Broken bolt/bumpstop question and help

[Fireguy]

So when I was installing my Slee 4" I broke the head off of one of the rear bolts holding the rear bumpstop in place. The break was flush with the frame and so far I cannot get it out. I stopped by the local 4WheelParts out of desperation to see if they can get it out. They said that within the frame there is a nut that they bolt screws into. They said worst case scenario they would have to cut into the frame to weld a new bolt when they get the rear bolt out! I told them no way in hell are they cutting into my frame.

My question is - does anyone know if the bolts for the rear bumpstops just screw into the frame, or is there a welded nut up inside the frame that the bolts are screwing into?

 

[specialk396]

Drill out the broken bolt either way. Don't let anyone cut the frame. I use left handed drill bits for this purpose, along with generous amounts of PB blaster

 

[86tuning]

Which bumpstop? Rear inner? rear outer? Front?

Yes to drilling. Then re-tap the threads.

Left-hand drills are not required, a regular set of heavy duty drill bits works best. I have some carbide 135deg drill bits for this exact reason. Center punch EXACTLY in the center, then 1/8" drill, then step up directly to the biggest drill that will clear the threads. Wear safety glasses when drilling upwards to help keep chips out of your eyes. A dust mask (or even a towel!) works great to keep the chips out of your nose/mouth and out of your collar.

If you munch up the threads just go oversize with the drill. Then you can just fish a nut into the frame via one of the various holes. Get somebody to tack weld a nut onto the end of a piece of welding rod (or a coat hanger) and you can push that baybee into place. Run the new bolt up thru the old frame nut and the new nut. Clip off the end of the coat hanger and you're done. If the tack welds are tiny, you can even simply twist the welding rod and bust it off the nut after it's all bolted up. If you're going with the tiny tack welds, get a few nuts done so you have spares

I've had to do this with the weld-nuts used for a trailer hitch before. PITA but you do what you gotta do.

HTH

 

[kidglove13]

You should be able to just drill and retap the existing nut in the frame
I am dealing with this same problem with a rear sway bolt on the axle
I plan on just drilling it out and tapping the nut for a different size bolt

 

[Ebag333]

Left-hand drills are not required, a regular set of heavy duty drill bits works best.

Nice thing about left handed drill bits is that they can spin out the stuck bolt.

If they don't, you've got a start for an easy out (which I hate....). Or you can just finish drilling it out as you suggested.

 

[Offroads4x4]

Nice thing about left handed drill bits is that they can spin out the stuck bolt.

If they don't, you've got a start for an easy out (which I hate....). Or you can just finish drilling it out as you suggested.

X2 Works great.
I have seen many removed by drilling it out and tapping the hole.
However if it came to down to cutting the frame to replace the nut my 1st choice would be to plasma cut a circle around it. Next weld a washer to a nut the same size thread and weld it in by small tack welds until it fully welded in place. Make sure to mark the center of the nuts location before you cut it out so you can center the nut back up. Any hole you cut in the frame needs to be welded back up in my opinion but cutting should be your last resort.
JM2C

 

[landtank]

a left handed drill bit won't touch a rust seized bolt here in New England.

I break 2 or 3 on every suspension job I do. Just drill it out and retap to M8x1.25. No big deal

 

[86tuning]

Nice thing about left handed drill bits is that they can spin out the stuck bolt.

If they don't, you've got a start for an easy out (which I hate....). Or you can just finish drilling it out as you suggested.

Left hand drills are handy on bolts that break due to overtightening during installation. They will often spin the broken portion of the bolt out. Super slick for that application.

However, if the bolt is rusted in place, and breaks during removal, regular bits will work just fine. And are usually what people have in their toolboxes

Frame cutting is definately not on the menu....

Cheers!

 

[Ebag333]

However, if the bolt is rusted in place, and breaks during removal, regular bits will work just fine. And are usually what people have in their toolboxes

At least here in the PNW, even "rusted" bolts will be as likely as not to spin out.

I can't imagine Las Vegas (where the OP is) can be much worse as far as rust goes.

Point is....it can't hurt to use a left handed drill bit. If it spins out, bonus. If it doesn't, then you've already started drilling it out anyway, so it's not like any time is lost.