM bolt tightness and found the passenger side tight but the driver's side had backed out about half!!! I don't know what happened as I tightened them both really good and tight almost to the point of bending the Allen wrench.
So you might want to check the bolts now and then.
So you might want to check the bolts now and then.
