Broken Front Hub Bolts Repair

[AdventureToolCompany]

So I was checking the front hubs on the Working Pig and making sure that the hub bolts were tight when I put a wrench on one and it spun freely....I pulled the bolt and noticed that it had broken where it enters the axle hub. Checking both sides I found two lost bolts and three broken bolts. It appears the force of pushing a snow plow for so many years has taken its toll on the hub bolts. The hubs are the original Warn hubs.

My questions are:

- Has anyone had similar problems and how did you remove the broken bolt from the axle hub?

- What size are the bolts and where did you source them?

Thanks for your help.

 

[3_puppies]

you may have more issues than you think. there should be 2 alignment dowels, if they are gone/broke that would put all the stress on the bolts, thus breaking them.

 

[AdventureToolCompany]

Good to know. I haven't pulled the hubs yet, so this is good info to look for. Thx

 

[scrapdaddy]

Paul,

If you can remove the hub, you might be able to get a vise grips on the stud.

I put all new ones made by ARP and got them from Trail Gear. Not cheap for the whole kit.

Good luck with it.

 

[Delancy]

got them from Trail Gear.

How's the saying go?

"If you got 'em from Trail Gear, it must mean you don't need 'em." Haha.

I'm sure most all others will have better luck with vendor sourced "ARP" products, but I have not and won't name names.

Simple wheel bearing check after the first 1k on the 80 netted me two snapped studs on one hub, being sold as ARP in the black oxide flavor.

The most they had been torqued to was 24lbs when installed and one other torque check before heading to the rocks.

When swapping all back to OEMs, had three others snap, one strip, and all had corroded inside the threaded hub body.

Regardless, I contacted ARP who explained that some retailers of their products buy in lot quantities of a specified grade, tensile strength, and coating, that ARP may simply provide product to, but nothing further.

I realize the benefit of vendors doing this, as it does make it possible to offer an otherwise unattainable product, BUT because ARP makes doesn't mean it affords the same traits as we may associate "ARP" with on other products.

I've run ARP specific head bolts on every POS domestic diesel I've owned and run the wheel studs for an IS300 on the wheelers, but swapped out all the hub studs for OEs since I couldn't find anything specifically from them in a "kit" or quantity specific form for the 80, and think I spent less than I did on the ARPs they replaced.

Verbose, to offer a different perspective.

I'm not the luckiest, which may have a lot to do with my experiences and Ron's endorsement should speak volumes over my issues.

 

[scrapdaddy]

Thanks Delancy, now you put the whammy on me! I've used ARP studs on different things over the years and used them on the knuclkes on the 71, too. Mine are the Cad. plated looking ones, just the hub kit was over $100. I got the knuckle studs from Marlin.

Something else to worry about.

 

[AdventureToolCompany]

Scrapdaddy-

Thanks for the pictures! Everything is a work of art on your rig! Hope to get at them before the real snow starts falling.

 

[Delancy]

Something else to worry about.

It was eluded to that the CAD plated are a better product for this application, though they didn't come right out and say that.

Both the hub and knuckle studs I received were not and it was said that at three times the 24lb torque spec they still shouldn't have snapped, especially on removal.

Who knows why?

Sending tidings of Cruiser karma your way to ensure yours are all good. Haha.

 

[Midgainc]

I had one broken dowel and some missing hub screws on mine. I ordered the socket head screws through my bolt company, and was fortunate to have another warn hub on a parts rig. The dowel is pretty easy to get out. Also, I got the SAE equivalent of B7 hardness so that they would be strong.

 

[AdventureToolCompany]

Thanks!