Broken Torsion Bar Adjustmet Bolt, source question

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Griffin

Griffin

10 Year
Joined
Mar 21, 2011
Threads
28
Messages
715
Location
West GA
So I was adjusting the 100s torsion bars Saturday morning and BAM, broke whats got to be one of the bigger bolts on my rig. After drilling/burning out the bolt, we had to improvise by adding a standard bolt with lock washer and nut, otherwise I'd be driving with some serious gangsta lean.

Question - anyone have a source for the fully threaded adjustment bolt? Better yet, what about the anchor - or whatever it's called - that the bolt threads through?

Thanks!

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All can be purchased from a Toyota dealer. Lowe Toyota in Atlanta is a site sponsor and offers attractive discounts. Suggest you get factory parts asap.
 
That is something you will HAVE to buy from Toyota. Those are very special bolts, I wouldn't even drive on hardware store stuff. They're usually only about $10 each.
 
good idea, Lowe hooked it up.

And the lil threaded piece, the one the bolt broke inside of, is called a Anchor Swivel....go figure.

cheers
 
I think I may have cross threaded mine the last time I indexed because it was insanely hard to rotate even with a 2' bar. Good info. Probably going to have to use an impact with 800 ftlbs to get it out.
 
was definitely miss threaded for us. A friend and I were using a 4-foot cheater with a long ratchet when it broke. The other side's adjustment bolt went up and down with relative ease using a impact wrench.

The bolt and both swivels arrived in the mail yesterday, $70 delivered.
 
Mine was cross threaded as well. Paul and I were going ape s*** on that thing for hours with a 4' breaker bar. It didn't break off, just cross threaded at the top, the entire bolt was ruined.
 
Griffin said:
was definitely miss threaded for us. A friend and I were using a 4-foot cheater with a long ratchet when it broke. The other side's adjustment bolt went up and down with relative ease using a impact wrench.

The bolt and both swivels arrived in the mail yesterday, $70 delivered.
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Holy s***! $70 for a bolt?!
 
I went ahead and bought the entire set up, bolt, swivel and seat.

48169-60010 Swivel Anchor, $41.85
48173-60010 Anchor Seat, $17.35
90101-18010 Hex Bolt, $7.33

+tax
 
How hard were you cranking that bolt to snap it? I had a 4' breaker bar and two people wailing on it. I couldn't imagine the sound it made. We are going to Windrock (Steve and I) the 11th. Ill shoot ya a PM later
 
two of us with a 4' cheat, one pulling, the other pushing, BANG! Just installed the OEM setup an hour ago with an impact wrench, easy peasy.
 
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I didn't see above, but did you spray the original one with PB blaster or similar before adjusting it? I have found it helps with adjusting. I also put a dab of antisieze on the thread before i installed the OME torsion bars.
 
Layonnn said:
I didn't see above, but did you spray the original one with PB blaster or similar before adjusting it? I have found it helps with adjusting. I also put a dab of antisieze on the thread before i installed the OME torsion bars.
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Blasting it may have helped but all the original hardware was replaced when I did the slee lift just over a year ago, so it wasn't an issue of rust/old bolts.
 
Anthony.L said:
Wow, glad I have a West Coast vehicle. My torsion bolts moved easily with a foot long 1/2 socket wrench.
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Mine has spent its whole life in south and central Alabama and I adjusted mine the first time yesterday without any PB blaster and a 18" breaker bar.
 
BamaHeel said:
Mine has spent its whole life in south and central Alabama and I adjusted mine the first time yesterday without any PB blaster and a 18" breaker bar.
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Yep. Mine was adjusted first time (4 years ago) with the tires on the ground and a 1" ratchet. Second time was for torsion bars, bolt cross threaded on the backing out stage. which brings me to my assumption that adjusting on the ground screws up the threads and causes cross threading.
 
2000UZJ said:
Yep. Mine was adjusted first time (4 years ago) with the tires on the ground and a 1" ratchet. Second time was for torsion bars, bolt cross threaded on the backing out stage. which brings me to my assumption that adjusting on the ground screws up the threads and causes cross threading.
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You had the wheel on the ground while adjusting? That's just asking for trouble. Nevertheless, I cross threaded mine with the wheel off the ground. I think it just has to do with us naturally expecting a lot of resistance, so it is harder to tell when it's not threaded correctly.
 
mechanixhorseman said:
You had the wheel on the ground while adjusting? That's just asking for trouble. Nevertheless, I cross threaded mine with the wheel off the ground. I think it just has to do with us naturally expecting a lot of resistance, so it is harder to tell when it's not threaded correctly.
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I'm surprised to hear about he cross-threading situations. I recently swapped my torsion bars, and in the process cleaned the torsion bar adjustment bolts. With the clean bolts, I could easily tighten the bolt with my fingers until the bar started to resist... which made it pretty easy to feel comfortable in having the threads running correctly.

Perhaps cleaning the bolts and their counterparts were the key to such easy effort...
 
sonk76 said:
I'm surprised to hear about he cross-threading situations. I recently swapped my torsion bars, and in the process cleaned the torsion bar adjustment bolts. With the clean bolts, I could easily tighten the bolt with my fingers until the bar started to resist... which made it pretty easy to feel comfortable in having the threads running correctly.

Perhaps cleaning the bolts and their counterparts were the key to such easy effort...
Click to expand...

Could be. Had I realized a new bolt/anchor assembly would run 70 I probably would have been a little more careful. Lesson learned I guess.
 
We had a bolt strip on us today. Effin rust!
Cristo @ Slee has the parts in stock also Onur aka BENO with Nalley Toyota can get them.
 
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