broke two studs installing wheel spacers!

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lovetoski

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Not sure if I should be mad or glad. I bought a set of wheel spacers from trail-gear. (Chose them because of the good comments on their customer service on mud.) Their instructions say to torque to 100 ft lbs (with anti-seize). FSM says 90 ft lbs. I followed the Trail-Gear instructions. First spacer went on fine. Second spacer not so fine. Broke two of the studs (the OEM ones, not the studs in the spacers).

Should I be mad at Trail-Gear for their higher torque value?
Should I be mad at myself for following instructions? (enjoy the irony)
Or should I be glad that the two studs broke in my driveway, and not 400 miles from home?

My anal-rententive/overbuild it side says to be proacctive and replace all the studs - but it would be a pain in the rear....and it's dumping in the mountains so I'd prefer to waste my time skiing rather than wrenching.

Summary:
Should I be mad or glad?
Should I replace all the studs?

PS - wierd to see the thread by chichifly about driving on broken studs...CDan must have too many in inventory and his voodoo kicked in...
 
Well, the FSM says 90 ft-lbs dry, so with the antiseize you definitly overtorqued the studs at 100 ft-lbs. I would say replace the broken ones and call it good (maybe do all the studs on the side you broke the studs on since you already have it apart).

-Matt
 
That is odd that you broke them at 100ft-lbs. That's about what I torque mine to and that's the spec as far as I know - my Toyota factory manual says - torque value for wheel nut is 101 ft-lbs. Mine don't seem even close to overtightened. I would replace them if I were you. You don't want to get ANY antisieze on the face of the nut - only inside. Something isn't right about that. Just my 2 cents.

ps - I just replaced all my front studs with OEM toyota. They were $6.68 a piece from Glenwood Springs Toyota - ($80.86 for twelve). CDan can probably beat that.
 
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I would say your torque didn't break them. They were probably fractured from some knuckle head with an impact gun at some time or another. You torquing just showed the flaws.

replace them all. Don't buy them Toyota. I bought 3 from Toyota and they were 11 canadian each. So 9 US. I went to auto parts store they pulled the catalogue and compared the one I brought in to a diagram and sold me a some at 1.50 each.

I bet big tire shops stock them. Yank one of the broken ones and take it in to compare.
They look at the spline and dimensions.
 
Replace all the studs on the side you broke.
you are gonna have it apart anyway.. Just as easy to do 6 as it is to do 2
 
If you have the rotor out take it a mechanic and have them press out the old studs. Cost you a couple of bucks and save to the hassle of pounding them all out.

good luck,
p

p.s. be happy you have ski able snow. I stuck here in the midwest with 20 second runs and no powder. i miss good snow
 
Is it possible that your torque wrench has been dropped or maybe is just out of calibration?One of my buddies and I snapped a bolt for a fly wheel once while replacing a clutch using a jacked up torque wrench."That feels really tight".... ......**SNAP** "aww poooo".
Any way just a thought.
 
Your factory studs should not have failed at 100 pounds. I would not be upset with the vendor. I'm sure that I always take mine that tight (or tighter even!).


Mark...
 
Thanks for the reply's guys.

This 60 has over 300,000 miles on it. That's a lot of stress on wheel studs. Prolly a bunch of tire shop rattle guns in 20 years too. I'm not surprised they broke, just wondering whether to replace only the broken ones or all of them.

U-bolts are torqued to 90 ft-lbs, and are supposed to be replaced whenever they're removed. Wheel studs have the same torque value in the FSM, but obviously aren't replaced often.

I don't understand the difference? Are they different grades of steel?

I don't usually put antisieze on the wheel studs. Did this make a big difference? The two broken studs are on the rear. I haven't installed the spacers on the front yet. Should I use anti-sieze on the front?
 
ok, is ani-sieze a bad thing. i know of people who have used grease on studs only to have their tire fall off a kilometer down the road. i got rear studs at napa for like $2.31 cad or something. they're not too expensive might as well do all six while your in there.
 
I say change all 6 studs and if you know or think they are the originals why wait for them to snap??
I had 3 studs snap on me after I put the front tire back as I was doing other work under the truck.
Good thing I was only a couple of block away from home when it happened.
I changed all 12 of them and will do the rear soon.
 
ok, is ani-sieze a bad thing. i know of people who have used grease on studs only to have their tire fall off a kilometer down the road. i got rear studs at napa for like $2.31 cad or something. they're not too expensive might as well do all six while your in there.
antisieze is not a bad thing, if they fell off in a mile (or KM) or so they were not more than hand tight..
 
antisieze is not a bad thing, if they fell off in a mile (or KM) or so they were not more than hand tight..


Like he said.

But be careful not to get any on the taper(chamfer) whatever. The face that contacts the wheel must be dry. Otherwise the nut can back off. So if you use antisieze you it sparingly

And you only need a drop on the threads. Gooping it on is not good.

I concur you should replace all the studs. Its a pain to pull the hub to change studs. So you only want to do it once.

Take the hub to a big tire shop to get new ones pressed in, and buy them there.

You can do it your self. You put a nut over the threads to preven mushrooming of the stud and you pound them out with a big hammer. 3 pound worked for me. A press is ideal though.
 
Like he said.

But be careful not to get any on the taper(chamfer) whatever. The face that contacts the wheel must be dry. Otherwise the nut can back off. So if you use antisieze you it sparingly

And you only need a drop on the threads. Gooping it on is not good.
.

I was installing the spacers in the dark, and I bet I got some anti-sieze on the face of the nut. Live and learn. Good news is I was doing the rear first, so haven't touched the fronts. I'll do them more carefully. New studs for the rear in the meantime.

Thanks guys.
 
the tire that fell off was from using grease.i was asking if anti sieze could have a similar effect. ive never put anything on wheelstuds for fear of that happeneing. but it sounds like adding anti sieze is a common practice so it must be different.
 
i would use a high temp anti sieze. This would give you the same effect that grease will but will keep your wheels on and turning.

Good Luck and check often

Daniel
 
If you had two break..... you're going to have more break. That's always been my experience. Replace it while it's out. No sense doing only two. This is one of those situations where one can read the writing on the walls. I am with you, over build it, over do it, and definately over budget. When you do, you can enjoy a beer back at camp while you wait for your buddies to get back...... with a couple of broken studs.
 

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